Europe > Germany > North Rhine-Westphalia > Cologne > Articles > Cologne Dawn 'till Dusk

Cologne is one of central Europe's most captivating cities - something which may come as a surprise to seasoned city breakers. It's not an immediately obvious choice for a weekend away, yet it offers the ideal combination of an attractive riverside setting and enchanting historical centre, as well as some of the best culture and nightlife in Germany.

The Romans were the first to recognise the area's potential, arriving in 33 BC and founding what was to become Germany's most important city for many centuries. Today it retains much of its grandeur, boasting the country's most visited monument, the spectacular cathedral, one of the largest gothic structures ever built. Even more fascinating is Cologne's rich cultural scene - it is seen as Germany's cultural heart, with an astounding collection of superb museums and art galleries.

But perhaps the most endearing feature of the city is its people, renowned for their sharp sense of humour and wicked thirst for fun, traits which culminate in the yearly Carnival, one of Europe's biggest street parties. But the locals' perennial lust for life can be experienced year-round in the largest number of restaurants, bars and clubs per capita in the country - all centred upon on the city's world-famous Kšlsch beer.

During the Day...

Shopping
The busiest shopping area is the pedestrianised Hohe Strasse, near the cathedral, which leads onto Schildergasse. This is the city's mainstream shopping area, offering a mix of clothes shops - including Gap, H&M and C&A - and department stores. At weekends the streets are lined with buskers and performance artists, and the centre of Schildergasse is filled with market stalls selling jewellery and fruit and veg.

Cologne's trendiest street is Ehrenstrasse, popular with students and crammed with eclectic shops. You'll find anything from retro jeans to kitsch furniture, as well as cutting-edge designer items. Squeezed between the shops are a handful of trendy cafes and bars, always full of students and shoppers.

Although no longer terribly fashionable, a resolutely popular souvenir is the city's namesake, a bottle of Eau de Cologne - or Kšlnisch Wasser. The best-known brand is 4711, named after the house number where it was invented, and sold today at the 4711 store on the corner of Schwertnergasse and Glockengasse. The distinctive blue-labelled bottles are pretty enough, although the scent is something of an acquired taste.

Art
Museum Ludwig is perhaps Germany's finest collection of modern art. There is an excellent selection of German Expressionism including pieces by Otto Dix and Max Ernst, as well as an impressive array of Picassos, and Pop Art greats such as Andy Warhol and Jasper Johns. The Wallraf-Richartz-Museum, housed in a strikingly modern cube, focuses on the fifteenth-century Cologne school, ranking as the best collection of period art in the country. There is also a good Impressionist section, featuring pieces by Renoir, Monet and Van Gogh.

For an insight to the life and art of socialist Kšthe Kollwitz, visit the Kšthe Kollwitz Museum which houses a collection of her sculptures and monochrome graphics. Kollwitz was one of Germany's most important artists, her exceptionally insightful prints and sculptures focussing on themes of human suffering - war, death, hunger and poverty.

Culture
Highlight of the city is the spectacular Dom, the city cathedral, one of the largest Gothic buildings ever constructed. The spires were the tallest structures in the world until the erection of the Eiffel Tower, and they continue to dominate the city's skyline. The arduous climb to the top of the spires is worth it for the superb views over the city.

Next to the Dom is the Ršmisch-Germanisches Museum, one of Germany's most important archaeological centres. Cologne was once an important Roman trading centre, and many of the Rhineland area's finest Roman findings are housed here. There are interesting collections of sculpture, glass and jewellery, but the highlight is the Dionysus Mosaic, covering almost 70 square metres.

The Schokolade Museum may not count as a cultural gem, but it is one of the city's most popular attractions. As well as displays on the history and science of chocolate-making, the museum houses a working chocolate factory, highlight of which is a fountain oozing melted milk chocolate. Visitors are offered free tastings - be prepared for a scrum.

During the Night...

