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Articles
If your idea of surfing involves sitting in front of a cathode ray tube, you could do your body and soul a few favours by flicking the ‘off’ button, getting up off the sofa and heading to the coast to try the real thing instead.
Of course, you might justifiably ask why anyone would want to surf the cold, grey waters of the British Isles, but the surf ain’t always cold and grey - May to October it’s just as likely to be bright and blue, and with a good wetsuit it’ll even feel warm-ish.
The search for waves will take you to some of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in Europe (and if you don’t believe that, try a ‘surfari’ to North West Scotland or Pembrokeshire, then reconsider). Add to that improved fitness from the full-on aerobic work out of paddling out through the waves, scrambling to your feet, riding the curl and being tumbled underwater by the inevitable wipeouts, and there are two good reasons to surf in the UK for a start - and that’s before you even consider the fun you’ll have.
But in order to make the most of Britain’s fickle waves, you need to know where to go and when. All committed surfers can read an Atlantic weather chart and predict what the surf will be like days in advance, but if that’s all too much trouble for you there are several websites and phone numbers you can dial up for a surf check. Once you know there’s surf on the way, here are five of the best spots to head for whether you’re a complete beginner or the Silver Surfer:
NEWQUAY
Crammed to the gills with egos and wannabes, and undoubtedly the most overhyped surf spot on the planet, Newquay is still a good place to try surfing simply because it has everything you need, from surf schools, board hire and surf shops by the truckload, to several beaches which pick up swells from most directions, thus giving this self-styled Surf City some of the most consistent waves in Britain.
The most favoured beach for beginners is Fistral, the venue past and present for international surf contests, but other popular beaches include Towan, Great Western and the superbly-named Lusty Glaze.
The surf is always crowded, you’ll see a very high standard of surfing as some of Britain’s best surfers are based in Newquay, and you’ll also get to see the British surf scene at its most vibrant (or ridiculous, depending on your age and point of view).
Surf schools include West Coast Surfari tel: +44 (0)1637 876083 and Dolphin Surf School tel: +44 (0)7974 629381. There is no end of cafes close to the beaches and in the town, and popular surfer’s pubs in Newquay include the Red Lion above Towan and the Sailor’s Arms in Fore Street. If the surf isn’t thrilling enough for you, there’s shark fishing - yet another attempt by the locals to try and convince you that this is anywhere but Britain.
LLANGENITH, GOWER PENINSULA
A huge, golden sand beach that attracts everyone from complete beginners to experts. There’s a surf school at the beach (the village of Llangennith is about half a mile inland) and the local surf shop is run by Welsh surf legend and former international surf competitor Pete Jones (‘PJ’).
Llangennith is little like a mellow, country-cousin version of Fistral. It’s less crowded, with a wide variety of surfers vying for the waves, and in general there’s quite a friendly, laid-back atmosphere. The place seems to be particularly popular with student-types, especially during term time when they pile up here from nearby Swansea University.
The beach is ideal for novice surfers when the waves aren’t too big, but on larger swells there are endless lines of white water to paddle out through which even the fittest of surfers can have trouble negotiating. However, in these conditions one of the other beaches on the Gower will have more manageable waves.
The Welsh Surfing Federation Surf School tel: +44 (0)1792 386426 www.surfwsf@aol.com operates from Llangennith. The King’s Head in the village has good food and beer, and there’s a café and shop at Hillend Caravan Park above the beach. Take time out from the waves to walk to the top of Rhossili Downs above the beach, from where there are great views of much of South Wales and across the Bristol Channel to Devon and Somerset.
SALTBURN, CLEVELAND
The grey - ok, steel blue - waters of the North Sea are not the first place that comes to mind when you think of surfing, but the coast around the ‘toy town’ village of Saltburn has some of the best and most challenging surf in Britain.
The beach has waves which are ideal for beginners and intermediates, breaking to the right of the old Victorian pier, whilst further south along the beach are a couple of more powerful breaks best left to more experienced surfers.
Travel north or south of Saltburn and you’ll find some of the best reef and point breaks in the country, but true to the tradition of the sport these ‘secret’ spots can’t be mentioned here otherwise the locals will ensure I never surf again.
Provided you don’t mention their secret spots, the locals are very friendly, and it comes as a bit of a surprise to find Yorkshire accents out in the surf instead of the pseudo-Aussie twang that seems to infect much of Cornwall these days.
Saltburn Surf Shop tel: +44 (0)1287 625321 above the beach can provide lessons and gear, and après-surf food and drink are available from The Ship Inn and Bailey’s above the beach. Just inland are the North York Moors, great for hiking or mountain biking, and a few miles down the coast is the attractive former whaling port of Whitby, also worth a visit.
PORTRUSH, ANTRIM, NORTHERN IRELAND
I first surfed this stretch of coastline last year after 20 years of riding waves all over the world, and was blown away by the beauty of the area - and the waves. The pretty beaches of West and East Strand at Portrush are ideal for surfers of all abilities, and have a great backdrop in the form of Donegal’s Inshore Peninsula. West Strand also has a good reef break for experienced surfers, whilst in powerful swells East Strand is a heavy wave suitable for good surfers.
According to Andy Hill of Troggs Surf Shop the whole of the Causeway Coast has excellent and consistent waves and if you time your visit well, it’s unlikely you’d come away without enjoying a few quality surf sessions.
Troggs Surf Shop tel: +44 (0)2870 825476 www.troggs.com offers surf lessons and is also the biggest surf shop in Ireland. They also provide a local surf report on +44 (0)9061 337770. The Hidden Cove next to the surf shop is a good place for an après-surf fry-up, whilst The Harbour Bar serves good food and beer. Whilst in the area take time to visit the amazing basalt columns of the Giant’s Causeway, and maybe Bushmill’s Distillery, both just a few miles east of Portrush.
THURSO, CAITHNESS, SCOTLAND
Castle Reef at Thurso (also known as Thurso East) is regarded as one of the best reef breaks in Europe. Despite the cold, peat-brown waters and fickle climate, adventurous surfers from all over the world travel to Thurso to sample its famous wave.
This is a wave for expert surfers only, breaking heavily over flat slabs of Caithness sandstone, but there are smaller waves on the nearby beach which less experienced surfers will enjoy.
The whole of the coastline of northern Scotland is pounded by waves, which vary from the reefs at Brimms Ness, even more challenging than Castle Reef, to the more mellow beach breaks around Durness, and if it should go flat there’s plenty of magnificent coastline and mountain scenery to explore.
For accommodation and food try Sandra’s Backpackers Hostel, Princes Street tel: +44 (0)1847 894575. A popular bar is Top Joe’s on Trail Street, and if you find yourself in the area without a board and wetsuit you can hire basic versions of each from Harper’s Fishing Tackle, 57 High Street tel: +44 (0)1847 893179. There is no ‘proper’ surf shop in the town though.