A Guide to Marrakech: The Nearest Orient by Mark Eveleigh
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The swaying date-palms and soaring blood-red walls of Marrakech were said to bring tears to the eyes even of tough Tuareg traders as their caravans arrived from the Sahara with cargos of salt, spices and slaves. Berber nomads came here to gaze in wonder at the crowds in the marketplace and, even today, the elders of remote mountain villages look on the seducing effect of Marrakech as the greatest threat to their young.
This dazzlingly exotic city with its wonderful food, comfortable climate and warm Marrakechi welcome is now captivating wayfarers and nomads from farther afield, and in greater numbers, than ever.
Marrakech is taking its rightful place as a favourite citybreak destination for sun-starved northerners and the immense square of the Djemaa el Fna, continues to live up to its reputation as ‘the greatest never-ending festival in Africa’.
As the afternoon sun begins to loosen its grip, the performance becomes increasingly animated. Jugglers, clowns and magicians prepare their props and a team of acrobats draws a crowd with a human pyramid. Contortionists and child boxers mark out their pitches alongside storytellers, traditional healers and henna-artists. Elderly water-sellers in scarlet-and-gold shake hand-bells and ululating chleuh dancers shimmy forward to block your path.
Although some of this workforce exists largely from the contributions of tourists (both foreign and Moroccan), the Djemaa el Fna is clearly still geared to the entertainment of the city’s more traditional occupants. Just a cursory glance at the mysteriously shrouded figures who wander through this crowd will convince you that the Djemaa is still the authentic Moroccan meeting place.
The evening prayer-call begins to wail and the shadow of the ancient Koutoubia minaret probes into the Djemaa el Fna like an accusing finger. Street lamps flicker to life and, within a few minutes, Africa’s greatest festival has transformed into the world’s biggest barbecue. Smoke flares around swinging lanterns, making the chain of orange-juice carts look like a wagon-train barricade.
Marrakech is a living museum with ever changing exhibits featuring the best of North African culture, cuisine, crafts, architecture, history, street-life and sheer magic. There is enough excitement and interest in the narrow alleyways of the souks and under the swaying fronds of the palmerie to last a lifetime, but during a stay here you find yourself constantly drawn to the eternal flame of the Djemaa el Fna.
It is not surprising that the Berber elders have such a fear of the intoxicating effects of the city that is known as the gateway to the desert. “Those who have laid eyes on Marrakech will never be able to forget it,” they say.
Marrakech's Must-See Sights
Djemaa el Fna: the famous ‘Place of the Dead’ is quite simply one of the most vibrant, colourful and unforgettable sights in the world. By day it is Africa’s greatest daily festival and by night the world’s biggest barbecue.
Jardin Agdal: a half-hour walk brings you to southern edge of the city and the lovely oasis of Jardin Agdal. With swaying date-palms, soaring storks and the Atlas Mountains reflected in the ornate lake, the palmerie seems like the perfect place to pass a hot desert afternoon.
Jardin Majorelle: owned by Yves Saint-Laurent, this lovely complex of ponds, fountains and bridges, liberally sprinkled with cactus and bamboo, is the most visited site in the modern Ville Nouvelle.
One of the best ways of becoming au fait with the cartography of old Marrakech (as if such a thing could ever be truly possible!) is to take a tour in a horse-drawn carriage. A whole fleet of these big green caleches line up beside the Koutoubia minaret…waiting either to shuttle tourists around or to drop local housewives home with the shopping.
Marrakech for Culture-Vultures
The Koutoubia minaret is the tallest and most impressive landmark in old Marrakech. Built in the 12th century it is also the oldest (and was the prototype of all other classic Moorish minarets). Unfortunately what must be a fantastic view from the top of the tower is denied to non-Muslims.
Most mosques are likewise only to be enjoyed from the outside (and this is difficult since they are invariably surrounded by back-street stalls and houses) but a couple of ‘must-sees’ in the old medina are the Ali Ben Youssef Medersa (largest theological college in the Maghreb) and the Koubba Ba’adiyn (pretty impressive for what was once believed to have been an ablutions block!).