Eating & Drinking
Cologne crams over three thousand restaurants, bars and breweries into its centre - the highest number per capita in Germany. The most popular area for evening meals and bar-hopping is just south of the cathedral, around the Gross St Martin in the Altstadt, an attractive cobbled maze lined with bars and restaurants. Younger and more fashionable is the student quarter around Zÿlpicher Strasse, a ten-minute walk to the west. Here the streets are packed with cosy cafŽs, cheap restaurants and lively bars. Similarly hip is the Belgisches Viertel, just south of here.

A prevalent feature is the city's unique beer, Kšlsch, a light and flavoursome beer served in a thin glass known as a Stange. The best place to try it is in one of the many breweries, or Brauhssuser - old-fashioned beer halls serving vast portions of hearty German fare.

One of the better beerhalls is Brauhaus Sion, near the cathedral. Despite its location, it is frequented mainly by locals, although expect tour groups during the day. The menu focuses on various types of sausage - house speciality is Blutwurst, much like black pudding - and pork knuckles, delicious fall-off-the-bone meat served with Sauerkraut. A cosy alternative is Das Gaffel Haus on Alter Markt, one of the most genuine old-style restaurants in Cologne. Service is as brisk and unsmiling as in most beerhalls, but the food is excellent. Worth trying is the Rhineland favourite known as Sauerbraten, marinated beef served with dumplings, or Reibekuchen, potato fritters served with a variety of toppings.

Cologne also boasts its fair share of sophisticated eateries, thanks to its multicultural population. The Alstadt and the riverfront have the widest selection of international restaurants. To escape the tourists however, head to the Belgisches Viertel and the student area around Zulpicher Strasse, where trendy bars vie for space with good-value Italian, Turkish and vegetarian restaurants.

Entertainment
The annual highlight is Carnival, one of the biggest and wildest street parties in Europe. Starting on the Thursday before Lent, the city comes to a standstill for four days as the entire population - and over 1 million visitors - take to the streets for processions, costume balls and drunken revelry.

More sedate is the Kšln Philarmonie, the heart of Cologne's classical music scene, with an auditorium holding two thousand spectators and presenting world-famous orchestras, chamber ensembles and choirs. Equally impressive is the Opera House, a modern building offering a full repertoire of classic favourites and contemporary operas. For full-on pop and rock concerts, there's the Kšlnarena, a huge, functional stadium hosting a wide range of large-scale gigs and sports events.

After Hours
The Brauhssuser are Cologne's busiest evening venues, but there is also a vibrant clubbing and bar scene. A popular place to start an evening is at the Biermseum in the Altstadt, a cosy bar serving eighteen different beers on tap. There are a number of fashionable clubs in the Belgisches Viertel, including Blue Note on BrŸsseler Strasse which attracts a young studenty crowd and plays mostly drum 'n' bass and hip-hop. Filmdose on Zÿlpicher Strasse is a pleasant bar with a tiny cabaret stage and English film viewings. The main techno venue is H90 on Hohenzollernring, but for top-quality jazz head to Papa Joe's Klimperkasten on Alter Markt, a deservedly popular Altstadt bar with twenties décor and live music most nights.

In the know...

Is it you?
Cologne is an ideal destination for a weekend city break, offering a good mix of history, culture and lively nightlife. While couples or groups of friends will get the most out of the city, it's also a good destination for families with plenty of attractions and a bustling riverside setting to keep children entertained.

When to go?
As a central European city, Cologne has a fairly temperate climate, but temperatures plummet to below zero over Christmas. Summer can get hot with temperature reaching 30 degrees. The town seems to really come to life in June and July, when the riverside area gets packed with sunbathers, and cafes and bars spill out onto the cobbled streets of the Altstadt. Expect a fair amount of rain in autumn and spring, and if you're planning on visiting during Carnival, bear in mind that hotels get booked up months in advance.

Something extra
One of the best times to visit Cologne is in December, when the city's squares are taken over by Christmas Markets. There are four main markets, the biggest of which is held in front of the cathedral, with over 160 stalls selling crafts, souvenirs, food and GlŸhwein - spiced, mulled wine. Perhaps the prettiest market is held on Alter Markt, the historical cobbled square in the heart of the old city. When covered with a sprinkling of snow, it is absurdly picturesque.

Articles

• More from Francisca Kellett