Articles > Galilee

Whether it’s the sweet mountain air, the fertile soil or the legend of water being turned into wine by a maverick, miracle-wreaking Jew 2000 years ago, there is certainly something discernibly magical and mystical about the Galilee.

You only have to stand in the centre of Safed, where the mysticism of the kabbalah was disseminated by rabbis hundreds of years ago to feel it - and you will not be alone. Hordes of Jewish pilgrims, students and cultural tourists pour in every day to visit historic little synagogues, trawl galleries for paintings with a Judaic theme or merely wander the cobbled alleys beneath blue-painted arches and gaze out over hills regarded as sacred since famous Talmudic scholars were buried there.

The tiny, picturesque artists' colony in old Safed is full of great characters not too busy to hold a conversation, from the caretaker of the colourful Ari synagogue who claims Madonna tried and failed to bags it for a private service earlier this year to the bearded and satin-robed Yaacov Kaszemacher, a French artist whose blurry photographs of Chasidic celebrations have won him worldwide exhibitions, and whose initimate paintings of the walls, doors and alleyways of Safed aren't half-bad either.

The Ohr Yaacov Gallery is on Yosef Caro, the craft alley leading up to the little private synagogues, of which the Ari, with its amazing carved and painted ark, and the Caro are the most notable.The fine art section proper is the other side of the main square crammed with tour buses, and is currently under renovation.

It's worth dodging the potholes to seek out painters and sculptors in their studios and admire the beautiful little lanes; when the bulldozers are through, the town will be even lovelier to visit than it is today. Restaurants are not much in evidence but the cafe in the central Judith gallery complex serves a mean bowl of hummus, liberally laced with olive oil tasting good enough to be local - Galilee oil is considered some of Israel's best.

Gastronomy is, for Jews at least, reason alone to visit Tiberias on the shores of Kinneret, aka the Sea of Galilee. Here, The Decks kosher steakhouse is as much of a draw for Jewish gourmands as the lakeside churches of Tabgha and nearby Mount of Beatitudes for Christian pilgrims.

Decks was started by a keen carnivore who discovered charcoal-grilling was a valid method of koshering meat while retaining its flavour, and meat-lovers travel from all over Israel for platters of specially bred lamb chops, steaks, duck breast and endless accompaniments.

The tableside drama of sizzling braziers is frequently amplified by simcha parties making a dramatic arrival by boat to musical fanfare; this is a huge, fun restaurant whose size does not diminish its intimacy or buzz.

Nearby Capernaum is as much of interest to Jews as to Christians, thanks to the spectacular marble ruins of Israel’s best-preserved synagogue of the third and fourth centuries. At the Yigal Allon Centre on Kibbutz Ginosaur, the big attraction is a fishing boat unearthed 20 years ago which dates back to the time of Christ’s ministry.

Before leaving the lakeshore, it's also worth looking in on the beautiful little Mensa Christi church at Tabgha, with its stained glass and peaceful stretch of shoreline; this, like the Mount of Beatitudes, is a good place to meditate upon the wonders of nature spread out before you.

Meditation of a more organised kind is on offer, along with yoga, tai ch'i, painting lessons and other peace-inducing pursuits in the hill villages of the Misgav, where several hundred like-minded people who once led successful but stressed city lives have moved in search of personal fulfillment, and are keen to share their New Age skills with visitors. It's all completely tailor-made, with Hararit in particular offering many activities and b&b rooms(including a self-contained apartment in the spectacular home of dance therapist Ruth Pardess and her equally ebullient architect husband Joe).

Over in Michmanim, Orna Oren offers painting workshops in her delightful home studio, while her architect neighbour and his Japanese wife are building six zen-inspired rooms to complement the Japanese restaurant they open at weekends.

Supplementing the zimmerim, or b&b rooms which underpin these Galilee homestay retreats, is the spa hotel Mizpe Hayamim, near Safed, and an architecturally interesting hotel in the Scots at Tiberias, owned by the Church of Scotland - if only the elders would invest in some comfortable beds and pillows to complement the distinguished exterior!

An interesting alternative, especially if continuing on to the Golan Heights, is Kfar Blum, one of Israel's most northerly kibbutzim whose principal industries are hospitality and culture. They have created a highly professional guesthouse operation, from the beds among the most comfortable in Israel to the bountiful breakfasts; it's a shame that steam table delivery means the hot dinner fare is less palatable than the wonderful cold table.

But the real attractions of Kfar Blum are the outdoor activities for families - kayaking, an adventure playground and rafting down the Jordan river - and the indoor ones, including a full spa, for grown-ups. The annual musical festival is renowned, and now at least one of the interim weekends, which draw Israelis from all over the country, is to be made available to English-speakers in 2009; subject and date not yet finalised, but from all one hears about the quality ofj the cultural programmes,a treat not to miss.

The kibbutz sits in the foothills of the Golan, and one only has to climb the slopes to realise why this land has been of such strategic importance to Israel since its 1967 capture. For more than 40 years, Israelis have been free of surveillance from the Syrian watchposts which still litter the ridge, and now it is their soldiers who can stare out towards Damascus from Mount Bental and the curiously-named "Coffee Annan" cafe, no pun intended: the name means “coffee in the clouds” in Hebrew.

The gun emplacements of an old Syrian bunker surround this pleasant mountaintop cafe, and the fruit stand outside stands testament to the rich volcanic soil which makes the area of such economic as well as military importance. Not only are heavenly cherries, raspberries and apricots grown in the Golan, it is the birthplace of Israel's premium winegrowing industry,which is barely 25 years old.

A visit to the Golan Heights Winery is quite instructive - and the tasting of its fine Yarden wines delicious - but be prepared for crowds; this is no boutique operation but a vast industrial plant. A warmer and more intimate experience is on offer to those who call ahead to nearby, award-winning Chateau Golan, whose American-trained winemaker and co-owner, Uri Hetz, is happy to chat with visiting wine-lovers; his Eliad blend is a very fine red indeed.

Heading south out of the region towards Haifa and the highway to Ben Gurion airport, it pays to leave a couple of hours to explore Tzipoori, one of the greatest archaeological sites in all Israel. Settled by the Hasmoneans 2200 years ago then conquered by the Romans, it is the birthplace of the Mishnah, as well as home to numerous splendid artefacts of Byzantine, Crusader and other later occupying groups. The Byzantine mosaics are as great a draw as the Roman roads and amphitheatre - the site’s greatest highlight is its mosaics, of which the “Mona Lisa of the Galilee” is worth the trip alone.

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