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Having not ridden for several years I was relieved as well as a little amused when our first horse-related duty on arriving at Wild Rose Ranch was to watch a video entitled 'Which end does the hay go in?' As we watched the video Barry, one of our hosts, emphasised to us the importance of the 'three Cs' he wants all guests to experience during their stay: comfort, confidence and control.

This thorough introduction sums up the approach of ranch owners Shannon Langley and Barry Rogers and their emphasis on safety. After the video it’s off to the corral to be matched with our horses and fitted to our saddles. Then we’ll have the chance to demonstrate our mastery of basic manoeuvres described in the video.

But first things first. Any guests lacking suitable attire are welcome to take their pick, under Barry’s direction, from a wardrobe of stetsons and cowboy boots. This is western riding after all, although jodhpurs and hard hats are equally welcome.

Wild Rose Ranch nestles in a gently sloping valley along the banks of Wolf Creek, on the warmer western side of the Rocky Mountains. Willow trees line the narrow stream. Forests of fir, pine and spruce trees enclose the ranch’s paddocks and meadows in every direction. Lonely lakes dot the landscape. Following the creek eastwards from the ranch, it widens into a large but shallow wetland whose clear water is splashed with islands of lily pads and dense clusters of cat tails. This is a haven for many species of birds and other wildlife. Forest then replaces meadow, beyond which the snow-capped peaks of the Rockies rise sharply.

The ranch is surrounded by 12,000 acres of this pristine riding territory. This is an isolated rural setting rather than true wilderness. However, while at the ranch and on rides, it’s often not possible to tell the difference.

The ranch’s main lodge is a comfortable log cabin comprising a guests’ living and dining area. A large terrace with sun loungers and barbecue is capped by glorious views over the creek, paddocks and forest. The main lodge houses two guest rooms and close by are two separate guest cabins, including a romantic cabin for two. A focal point, particularly post-riding, is a four-person outdoor hot tub. A local masseuse makes regular visits to soothe the seriously sore and discomforted.

Total guest capacity is only 12. The ranch’s small size allows great flexibility in activities. Guests can tailor their own itineraries. As if to emphasise the point, after watching the introductory video Barry asks each guest what they would most like to do and experience during their stay. Half day rides, full day rides, riding tuition, barrel racing, fishing, trekking and whitewater rafting can all readily be incorporated. And within a friendly and informal atmosphere not always found at riding establishments.

The intimate size, beautiful setting and tranquil atmosphere make Wild Rose popular for romantic breaks, as was the case during my visit when my riding companions were a honeymoon couple.

Shannon and Barry select horses for the ranch based first and foremost on their personalities. They want mounts to be sociable and vice-free before they’ll even bother to check their riding paces. Looking at the 20 horses in the paddock, many of which are stretched out lazily on their sides or rolling playfully, they seem very content. Approaching the paddock rails is certain to attract an inquisitive cluster of friendly muzzles.

Barry allocates Apache to me. The name doesn’t suggest steadiness as one of the horse’s main qualities but Apache turns out to be sweet-natured and responsive.

Wild Rose caters to riders of all standards. Riding groups are no larger than four to six and a wrangler accompanies each group. Guests have ranged from complete novices to groups of competition riders.

The riding terrain comprises over 100 miles of trails as well as endless opportunities for “bush whacking” - exploring off trail. Shannon and Barry discourage fast riding on trails, preferring to confine speed to the outdoor arena where guests can also receive tuition or try their hand at barrel racing.

The slow pace on the trails at first seems strange given how much ground there is to cover. But the dense forests and uneven, sometimes steep, ground often don’t lend themselves to progress at faster than a walk. With the terrain often providing a considerable degree of challenge, many riders don’t feel the need to add speed as well.

Galloping across the trails also risks missing much of the point of riding in this country - to see and soak up the landscape. To watch the changing moods of the quintessential Rockies peaks. To smell the freshness of the pine forests. To hear the chorus of birds. To catch sight of the abundant wildlife.

Herds of elk regularly invade the paddocks of the Wild Rose horses. They usually co-exist happily enough although there have on occasions been boisterous disagreements over grazing rights. The land around the ranch is a protected wintering area for elk, deer and bighorn sheep. Elusive moose and black bears also live here, as do less frequently seen grizzly bears.

Next morning I ride out with newly-weds Terry and Anne, and our wrangler Dan. We ride along Wolf Creek towards an abandoned log cabin now used only by passing hunters. As we approach the cabin, Dan sights a lone moose in the distance. We approach cautiously as moose can be unpredictable but this large female simply stands and watches us. We stop and photograph this rare sight as quietly as possible. The moose is totally unbothered and calmly splashes her way through the wetland.

We turn off the trail into the forest and climb to higher ground. We follow a steep mountain track, weave between trees and occasionally have to duck beneath overhanging branches. The horses are reassuringly sure-footed.

We reach a clearing at the crest of a ridge and are rewarded with fabulous views across the valley. Far below us we can just about make out the tiny ranch. In the distance are the white trails of Kimberley’s ski mountain. Dan points out some pine trees whose bark smells of vanilla essence. We have to ride close to the trees and hold our horses there to share the experience, which is good practice for our riding skills.

We dismount at intervals to stretch our legs and take photographs. On longer rides we carry our lunches in our saddlebags but on this half-day ride we carry only our cameras and bottles of water. Continuing through the forest we disturb a pair of wild turkeys which scuttle away ungainly. Riding back towards the ranch, we sight a lone elk not far below us in the valley which seems to hear our arrival but isn’t sure where or what we are.

Post-riding meals are always a delight but dinner here is made particularly enjoyable by being preceded by delicious appetisers served with very drinkable home-made wines.

After dinner and some fly casting tuition from Barry, Dan and I take a canoe out for a paddle on the wetland. The clear water is so shallow we don’t always have to paddle but can instead push ourselves along. Occasionally we have to clear paths between the lilies and cat tails, being careful not to beach the canoe. The evening is totally still. Birds chatter noisily. Many red-spotted blackbirds perch on small islands and parade their bright colours to us. We disturb some ducks and geese which flap away with a commotion of splashes as we get near. A large fish, we suspect a trout, violently slaps the still surface and I regret not bringing along one of the rods.

We float as quietly as possible to a distant point in the wetland where we wait in silence in the hope of seeing some big game. Maybe the moose? Maybe a bear? I excitedly see many bears which disappointingly turn out to be dark tree stumps. Maybe I unwittingly saw many tree stumps which were in fact bears?

Nothing large stirs here tonight except for the dependable evening elk in one of the horse paddocks. But as we watch, floating silently through that untouched stillness, a soft peach-hued light casts its fading glow against the towering mountain peaks. That more than makes up for the lack of a grizzly bear. It’s almost spiritual. I’ve just proved to myself that certain tranquil experiences can be just as thrilling as a thundering gallop.

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