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The key thing that differentiates Buenos Aires from Paris (the two often seem indistinguishable) is tango. You'll find it everywhere - in late-night cafes and bars, on the streets, featured on postcards and shop signs, its distinctive rhythms blaring from CD shops. As an entre to this most theatrical of dances, head for the Sunday morning antiques market in the bohemian barrio of San Telmo, where dancers perform in front of Cafe Dorrego on Plaza Dorrego. Accompanied by crackling tapes of the old-time greats - D'Arienzo or Canaro - a couple will skim across the floor, legs intertwining at lightning speed, he glossed-haired and severe, she gracefully gazelle-like in satin. If you're misguided enough to think you can do it too, go to Confiteria Ideal, Suipacha 384 (tel +54 1 4326 1515), to an afternoon milonga - which is both an uptempo style of tango and a participatory event where you can take lessons. Personally, I'd rather take a siesta before heading out into the long night.

Catch a show of Moulin Rouge proportions at Seor Tango, Vieytes 1655 (tel +54 1 4303 0231) or El Viejo Almacn, Avenida Independencia and Balcarce (tel 4307 6689), or settle into one of numerous cabaret bars reminiscent of 1930s Berlin or Paris. At intimate Bar Sur, Estados Unidos 299 (tel + 54 1 4362 6086), the acts - tango torch singers d'un certain age, dancers, musicians - keep on coming from 8pm till 3 or 4 in the morning. In between, you'll be whisked on to the floor by the principal dancers. Wind up at the grand old Cafe Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo 825 (tel +54 1 4342 4328), where you can enjoy the stage action while slurping the most delicious, moussey hot chocolate.

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