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Jordan still has tourist kudos. Tell your friends you're going there, and likely as not they will exclaim "Jordan!" in that tone that's somewhere between surprise and trying to remember where the hell it is. OK, it's not in the same league as Uzbekistan or Chad as a Class-A Unusual Destination; but it still carries a small charge of Arabian adventure and desert mystery.

Take a line from the Jordan River to the Red Sea. To the left of this is Israel and the West Bank; to the right is the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Landlocked apart from a small Red Sea foothold around the resort of Aqaba, Jordan looks - on the map - as if it had been doodled by a bored cartographer. And in a way, it was: Transjordan, as it was originally called, began life as a historical accident, one of two British protectorates in the Middle East, split off from Greater Syria in a diplomatic tug-of-war with France.

The words "Middle East" tend to alarm the more sensitive tourist but, compared to parts of New York, Jordan is Switzerland. One of the reasons King Hussein reigned so long (46 years) was that, most of the time, he managed both to support Arab unity and stay friends with the West. Israel respects Jordan and the border between the two countries is not in dispute but this doesn't prevent JordanÕs tourist industry from feeling the pinch every time the Palestinian conflict flares up. Major hotel discounts can often be found at these times.

Petra: Most tourists go to Jordan to see Petra - and rightly so, as the Lost City of the Nabateans is one of the most extraordinary archeological sites anywhere in the world. But with around 500 rock-hewn tombs spread over an area of 264 sq. km., the Petra Archeological Park is huge and, although you can cover all the main sights in a day, a two-day ticket allows you to explore the site at a fairly relaxed pace.

In the hotter months, make the most of the early morning and evening, when the sun is less punishing and when the light on the striated, rose-red rocks is at its most spectacular. Whatever you do, don't miss seeing the High Places sacrificial altar at dawn and the Monastery, a monumental temple in a high, isolated cirque of sand and rocks, which blazes gold in the light of the evening sun. Take plenty of water, sunblock and a hat. Entrance fee: One day (20JD); 2 days (25JD); the site's open from 6am.

Jerash: All Jordan's other sights come well behind Petra in terms of sheer, jaw-dropping impact; but so do most things. Next on most people's must-see list is Roman city of Jerash which, with its rows of skewed Corinthian columns, is undeniably impressive. However its setting - on the edge of the sprawling, concrete modern town - does dilute the magic.

Wadi Rum: South of Petra, Wadi Rum is the country's other big tourist draw, largely because of T.E. Lawrence, aka Lawrence of Arabia. But to include this majestic desert rockscape, this cathedral of nature, in a hit-and-run package itinerary is to miss the point completely. Wadi Rum needs time and solitude and at least one night under the stars. Overnight tours by camel (recommended) or four-wheel drive, with meals and accommodation in a Bedouin tent, can be arranged with specialist tour operators or the Wadi Rum Resthouse. Alternatively, buy Tony Howard's Treks and Climbs in Wadi Rum (Cicerone Press) and do it yourself.

Qasr Amra: My own favourite Jordanian site outside of Petra is Qasr Amra, one of the "desert castles" that emerge from the featureless expanse of sand and rock east of Amman. Built by the fun-loving Umayyad dynasty in the 8th century, this Arab hunting lodge and baths complex - decorated with playful frescoes - is one of the few examples of non-religious, representational early Islamic art to have survived anywhere.

The Dead Sea: Finally, nobody should miss the experience of floating in the Dead Sea. Lying on your back reading a newspaper is the classic trick; but floating upright - head and shoulders clear of the water - is equally impressive. Unless you're at one of the upmarket resorts that line the shore, such as the Movenpick Dead Sea Resort & Spa, your best option is to head for the government-owned Dead Sea Resthouse, pay the 2.5JD entrance fee, and make straight for the beach. Don't jump in just anywhere though: with such corrosively saline water, access to a shower is essential. Not far away from here is the town of Madaba with its marvelous early Christian mosaics: the most delightful example are the mythological scenes in the Hippolytus Hall.

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