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In the elegant city of Nancy, all roads lead to Stanislas Square. Why should a deposed Polish king be honoured so graciously? When 60 year old Stanislas sought refuge at the French Court in the early 18th century, his son in law Louis XV placed the newly acquired Lorraine in his care until death, hoping to distance himself from this unwanted monarch and give the old Duchy time to accept French allegiance. For over 29 years, Stanislas’ enlightened policies inspired the people of Lorraine and transformed their capital. He cared for the poor, nurtured the arts and on the marshlands which spread between the old and new towns, he built an unrivalled architectural complex. He died on 23rd February 1766 and on that day, Lorraine became French.

The Royal Town

Nothing prepares you for the magnificence of Place Stanislas, formerly Place Royale, built by the last Duke of Lorraine in gratitude to the French King. Designed by architect Héré and craftsmen Lamour and Guibal, an impressive 106x124 metres, it is bordered by classical buildings and fountains and wrought iron gates adorned in gold leaf. The Revolution removed the statue of Louis XV and now Stanislas the Benefactor presides over his square, beautifully renovated to mark the 250th anniversary. Visit at different times of day to experience its everchanging mood, deserted, all white and gold, in the early morning, bustling with café terrace later on, glowing in the sunset, draped in lights after dark. It’s the heart of the city, the place to see and be seen, relax over an aperitif –try crémant de Toul and mirabelle plum liqueur- before dining al fresco as you gaze at the Triumphal Arch glorifying Louis XV.

Some say this is Europe’s finest royal square, a World Heritage site with the nearby Places Carrière and de l’Alliance. The former jousting grounds of Carrière were embellished by Héré with new façades while statues and fountains led to the Governor’s Palace framed by colonnaded wings. The Alliance, named after Franco-Austrian agreements, is a quiet little spot where locals gather under the trees and birds bathe in an Italian-style fountain.

Vieux Nancy

Leave the glamourous ‘Place Stan’ through the Triumphal Arch and you come to the old town, a jumble of meandering lanes where greengrocers and bakers mingle with florists, antique shops and ‘boutique lorraine’ fragrant with almonds and plums. Bicycles rattle on the paving stones and even the street names belong to a bygone age. Look out for the street of the Trumpeting Moor, rue du Petit Bourgeois, Stables’ Lane, Wolves’Hotel and the gems hidden around every corner, here a turret, a carving over an archway, a stone balustrade, a well or a majestic staircase through a half open gate.

The Grande Rue is little more than a village street but when you least expect it, you come across the massive façade of the Dukes’ Palace with its flamboyant gateway and gargoyles peering down at the passers-by. Squeezing at its side is the Cordelier, the oldest church in town and burial place of the Dukes. The interior is airy and light, enhanced by a fiery rose window and the recumbent figure of Philippa de Gueldres, Queen of Sicily and Duchess of Lorraine, by Ligier Richier. The Grande Rue ends at the Porte de la Graffe, all that remains of the ramparts which surrounded the medieval town. Look above the archway and you’ll see a double cross, the traditional emblem of Lorraine ever since Duke René II beat the Burgundians at the Battle of Nancy in 1477.

One Sunday a month (more often in season), the Grande Rue takes on a festive air as the flea market spreads its colourful wares from palace to gate. Cuckoo clocks and old photo albums jostle with faded paintings, electric fans, dentist chairs, china, prayer books, oriental carpets and more. Fresh produce is sold in the morning at the side of the Cordelier, honey, saucisson flavoured with goat’s cheese, garlic or blueberries, traditional pâté lorrain or meat pies topped by a delicious golden crust.

Eating out

Stanislas loved his food and Nancy cheerfully follows in his footsteps, dining out every night of the week. The city claims 320 restaurants but to avoid disappointment, be sure to settle down to dinner as soon as doors open or better still, book a table in good time.

Did you know that Stanislas and his beloved daughter Marie introduced rum baba and vol au vent to Lorraine? Take your place ‘A la table du bon roi Stanislas’, rue Gustave Simon, and share some of their favourite dishes, carefully researched by the chef. You won’t go hungry but you can expect some surprising flavours. Or try the Excelsior Brasserie for excellent fare and convivial atmosphere in a belle époque décor or the Toque Blanche in the old town for ‘nouvelle cuisine’ and impeccable service.

