Articles > A taste of real Spain

Spain has a glitzy Costa for every day of the week but the newly-discovered Costa Calida is a leisurely place for discerning visitors and Spanish families. South of Alicante in the province of Murcia, the ‘Warm Coast’ is keen to assert its individuality, with good reasons. It claims more sunny days than any other, over 140 miles of shore fringed by crystal waters and a lush hinterland dotted with historic towns and hill villages tucked among vineyards and citrus groves.

A long forgotten corner of Spain, Murcia is developing fast but a few exceptions apart, high rise remain refreshingly sparse and areas of natural beauty are carefully managed and protected. It’s the best of both worlds, a taste of real Spain with delightful holiday villas and amenities on the doorstep.

Golf and Spa

Ours was a short break so we headed straight for the Mar Menor Golf Resort at Polaris World where the nine hole course, open to non-residents, will soon be extended to 18 holes by the Nicklaus Design team. The team plan a total of six prestigious courses, each one unique, ‘challenging and enjoyable’, suitable for all levels and landscaped to enhance the environment, enough to inspire any golfer keen to follow in legendary footsteps.

Duly impressed, the men set off to tackle the course while we vanished in search of the spa. Imagine stepping into a subdued sensuous world of sound and fragrance, closing the door on all your cares as you edge into the vitality pool, feel the warmth of the sauna or the freshness of the ice fountain, then relax in an inner patio straight out of the Arabian Nights, and all this before your treatment even begins.

Then it’s decision time, hot stone, Ayurvedic, body wrap, massage or the ultimate age defying facial? I must admit, my greatest need was for the latter and 1hr50 minutes of blissful dreams. Cool aloe and spearmint, scented cypress, lavender, sweet almond, frankincense, avocado and more, a gorgeous garden of Eden was at work to enhance my looks, without the slightest effort on my part. My face was sprayed with extracts of ivy, jojoba oil and mallow, my eyes revitalised with an antioxidant mask and my hair massaged with pink mud. Scrubbed, moisturised and smoothed to a polish, I emerged on top of the world, hoping there would be enough time before dinner to wash the mud out of my hair.

Meanwhile, my friend had seen her energy flow restored by hot volcanic stones and an Oriental head massage, and the men had returned from their round, ready to take on La Torre, the next challenge on the Nicklaus Golf Trail.

Coast to coast

But for the next few days, the coast held us spellbound, from the pretty bay of Aguilas gathered around its fishing boats and hilltop castle to the vast salt lake of the Mar Menor, the ‘little sea’ hanging like a necklace on the south eastern tip of the province. There on a narrow ribbon of land, 13 miles long, the tower blocks of La Manga float between sky and sea, lapped by the Med, windswept and wild, on one side, and the calm waters of the lagoon on the other. There are islands and watersports galore, salt marshes where flamingos and herons tiptoe in the shallows and near Lo Pagán, some of the largest mud baths in Europe. Our favourite spot was Cabo de Palos, a genuine fishing village perched on the southern cape, famed for its waterside restaurants, Sunday market and superb panorama from the lighthouse. Just down the lane, birdwatchers and ramblers explore the Calblanque, a pristine Nature Park strung with stunning diving sites, fossil dunes and forlorn beaches framed by rocky heights.

Open bays or tiny coves accessed only by boat, the coast meanders along the foothills of Sierra de la Muèla towards the broad sands of Puerto de Mazarrón. There we dipped our toes in the sea, sipped cool drinks on the palm-lined promenade and walked on the cliff top in search of fabulous views, wild flowers and butterflies. We could just make out the scenic resort of Bolnuevo along the coast where water and wind have carved the ochre-coloured rocks into fantastic shapes.

Ancient cities

Cathaginians, Romans and Moors, all left their mark and a good place to start on the heritage trail is Cartagena, founded by Punic general Hasdrubal in 227BC to become the capital of his Iberian Empire. Take the panoramic lift to the hilltop gardens of Concepción Castle and draped in oleander and jacaranda, the city is at your feet, spires and domes, ancient sites, ramparts and a working harbour guarded by myriad fortifications.

