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Shropshire is a county of sparkling facets and surprises. The south-east corner is a land of emerald and sandstone hues and where, at Ironbridge Gorge, two centuries ago, events occurred which changed all our lives.

Ironbridge is fascinating. A handful of museums bring alive a vital page of British history. Everyone should visit the Ironbridge Gorge Museums, to relive the eventful story of the birth of the Industrial Revolution. Nature provided the essential raw materials. The River Severn, at the end of the Ice Age, forced a way through the northern tip of Wenlock Edge, exposing layers of limestone, coal, ironstone and clay. The river provided water, waterpower and a convenient means of transport. Man, in the shape of Abraham Darby, born in 1678 at Dudley, was the critical catalyst; he was the first, in 1709, to master the science of smelting iron with coke, rather than costly charcoal. Throughout the decades that followed there was a series of firsts: cast iron rails, iron wheels, steam cylinders, steam locomotives, iron boats and, most famously, the still proud and erect first iron bridge (see, too, the unusual suspension bridge further downstream).

Start at the Museum of the Gorge where an eight-minute video is an excellent introduction. Look out for a display of Captain Matthew Webb memorabilia; born locally 150 years ago, he was the first, in 1875, to swim the English Channel. Webb's doctor father was renowned for his reports on the hideous conditions in the Ironbridge mines and iron industries; they formed the basis of the ‘Shaftesbury Acts’. (Pub lunch? Try the super Malthouse, near the museum.)

Next the Museum of Iron, which explains the Darby family's inventive genius. The museum shows, too, how the community lived and worked in Coalbrookdale - pulling no punches on the grim conditions; and displays many of the amazingly varied products made from cast iron. See also the nearby Darby homes where the ironmasters lived in some style.

Now to the Coalport Museum where some of the world's most beautiful porcelain was once made, amply demonstrated by stunning displays. Across the river is Jackfield, once the site of the world's largest tile manufacturer; there are scores of eye-opening artistic delights. Visit, too, the Great Rock Sandwich exhibition explaining the gorge's unique geology.

Finally, finish the day at Blists Hill, a working Victorian town with rebuilt cottages, workshops, businesses, shops and varying crafts. The 30 or so men and women working there are dressed in the clothes of the time. Many are skilled craftsmen and women. Among the wares you can buy are plaster designs from George Padmore; wrought iron goods from blacksmith Graham Collis; bonnets, aprons and christening gowns from Gwen Phillips; and cast iron products from a jobbing foundry.

To see something of Shropshire’s more seductive charms, start at Badger, five miles north-east of Bridgnorth. A picture postcard thatched cottage snoozes besides one of two pools. St. Giles is a tiny sandstone church; the tower could be 12th century. More recent is the Dix Memorial Window and the words of Dr. Margaret Dix: "Within the ancient church’s quiet I feel the touch of heaven."

Two hundred yards to the south-west a path leads down to Badger Dingle, refreshing natural tonic. You’ll find a 10-metre high cascade; a pool and stream; to the east a 10-minute walk along the north bank of the pool and past terracotta cliffs, is The Bird House, recently restored by English Heritage; and, to the west, a shorter walk leads you to The Temple, where a bench awaits you in a cliff-face hollow.
At Worfield, walk the Main Street. Start at the Davenport Arms (The Dog); here Mike Handley brews his own five cracking beers (open 7.00 weekends, lunchtimes). Walk north to St. Peter’s, a large sandstone church with a pencil-tip spire. (Read the Visitor's Book: planned church changes are liked!) Admire the handsome Jacobean house, Lower Hall across the way; and finish your stroll near the wandering River Worfe.

Now to Claverley. On the way admire Ludstone Hall, to the north-east of the village; built in 1607 the moated manor house, with a lake across the lane, is an appealing vista. Descend to Claverley past sandstone walls and park at the Bull Ring. All Saints Church, more sandstone, has remarkable wall paintings, some dating from the early 13th century; also noteworthy are two ancient fonts, the alabaster tomb of the three Brokes and stained glass windows.

I've loved Bridgnorth since my first visit 47 years ago. Low Town straddles the Severn. You can reach High Town in one of three ways: drive up the road to the west; walk one of seven sets of ancient steps and alleys on the east side; or use the 108-year-old Castle Cliff Railway, which makes a steep 111ft ascent from a riverside station.

Once in High Town don't miss Castle Walk with extensive views of the Severn, Low Town and Hermitage Hill across the valley. See the Pisa-like tower, all that remains of a once important Norman castle. East Castle Street has some handsome properties and St. Leonard's Close, reminiscent of cathedral closes, also has many good-looking old cottages and houses.

Now an absolute must. Don't miss the exuberant and indefatigable Natalie Hodgson, now 88, at her Astley Abbotts House, two miles north of Bridgnorth. Her five-acre garden has some superb cedars and redwoods. The fragrant surprise however is her four-acre hillside lavender garden; you can PYO from a range of varieties (July 6 to August 30; 10-5). If time permits, enjoy her garden across the road; have tea and a slice of cake at the hilltop cafe (where there are toilet facilities and ample car parking space) but, best of all, have a natter with full-of-life Natalie - and ask about her next project (the clue words are Hall of the Forest).

Finish at Much Wenlock, a down-to-earth treasure with none of the pretentiousness of Cotswold towns. Famed for its ancient priory ruins I feel the evocative Market Square and adjoining High Street also deserve your time. Seek out several ancient timbered houses and, among many eye-opener shops and galleries, the following delights: Peter Cotterill's Wenlock Fine Art - London quality but not its prices; Meabh Warburton's Twenty Twenty -contemporary applied arts including ceramics, jewellery and wood; Paddy Ryan's legendary butchers shop; Perce Muscutt's Wenlock Books (new and second hand) housed in a gorgeous timber-framed house and The Wen Lock Collection with Moorcroft pottery and marvellous Acton Chase reproduction furniture.
Depending on your timetable you can devote a few hours or a whole day to a treat adored by adults and children alike: the privately-owned Severn Valley Railway, where steam locomotives are the exciting magnet. Opened in 1862, the 16 mile line from Bridgnorth to Kidderminster is a magnificent scenic treat (timetable details tel: + 44 (0)800 600 900).

Three Shropshire stations provide a variety of riverside pleasures and walks. Hampton Loade has a hand-drawn pedestrian river ferry; the Country Park Halt (ask the guard to stop the train) provides access to the 180-acre Severn Valley Country Park - on both sides of the river and with a connecting bridge and Highley, with its riverside Ship Inn and a 500-yard climb to the unusual Pit Wheel Memorial at the restored Highley Mine Site.

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