A Safari in Namibia by Mark Davidson

Namibia is famous for the Skeleton Coast and the Salt Pans of Etosha. However I was on a twelve day trip, seeing some of the more remote areas of the country, rather than following in the footsteps of many other travellers to the region. This included going to see the Himba tribes of Northern Namibia, who coat their skins with a mixture of rancid butter and red ocra dirt to gain a vibrant red colour. I also visited Etosha National Park, home to many species of African wildlife.

Discovery

Arriving in the capital Windhoek, after an overnight flight from London, it was straight onto the tour. The mode of transport was a Land Rover ‘Discovery’ and we drove to our first location, a campsite in the Erongo Mountains. As a forerunner for the rest of the trip, the food on the first evening was succulent pieces of rump steak, cooked on an open barbecue. This would be the bench-mark for the grub during the next few days which would include all varieties of meat including zebra!

Armed with only a sleeping bag and bed-roll I was expecting a little less comfort than was provided for the trip. I’m used to camping in tough conditions and this seemed relatively comfortable in comparison, with each tent being home to camp beds, duvet, pillow and towel. Nothing like the real outdoors! There were even fully working toilets, with candles to provide the source of lighting. However, the real difference between this and staying outdoors in the United Kingdom is the chance of seeing wild animals.

Each day we drove to various campsites, even passing Brandberg Mountain, the highest point in Namibia.

Elephants and Ostriches

During one lunch time we were told there had been sightings of a small herd of elephants near the campsite, and we climbed into the vehicles for a five minute drive to see them drinking from one of the water supplies provided. As it was the dry season, there was always the chance to see this kind of activity when animals go in search of water. There was a certain degree of trepidation as we sat and watched. As this was no ‘English’ safari park the animals could easily be spooked at a moments notice and as a result, could charge towards us.

On a trip to Twyfelfontein, we were to see rock paintings that are between two and six thousand years old. However, it was a warm day, and climbing to get to the large boulders was hard work, with the local guide at pains to tell us they had been produced at least two millennia ago, with images of elephants and ostriches etc. for all to see. However, I imagined locals making a fast buck or two by touching up the original drawings to keep tourists happy!

One day we drove to Palmwag concession, where we went in search of wild Rhino. In this area of the country there are reportedly over one hundred and fifty black rhino roaming free. Despite many hours of searching and spotting tracks, I came away without any photographs.

During one evening we embarked on a game drive, hoping to see some of the nocturnal creatures that inhabit this part of Africa during the hours from dusk until dawn. Armed with an infra-red light to seek out animals in the darkness; pairs of eyes stared back at us. One exceptional sighting was of a Caracal, a lynx like cat.

The Great Outdoors

Stopping by the roadside for a bite to eat one lunchtime we were joined by an ever growing number of school children who took great delight in receiving sweets and leftovers from our lunch. They appeared from far and wide, almost as if they were armed with a satellite navigation system tracking our eating habits. One girl even retrieved a half eaten chicken leg from the litter bin, such was their eagerness to share in our food, and they guarded their prize with a willingness that a lion would have been proud of.

Despite being dressed for the great outdoors, I required extra assistance one day when one of my garments split and was in dire need of repair. I realised having a sewing kit wouldn’t suffice, and so I searched high and low for safety pins as a short term measure. However, when I was accosted by a lady selling a few tacky souvenirs I noticed she wore a few, holding her hair in place. I negotiated a price; problem being solved. With a certain irony, the very next day, when we were again ambushed by more souvenir sellers, they were only too keen to sell even more safety pins for a few Namibian rand!

The highlight of the entire holiday was visiting the Himba tribes. To see where they lived was a fascinating experience, and as they bred cattle and goats, it was interesting to see how they cohabited, side by side with the animals. The only downside when trying to take photographs was avoiding the droppings that go with the breeding of livestock.

As we concluded our visit, many of the women and children had congregated in a circle in the middle of the village to sell their gifts and souvenirs. Made from natural resources, including leather and bone, I purchased a few bracelets as a thank-you for letting me take their pictures. On my departure the local chief, surrounded by a number of his sons, helped me to attach a bracelet to my wrist - a great honour.

A Variety of Wildlife

The highlight of the game drives was the visit to Etosha National Park, which is about the size of Holland. At the gates there was a list of instructions with the do’s and don’ts of travelling through a game park. The most notable being not to get out of your vehicle for a toilet stop with lions and other predators in the area.

During our time in the park we saw a variety of wildlife including African Lions, Masai Giraffe, Hartman's Mountain Zebra, Burchell's Zebra, not to mention a solitary Spotted Hyena and a few Whitebacked Vultures who were dining on a carcass.

Upon arriving at the campsite in Etosha there were large numbers of safari vehicles as this seemed to be a focal point to see animals in the wild. This was especially the case at the local waterhole, complete with floodlights and park benches to watch a number of creatures, both during the day and evening including Black Rhino’s, Elephants, Giraffes and Zebra who drank in unison with each other, despite being wary of any predators. The only protection between man and beast was the wire fence to stop any animals getting into the campsite. We were told not to leave any shoes outside the tent at night as the jackals would steal them at a moments notice.

The journey culminated with a farewell dinner at a local restaurant in the capital, Windhoek where I ate some of the finest ‘game’ meat on offer including Ostrich, Zebra, Crocodile, Kudu and Springbok. It rounded off a fantastic trip to one of Africa’s best National Parks.

The only downside - a little more garlic required with the meat!

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