The ruins of Palais el-Badi - once known as The Incomparable - and the sprawling complex of Palais de la Bahia (partly still in use by the royal family) are a short walk south of the Djemaa.
Whereas you are best wandering the souks on your own the cultural and religious side of Marrakech is definitely best appreciated with a knowledgeable guide. Official guides can be hired through the tourist office or from bigger hotels and you will certainly be approached by ‘hopefuls’ on the edge of the Djemaa. (The time it takes for a mint tea and a chat should be enough to figure out if it will be a happy relationship).
Shopping in Marrakech
Shopping is one of the main events of a stay in Marrakech. The fact that different areas of the souks are dedicated to different trades (coppersmiths, brassware, leather, jewellers and, not so long ago, slaves) and that there is so much competition to sell makes this a buyer’s market.
On the northern edge of Djemaa el Fna is the little two-storey market complex known as the potters’ souk (though this has now had an influx of traders selling everything from Berber swords to bootleg DVDs). This is the most accessible area of the souks and many visitors prefer to buy their big purchases here.
For real bargains – or real quality – head deeper into the souks to Rue Souk Smarrine. In the alleyways to the right of this narrow lane (which equates to a major highway in any other city) is the textile souk and to the left the leatherworkers souk. Leather goods are particularly good value and babouche slippers (the slipper souk is at the end of the lane) are favourite souvenirs.
On Ave Mohammed V, in the new town, there are several fixed-price handicraft stores for those who feel uncomfortable about haggling…or for those who want to research the ceiling price of some prized artefact that they can hunt down later in the souks.
Entertainment
Hammam: dedicate part of one afternoon to the wash and scrub-up of your life. Many inhabitants of the medina use the local hammam simply as daily their bathhouse but it is also a social venue and a wonderful place to relax. Like much in Marrakech it is not to be hurried. Try Bain Majorelle (Rouidate 3 No. 57, Marrakech).
Rooftop terraces: you could be forgiven for thinking that commerce and social life in Marrakech is fuelled entirely by mint tea. You will be offered countless glasses of this sweet, lip-tinglingly refreshing drink during your visit but, at least once, make a detour to one of the rooftop terraces above Djemaa.
As in most Moroccan cities there are very few places that serve alcohol in Marrakech’s old town. Medina Bar or the Café Maure cocktail bar in the Marrakech Club Med are the closest options for a pre-dinner drink before you find a table in Djemaa.
Top Tips for Marrakech
Many visitors choose to hire a guide but one of the great joys of Marrakech is to spend a day or two simply wandering - almost always hopelessly lost - through the tangle of souks and down towards the old tanneries.
For earlier generations of travellers there was little possibility of finding good quality traditional lodgings in the old medina. Now there are over a hundred fully-restored riads (noble palaces) in the old town and, with their sunny roof-terraces, tropical garden patios and exotic furnishings, they can provide everything from simple, homely comfort to the sort of luxury that is designed to make you feel like one of the central characters in 1001 Nights.
Haggling is all part of shopping in Morocco and, if done with humour (and several glasses of mint tea), is enjoyable for both participants. A good rule of thumb is to offer roughly 30% of the initial price and be prepared to pay half.
Eating Out
A trip to Marrakech is guaranteed to be a culinary adventure. Dining on the Djemaa el Fna is one of the most unforgettable eating experiences that the world has to offer. There is plenty to tempt less adventurous souls (chicken and chips or fantastic lamb kebabs and hot bread – straight from the ovens under the hammam) but should you be out for a challenge you might find your match in the huge bowls of spicy snails or at the stalls serving boiled sheep brains.
Marrakech also has a fantastic selection of western style (frequently French) restaurants and the majority of riads also offer delicious, home-cooked Moroccan fare.
Cheap Eats
By night Africa’s greatest never-ending festival becomes the world’s biggest barbecue as the Djemaa el Fna is taken over by dozens of groaning tables, loaded with couscous, fish, chicken, harirah (meat and egg soup), vegetables, rice, tajine stew, fresh bread and succulent kebabs. Because the cooking is so visible the standards of cleanliness are often higher than in many restaurant kitchens and the most common stomach complaint is likely to be from over-eating.
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