Look out for the Roman Theatre, the Caridad church, home to the Our Lady of Charity, the city’s patron saint, and among the modernist façades sculpted like wedding cakes, the Grand Hotel and the City Hall. Cooled by the breeze, we sailed around the harbour and rode on the open top bus, hopping on and off to see the sights, while in the late afternoon, Spanish families in their finest clothes paraded along the promenade, past the prototype of the submarine invented by local scientist and sailor Peral.

But at the heart of the province, on the banks of the Segura, it is Murcia, the Moorish capital, which gives its name to this autonomous region of Spain. The town has long grown beyond its original walls but the old centre is a web of shaded squares and winding streets leading to the Bishop’s Palace and the Baroque Cathedral, graced by exuberant carvings and a magnificent altarpiece. The tower took almost 300 years to complete. Murcia has its share of churches and shrines, museums and gardens, flamboyant buildings, boutiques, ice cream parlours and bridges mirrored in the river, tamed by the Moors to irrigate the Huerta, the market gardens surviving to this day.

Indulge your taste buds

In this generous land, every town has a market, colourful, fragrant, full of fresh produce, and whether your villa is inland or on the coast, shopping for the family is a treat. What you thought were lakes glistening in the distance are realms of plastic sheeting covering the first strawberries or tomatoes, 30 varieties of them, best of all the green ones from Mazzarón. There are peach and cherry orchards, oranges, lemons, vineyards and fields of aubergines, fennel, asparagus and artichokes spreading as far as you can see. Add seafood and olives, goat’s cheese, Serrano ham and paprika sausage, cracked wheat, tortilla, almonds, spicy rice, and even a simple picnic becomes a feast. Or after a day on the beach, relax on your patio and gaze at the stars, as fish from the morning catch sizzles on the barbecue and the smell of warm bread drifts from the old Moorish oven down the road.

Eating out? We found places for every budget and taste, from romantic seaside restaurants to rustic mountain inns serving traditional shepherd’s stew, and tapas bars where locals meet around mouth-watering snacks, ordered in small, medium or large portions. As for the popular paella, it comes from Valencia but Murcia has so many variants it’s easy to ring the changes. Try it with rabbit or snails in the sierras, pork on the plain, juicy king prawns and mussels by the sea or rock fish baked fisherman style, in a salt crust. End with fruit tart, turron nougat or almond cake, a glass or two of local wine, and your Spanish friends will be delighted.

The Murcia wines have been famous since Roman times but beware, for in the heat of southern Spain, they easily reach 14% or more. Jumilla, Bullas and Yecla guarantee high quality, from fruity blends to full-bodied ‘machos’, the fabric of ‘Old Spain’. Summer brings a wine fiesta or two and you can visit vineyards and bodegas inviting you to taste before you buy.

Upcountry

To the south west of Murcia town, the wooded slopes of Sierra de Espuña rise towards remote highlands and Pico Revolcadores, towering at over 6600 feet. Trekkers picnic among swathes of scented pines, juniper and oak, wild boar and mountain cats scurry in the undergrowth and sometimes a white squirrel races down a tree like a flash of lightning.

There are cool springs and shaded glades, rocky peaks and deserted trails twittering with bird song. In the fold of the hills, white farmhouses are sprinkled like almond blossom and on the edge of the reserve, old towns doze in the shadow of crumbling castles and sun-baked rocks, Aledo, Mula, Lorca, Moratalla caught in a mysterious maze of ever twisting lanes. There’s no better place to look for authentic craft, from basket ware or reed mats to traditional Nativity figures, embroidery or ceramics and pottery painted in bright Mediterranean colours.

We could have spent a whole week exploring hills and plain, riding, canoeing, cycling in vineyards, orchards and rice fields, past waterwheels and ancient ruins, and the holy city of Caravaca de la Cruz where at fiesta time, the precious cross is bathed in water and wine. Time was too short but before returning to the coast, we managed a detour to the hot springs of Fortuna, the perfect complement to that first luxurious session in the lovely setting of Mar Menor Golf Resort and Spa.

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