Australasia > New Zealand > North Island > Auckland > Articles > Coast of Ghosts

It’s a crystal clear day and the mid-summer sun twinkles on the horizon, blinding jewels on a pounding sea. We are climbing at a cracking pace; my office-bound legs are struggling to keep up with my older, yet fitter, companion. I wave him on and pant breathlessly that I’ll catch up at the top.

Despite an elevated heart rate and the brilliance of the day I can’t help but shiver as we reach the grassy peak of Wing Head, a bluff overlooking the entrance to the Manukau Harbour. Below is a scene of unadulterated wilderness – a wide expanse of rippled black sand, punctuated by dramatic islets lapped by ferocious seas and an ever-expanding wetland ringed by the forest-clad cliffs of the Waitakere Ranges.

This is Whatipu, the wildest and most remote of Auckland’s west coast beaches. It’s stunningly beautiful, dramatic and fierce, a place that refuses to be tamed by man despite the fact that it’s only an hour from the city. Below, there’s not a person in sight; the incessant thunder of the oceans are accompanied only by the screeching of seabirds and the howl of the wind.

The isolation is overwhelming. Yet my companion, Bob Harvey – local mayor and passionate advocate of Auckland’s west coast beaches – is convinced we are not alone on this remote headland. Bob calls this a “coast of ghosts”, a place where many lives have been lost and many souls linger. He believes that these spirits are recognisable only to those with a connection to the land, those who allow themselves to be engulfed by the immensity of the landscape.

As we stand surveying the vista, he tells me of a personal paranormal experience that convinced him of the spiritual significance of this coastline.
“I was out with a mate one night about 15 years ago and we just walked down the beach talking,” he said. “We came into an area where we could see massive surf, but we couldn’t hear it. Both of us surf and swim, so we know that big waves make big sounds – yet we were in an absolute zone of silence. It was like standing in front of a giant movie screen where we were watching something happen but the sound wasn’t turned on.”

According to Maori beliefs this coastline is part of a spiritual highway, where the souls of the departed make their way north to Cape Reinga before jumping off into the afterlife. Bob believes that that night, he and his friend had stumbled into this zone as something spiritually significant was happening.

From our elevated lookout we watch as a yacht bobs on the clear horizon, swept along by the stiff breeze. Bob points out the Manukau sandbar, the treacherous sand reef that has claimed over 233 lives since European habitation of the area. This was the site of New Zealand’s worst maritime disaster, the sinking of the Orpheus in 1863, a tragedy where 189 souls perished. Of the crew members washed overboard that fateful night, only 50 bodies were recovered, some discovered weeks, even years later buried in the shifting black sands.

Surveying the wilderness around us it’s difficult to believe that Whatipu was once a bustling port and timber centre, the hub of a thriving industry until 1916. Today, the only vestige of civilisation is the former mill owner’s house, now known as Whatipu Lodge. Built in 1860 by Nicholas and Matilda Gibbons, it was expanded in 1910 to accommodate visitors, workers and holidaymakers who were beginning to discover the wild delights of Whatipu. Today, it is a popular retreat for fishermen and trampers, managed by the Auckland Regional Council.

However, the stamp of the original owners remains; the old homestead is still decorated with the original Gibbons family furnishings and photographs of the lodge’s early days and portraits of family members stare down from the walls. Staying here is like spending the night at an elderly aunt’s house, from the chenille bedspreads to the musty aroma of aging wallpaper.

According to the former manager of the lodge, Mary Roberts, there is one member of the Gibbons family who appreciates her home being left in its original state. Mary believes that the lodge is haunted by a spirit called the Pink Lady, a translucent female apparition with a distinct pink aura. Curiously, she makes her appearances only during daylight hours and only to women and children.

Mary has personally witnessed the Pink Lady on two occasions, and believes she is a member of the Gibbons family with a strong attachment to the place – possibly Matilda Gibbons. “I came into the lounge room one afternoon and there was definitely a woman here. It felt like she was just watching what I was doing, “ Mary says. “You just knew she was a woman, and that she was old. She had long hair tied up and she has a pink aura. That’s why she didn’t feel threatening.”

After the first sighting, Mary tried to convince herself she had imagined the apparition. But then other people – particularly children – began to report seeing a strange old lady in the lodge, vindicating what Mary experienced. Examination of the Whatipu Lodge guest book reveals that sightings of the Pink Lady have continued for years, even up to current times. In one recent report, a young girl had been playing with her tea set, pouring tea for two. Her mother asked who the other setting was for, and the girl replied that it was for the old lady wandering around the lodge.

But on this coast of ghosts, there are few surprises – just an overwhelming sense that there may be more beyond our usual realm of experience and understanding.

BREAKOUT BOX
Other Haunted Places in New Zealand:
Despite its relatively short history of human occupation, New Zealand has its share of ghost and ghouls, creating havoc and scaring the socks off those brave or foolish enough to enter their domain. Below is a list of places amateur ghost hunters and paranormal enthusiasts can visit to experience a fright night like no other…
1. The former Kingseat Hospital at Karaka, south of Auckland, holds the crown as the most haunted site in Auckland. The managers of the facility recently adopted a “if you can’t beat them, join them” philosophy, allowing a tourist venture known as Spookers to commence a haunted house attraction in the complex. www.spookers.co.nz
2. Riccarton House, a beautiful old mansion in Christchurch is said to be haunted by its original owner, Jane Deans. Ghost tours are held on demand. www.riccartonhouse.co.nz
3. Larnach Castle is New Zealand’s only castle, haunted by several spirits including the cranky William Larnach and one of his vengeful wives. A true Gothic experience in Dunedin. www.larnarchcastle.co.nz
4. Waitomo Caves Hotel is New Zealand’s most haunted hotel, a popular destination for psychics, paranormal pundits and film crews from all over the world. Bathtubs drip blood, orbs bounce around the driveway and a Maori princess stalks the corridors. An overnight experience straight out of ‘The Shining’. www.waitomocaveshotel.co.nz
5. The Vulcan Hotel, St Bathans is haunted by the ghost of a murdered prostitute. Male guests have been known to run screaming from Room One after a nocturnal visitation by this vengeful succubus.

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