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When James Bond raced down from the summit of the Schilthorn, Blofeld’s pursuing gunmen sniping at his ski tails, he probably didn’t appreciate he was reluctantly participating in a Swiss tradition that has just celebrated its 60th anniversary.

Each January, the sleepy Swiss village of Mürren swells to capacity as skiers from around the world join locals to race the famous "Inferno" downhill. Blasting 15km from the 2,970 m Schilthorn to Lauterbrunnen in the valley floor, the event has become so popular it is now the world’s largest ski event. With racing starting early and competitors setting off just seconds apart, the entry has to be limited to 1,800 to protect late runners from having to compete in dusk gloom.

Things have moved on a little since the first race in 1928 when competitors climbed up the Schilthorn on foot and all started together, on the mark of one of the competitors. But only a little. The Inferno is the world’s oldest ski race and is still run with minimal control gates or rules (save that taking short cuts or moving the net fencing will result in a lifetime ban!).

Despite the race’s renown, the Inferno is arguably better known for its magnificent starting point, the Piz Gloria revolving restaurant. This was the setting for many scenes from the James Bond film "On Her Majesty’s Secret Service", including the immortal ski chase filmed on the steep face just below the summit. The Piz Gloria provides unencumbered 360 degree views of the surrounding peaks, most breathtakingly the Eiger, Mönch and the in-your-face Jungfrau.

Tiny Mürren would barely register from this altitude, despite itself being at a respectable 1,650 m. Perched above a steep escarpment, its 350 residents’ only access to the outside world is by cable car or train. Even during the day the feeling of isolation is palpable. Once the last transport has departed, the feeling of peace and isolation is intense.

I’m at the Piz Gloria tucking into the "James Bond breakfast" early on race morning. The sun has not yet risen and we tower high above the clouds which shroud the village and valley far below. Perhaps distracted by the majesty of my surroundings, I learn the hard way rule number one about revolving restaurants - remember which parts revolve! I place my pack on the window ledge and am baffled by its subsequent disappearance, an embarrassment made worse by the fact I’m sharing a table with Inferno legend and four-time race winner Kurt Huggler. Another fellow breakfaster chuckles that it will only take an hour for what goes around to come around again. I hastily make my exit and search for Frank, my guide.

Frank, the son of the local butcher, hails from an Inferno dynasty and is himself a former winner. He has just set a disappointing time this morning but is happy to take me down the mountain.

Mürren is sometimes described as a one-run resort. This is harsh although any resort would gladly exchange a fistful of standard-issue pistes for the one run in question. The descent of the Schilthorn is unquestionably one of the finest runs in the Alps, for its length (7.5 km down to Mürren), variety and jaw-dropping views.

With an almost disappointing lack of ceremony I find myself on the famous piste I have dreamt about skiing for so long, for the fearsome challenge of its steep plunges as much as its movie celebrity. The mountain throws you a steep, narrow challenge almost immediately, followed by a long, inviting schuss. Glorious for recreational skiers, this is the fastest section of the Inferno course where racers can reach speeds of 110 km/hr with ease. Sections of varying gradient, width and tightness of turn follow, leading to the notorious "Kanonenrohr" - a steep, narrow gully with a fiendishly sharp turn at its end.

We’ve seen some competitors struggle for control, but so far no fallers. But carnage erupts at the exit from the Kanonenrohr. First, an out-of-control racer misjudges the abrupt turn onto the next steep plunge and crashes, losing a ski at the top and firing the other like a torpedo straight to the bottom of the slope. No sooner has Frank recovered the uphill ski than he turns aghast to see another bad crash and a second guided missile just brushing past him. We’re still comforting the stricken racer when two more competitors crash on the opposite side of the piste, sending up a huge spray of snow. We’re soon wondering whether it’s safe to stand, let alone compete, on this section of mountain. Happily, none of the fallers is badly hurt. They gather their thoughts and equipment and continue on the rest of the journey downhill - appropriately, shaken but not deterred.

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