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From the top floor terrace of the new 5-star Hotel Saratoga in Havana, guests have a panorama that speaks volumes about the history of Cuba.

All around lies a sprawling city of several million inhabitants and the rooftops they call home. These largely decrepit, crumbling affairs still aspire to colonial grandeur, albeit of the faded variety. Harking back to the era of Spanish dominance, they serve as a constant reminder of the country’s first, and most influential, colonial takeover.

Dominating the skyline immediately in front of the hotel is the somewhat out-of-place Capitolio monument. A relic from the glory days of the 1930’s and ‘40’s when America had long since displaced Spain as the dominant foreign power and was pumping its near-neighbour full of greenbacks, commercial goods and of course, cars.

Built in homage to Washington DC’s very own Capitol building, Havana’s version has rather inconveniently survived long after Cuban-American relations turned sour. A visitor today can still find it at the very epicentre of the capital, a prominent but solitary ex-patriot, uncertain of its own identity, politics or purpose.

Never ones to miss out on an opportunity to export their own particular brand of architecture, the Soviets too have left their unmistakable mark on the metropolis. Several high-rise blocks that could only have come from one country in one era are dotted around Havana, yet they tell us more about Soviet architectural intransigence than their ability to adapt to local tastes and styles.

Only slightly easier on the eye are the countless Lada taxis that still tour the streets today, another reminder of just how prominent a role the Soviets had in the economic development of Cuba during the Cold War. Apparently in silent competition with the more visually appealing classic American Chevrolet, Buick and Cadillac cabs, the Ladas offer a functional, affordable transport option for all; a slightly rusty form of socialism on wheels.

To the north of the Saratoga’s turquoise rooftop pool are the Straits of Florida, Key West and, beyond that, Miami, for so long the disenchanted Cuban emigrant’s destination of choice.

But Cuba has seen its own influx of visitors over the past fifteen years. Even in 1992, just after the collapse of the Soviet Union meant an end to the economic support Cuba had relied upon for several decades, over 400,000 tourists visited the recently built holiday resorts of Varadero town on Cuba’s northern coastline.

Since then, tourism has grown into a US$2billion industry, resolutely filling the gap left by sugar to become the ‘locomotive of the Cuban economy’. The 1990’s saw double-digit growth for Cuban tourism revenues as more and more Spanish and Canadian companies entered the market either via joint ventures with the Cuban state or under management contracts to operate state-owned hotels.

Virgin Atlantic have now a direct flight from London to Havana (always a sign that a destination is ‘on the up’) and the Hotel Saratoga is justifiably pitching itself as something of a revolution in terms of Cuba’s luxury hotel market. In more ways than one therefore, Cuba is showing signs of increased tolerance of the outside world.

Scratch the surface though and the country’s peculiar mix of socialism and nationalism is never far away. Under the all-pervasive hand of the state, hotel brands such as Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons and Hilton are still too strongly associated with America to be allowed in. It is thus left to the small independent hotel brands, friendly mavericks such as Virgin Atlantic and Spanish chains such as Sol Melia to cater to Cuba’s inbound tourist trade.

Over the last decade the state has been doing its best to promote family and heritage tourism in particular. The former is understandable, if for no other reason than to counter-act the image of Cuba as a singleton’s paradise with a near epidemic prostitution problem. Heritage tourism is a somewhat more complex concept however, not least because of the debate over whether it protects a culture in the long-term or merely turns it into a Disney-like attraction instead.

Equally, culture and heritage are two things Cuba has never been short of. From rum to salsa, Hemingway to cocktails, both state and people seem more than happy to export their cultural goods at any opportunity; and two of their most prominent gifts to the outside world must surely be cigars and ballet.

Cuba has long produced some of the world’s best-known cigar brands and remains a Mecca for tobacco aficionados. Cohiba, Montecristo, Romeo y Julieta; they are all born, bred and exported from here.

Visiting a cigar factory such as the Real Fabrica de Tabacos de Partagas in Havana or perhaps even a ‘vega’ (tobacco field) out in the prime tobacco leaf territory of the Vuelta Abajo will provide a firsthand insight into the fascinating cigar-making process.