The old town is a magnet for food lovers, especially along rue des Maréchaux where cosy restaurants stand cheek to jowl from end to end. The rue gourmande, as it is called, caters for all, be it seafood or Quiche Lorraine, venison, pasta, Chinese dumplings or Indian curries. Menus may be cosmopolitan but French delicacies are plentiful and if you have a sweet tooth, the city has its own specialities, Bergamote sweets, made from the scented Mediterranean fruit, and crunchy Macaron biscuits whose recipe invented by nuns is a well-kept secret.

Anyone for culture?

With a university totalling over 50,000 students and staff, Nancy is lively and forward looking, keen on theatre, opera, festivals and concerts yet proud to explore its heritage.

St Nicolas, patron saint of Lorraine, is celebrated with gusto in December and seven museums compete for attention, top of the list the Musée Lorrain, housed in the Dukes’ Palace and Cordelier. Devoted to local history from prehistoric to modern times, it includes engravings by Callot, paintings by George de la Tour, traditional furniture and a superb collection of glazed china.

On Place Stanislas, the Fine Arts Museum exhibits paintings and sculptures by European artists from the 14th-century onwards but most stunning is the crystal collection, on show alongside the old barbican in the basement. This is the work of the Daum brothers, reflected in glinting multicoloured glassware from 1878 to this day. If you are tempted, pop into their shop across the square or their factoty, rue des cristalleries.

The Daums followed the trend set up by the Nancy School where Art Nouveau flourished around the 1900s. Led by Gallé and Majorelle, artists worked in all media, inspired by the soft flowing lines of the natural world. Later, the style evolved into Art Deco with straighter lines and stylised patterns. To appreciate this original, at times exotic, ‘art for all’, visit the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy, in the former home of their patron Eugène Corbin.

The New Town

From furniture and decorative items, the elaborate designs of the Nancy School spread to architecture across the new town. Take a bus south to see the delightful villas scattered around the Parc Sainte Marie and Saurupt districts, each one different from the next. There are floral patterns on the walls, fairytale balconies and towers and half-moon windows decorated with stained glass and gilt. In the town centre, best examples are the Chamber of Commerce, Brasserie Excelsior and BNP bank.

Yet this ‘new town’ existed long before Art Nouveau. It was built on a checkerboard pattern by Duke Charles III, at the end of the 16th-century when the old town began to spread beyond the walls. Today it’s a thriving place with chic boutiques rue des Dominicains and shopping for all rue St Dizier or rue St Jean where silvery trams zoom across the city from east to west. You’ll find wide avenues and pedestrian lanes, outdoor cafés, flower sellers and buskers, markets and myriad churches where bells chime now and then. To the south east is the church of Notre Dame de Bonsecours, Our Lady of Mercy, the resting place of Stanislas.

Gardens and waterways

Twenty-three parks, 22 000 trees, up to 330 000 flowering plants, Nancy Ville Verte invites you to stroll or picnic in the shade, just minutes from the main square. The Pépinière Park, first planted by Stanislas, greets you with velvety lawns and blossom, rose garden and bansdstand, while in the Godron Gardens fragrant with box, every plant grown around town is on display, with a special section for 18th century species. The Montet Botanical Gardens climb up the slopes of Villers les Nancy, filled with flowers, water features and plants from all over the world. Don’t miss the forlorn chapel tucked in the greenery or the views of Nancy and surrounding hills through the trees.

Back on Stanislas Square, it’s only a short walk down Ste Catherine street to the Canal de la Marne au Rhin and the peaceful marina where the ‘Bergamote’ waits to take you on a leisurely cruise if you wish. Cross the lifting bridge to admire the new Water Gardens with their Tulip Tree Square, Iris Channel or Pool of 100 Fountains.

Continue along rue Bazin and beyond the placid waters of the Bras Vert, you reach the river Meurthe. Few visitors venture this far yet it is one of the loveliest spots in town where you can walk or cycle for miles along the banks. Bridges and pastel houses mirror themselves in the water and there are dozens of swans, ducks, weeping willows and islands. Birds twitter in the trees and you may even spot a stork or two, like the lucky pair who not so long ago, decided to build their nest on top of Stanislas’ head.

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