Articles > Sicily: Culture and style

As the plane banked ready for landing, lush citrus groves spread as far as we could see and a sprinkling of red roofs glowed in the morning sun. The silvery coast meandered into the distance while on the mighty cone of Etna, snow glistened and a plume of white smoke drifted across the sky.

Mountains and beaches, ancient sites, quiet villages or bustling cities, Sicily has it all but for spectacular scenery, culture and a touch of class, follow the jet set to Taormina on the east coast. Luxurious villas hide in secluded groves and occasionally, a limousine with darkened windows threads its way through the lanes, bringing the latest arrivals.

Clinging to the cliff among exotic palms and cypress trees, Taormina seduces at first sight, its elegant Corso gleaming with silverware and chandeliers, diamonds and gold, antiques and designer clothes. Upcoming artists set up their easels on shaded piazzas, al fresco restaurants serve red mullet and spiny lobster and festooned in flowers, the old town climbs through archways and stepped alleyways, offering now and then tantalising glimpses of the sea.

Those who long for a dip take the cable car, or walk down, to the small pebbly beach of Mazzarò but it’s only a stone’s throw to the popular coves of Isola Bella or the sweeping sands of Giardini Naxos where multicoloured parasols look across the bay, framed by dramatic cliffs and hilltop castles. You soon spot the eagle’s nest village of Castelmola perched on a vertiginous spur, reaching for the sky as luminous lizards scurry among the pines and the subtle fragrance of almond wine lingers in the lanes. Up there, in the forlorn ruins of the castle, the air is cool and filled with birdsong.

It’s no wonder the Greeks fell in love with this fabulous bay, founding their first colony in Naxos in 734 BC and later settling on Mount Tauro .Hewn out of the rock on the edge of a promontory, the Greco-Roman theatre of Taormina remains one of the finest on the island, set against the magnificent backdrop of the Ionian Sea.

Eastern Sicily has a generous share of World Heritage sites, among them the legendary Syracuse, once the greatest power in the Mediterranean. In the extensive Archaeological Park, crowds marvel at the Greek Theatre, still used today, the Ear of Dionysos cave haunted by prisoners’ tales, the great altar of Hiero II and the Roman Amphitheatre tucked among eucalyptus and olive trees. Back into town, you can wander around the harbour, all pastel-coloured boats and Venetian buildings mirrored in the water, before crossing the bridge to the old district on Ortygia Island. Beyond the ruins of the Apollo Temple, the Piazza Duomo and neighbouring streets reveal stunning examples of Baroque architecture, dominated by the cathedral which incorporates the last vestiges of Athena’s Temple.

South of Syracuse, Noto was rebuilt in that same Baroque style, following the 1693 earthquake, and is one of eight similar UNESCO sites in this part of the island. Strolling among oleander and ficus trees, we discovered dozens of richly decorated façades, honey-coloured under a bright blue sky, and climbed to the top of the church tower for panoramic views over the town, the plain and the hills.

How could we resist Agrigento? It’s a fair drive along the south coast but Pindar described it as ‘the most beautiful city built by mortals’. Tyrants came and went, battles were won and lost, but the Greek ‘Akragas’ continued to grow into the epitome of good living, harmony and wealth. We explored in style, opting for a leisurely ride by pony and trap past houses and tombs, the lofty columns of Herakles Temple, Concord, Sicily’s finest Doric temple, and the tumbled remains of the Temple of Zeus, one of the largest in the ancient world. As you gaze at the colonnades in shades of ochre and gold, the almond trees scattering their blossom in the breeze, the azure sea speckled with sails, you feel you could stretch out your hand and touch the past.

The Romans too left their mark in Agrigento but to see some of their best mosaics, Villa del Casale is a must. Nestling in flower meadows near Piazza Armerina, the hunting lodge is full of treasures, among them the celebrated bikini-clad athletes and winner of the games bearing crown and sceptre.

Closer to Taormina, Catania has much to offer though few visitors venture beyond the airport. It’s a bustling city where Sicilians like to shop in the smart stores of Via Etnea or wander around the daily market before meeting friends over cappuccino and ice cream. Roman remains and Baroque palaces pop up when you least expect them and you will find a sturdy medieval castle, a theatre named after local composer Bellini, staging opera and classical concerts, and St Agatha’s Cathedral rising on a spacious square, under the watchful gaze of an elephant carved from lava rock. In early February, up to a million devotees attend the three day festival held in honour of the patron saint.

Aloof, sometimes restless, Etna looks down from its smoky crater, promising, if you dare, a day’s adventure unlike any other. Beyond the villages nestling on the lower slopes, the hazel and walnut groves and the vineyards brought to the island by ancient Greeks, you drive up to a mountain lodge where four wheel drives and rangers wait to take you to the north east crater, along the breathtaking ‘sea to snow’ road.

Up there, at nearly 3000 metres, a large slice of Sicily is at your feet, vast lava fields, tiny villages and the long ribbon of the coast unfolding towards the Straits of Messina and the Aeolian Islands, floating between sky and sea. It’s an alien world, awesome and strangely beautiful, but when you return to the first signs of life, a trattoria covered in wisteria, a shepherd dozing under a flowering tree, you wonder if it was just a dream.

Meanwhile in Taormina, it is time for the passeggiata, the ritual late afternoon stroll when young and old, families and couples parade through the streets to see and be seen. The latest fashion is on show, Gucchi bags, stilettos and all, and it’s the perfect time to relax on a café-terrace with a glass or two of Marsala or Etna Bianco. The souvenir shops are still open, ceramics, terracotta, Etna stones, and as dusk falls, the whirring of crickets echoes all around and the myriad flavours of Sicilian cuisine mingle with the scent of jasmine and orange blossom.

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