Just as cigars are given out to every Cuban as part of their monthly rations package from the state, so ballet was ‘democratised’ once Castro came to power in 1959. Perhaps it was mere serendipity that saw one of the world’s most gifted dancers emerge in Cuba at that time, perhaps not, but the story of Alicia Alonso and the Ballet Nacional de Cuba she founded has since passed into local legend.

One of the world’s foremost prima ballerinas of the mid-nineteenth century, Alicia Alonso developed her own Cuban style of choreography that borrowed from the Russian, French and American schools, while adding a distinctive slice of Caribbean sensuality. The result changed the history of an entire art form.

With funding from Castro himself, the great ballerina was able to found her own ballet school and, while she may now have hung up her tutu for the last time, Alonso-trained troupes still perform in Havana’s Gran Teatro today. Remarkably, ticket prices for foreigners remain as little as US$10 for even the most prestigious performances and locals pay less than a dollar all year round.

Perhaps unsurprisingly then, one of the side effects of Castro’s socialism has been the creation of an incredibly cultured nation. No matter what one’s political inclinations it is hard not to be impressed at the sight of an auditorium packed full of ballet lovers from all walks of life, rich and poor, old and young.

It is only once you step outside, back into the steamy swirl of central Havana at night, that you are reminded of the conditions the majority of these people live in day to day.

The area around the Gran Teatro is one of the oldest in the city and is packed with architectural delights in various states of disrepair. Yet there is one building in particular that stands out from the rest. The Hotel Saratoga’s façade is an inevitable crowd-pleaser. Not only is it an attractive colonial-style beauty, it is also clean, a real novelty around these parts.

In fact, this hotel is unique in many ways. Save for one or two delightful old 4-star properties in Havana Vieja (the Old Town) the capital is painfully short on high-end accommodation of truly international standards.

Viewed within this context, the Saratoga is a huge leap forward that reflects the increasing flexibility hoteliers are being given by the state to experiment in their hotel design in a bid to attract foreign currency.

A bright, airy entrance hall sets a tone of forthright elegance from the start with its soaring staircase, abundant foliage and marble flooring, but it is the 5metre-wide contemporary Cuban painting hanging behind the reception desk that suggests something bigger is going on here, something that is beginning to promote local artists to an international market.

Once upstairs in one of the 63 rooms, high ceilings and wooden window shutters add to the charm while warm yellows, pea greens and russet reds provide an assured sense of place. Upgrade to a top suite and you will be treated to double-poster beds, mezzanine sleeping areas and 180-degree window views over the skyline, and a considerable increase in floor space.

Things only improve further up the building with a rooftop terrace housing a petite lap pool, full-spec Technogym workout room and open-air restaurant ideal for lazy lunches in the sun.

For early evening drinks the hotel has two bars on offer with live Cuban music, while the Anaounda restaurant offers international cuisine at international prices. The food is notoriously poor in Cuba it has to be said, so after several days of eating the alternatives available outside of the hotel, the chances are you will be thankful for a decent meal, no matter what the cost.

It is almost a relief to move on to the ‘after-dinner’ stage most evenings, for that is when the city really comes into its own. Even the most demanding of bar lovers will find something to please, as long as it involves rum, music and dancing of course. Oh, and don’t expect anything with ‘modern’ design. Outside of the Saratoga, Cuba just does not do contemporary chic, so set your expectations accordingly before venturing out.

A couple of recommendations from your hotel concierge should help you locate a top salsa band and a deftly mixed mojito or three. Along with daiquiri and Cuba libre cocktails, the mojito reigns supreme on Havana’s drinks list. Here though, there is none of the technical wizardry of London or Moscow’s top barmen, instead you will be served a simplified version consisting of sparkling water, fresh mint and lime juice, a spoonful of sugar and plenty of ice. Nada mas.

A note of warning though - most considerate bars and hotels make their ice from purified water but if you venture off the beaten bar track one evening it is worth checking before imbibing. Cuban tap water should carry a health warning for all tourists; one ice-filled cocktail is enough to play havoc with a delicate Western stomach for days.

It could be worse of course, Cuba has one of the best health care services in the world, so you will be in good hands no matter how sick you get. Just remember that it is still free to Cubans and distinctly over-priced for foreigners though. While some old Socialist habits die hard it seems, others are clearly being relaxed for the 21st-century as Raoul takes control of the party reigns. Quite where Cuba goes from here though is anyone’s guess…

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