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The promenade was unusually deserted. The parking lot was strangely empty too. With no jostling or juggling required, ours was the only cab that swung freely into position. There was no long line waiting for a boat-ride and, for the moment at least, we seemed to be the only visitors. A morning mist was still floating over the waves as we climbed into the boat and sat down. It was well on its way when we realised that the boatman was a lady and by her side, a steamer was at work. While one hand held the tiller, the other moved to stir the food every few minutes as it cooked.

Aberdeen is no longer the tourist-hotspot that it once was and this accounts for the lack of men. It is the women who largely handle tourist boats, many of which double as homes, while the men go elsewhere to work – many are fishermen. But for anyone who wishes for an ‘authentic Hong Kong experience’, Aberdeen remains high on the must-see list.

It is believed that the name ‘Hong Kong’ has its origins in what is the present Aberdeen harbour. Hong (or Heung) Kong, the ‘fragrant harbour’, was where resinous incense trees once grew and the locals still refer to Aberdeen as ‘Heung Kong Tsai’, ‘Hueng Gong Tsai’ or ‘Hong Kong Tsai’ – the little, smaller or minor fragrant-harbour. On the southern end of Hong Kong island, ‘Aberdeen’ got its name in 1845 after the 4th Earl of Aberdeen, George Hamilton-Gordon – who was the British Secretary of State for the Colonies and Foreign Secretary – he later served as Prime Minister of Great Britain and took his country to the Crimean War. The character of this Aberdeen was very different to the one in Scotland and, barring a few settlers, this was really a Chinese-populated area with a few expatriates. The old village on adjoining Ap Lei Chau (literally, ‘Duck’s Tongue Island, so named after its appearance), is considered to have been the original village of Hong Kong and was in existence centuries before the present metropolis took shape.

The prow of the sampan wove through other sampans, yachts, water-taxis and junks, past gleaming top of the line water-babies belonging to members of the Aberdeen Boat Club. Close to the shore lay what remains of a boat-village that once held several thousand people. Many of Aberdeen’s boat-people have shifted to the high-rise buildings that dominate the water’s edge. Something in the steamer was obviously ready and as another sampan from the opposite direction came close, and without a word being exchanged, a dish passed from one to the other at the end of a rod. Very domesticated considering that this patch of water and its protection against the typhoons that lash the South China Sea was once considered a haven for pirates. The high polish of the boards of the sampan we were in was soon offset by the bright colours and auspicious symbols of two large floating restaurants, the Jumbo and Tai Pak, some of Aberdeen’s major attractions. The seafood fare and particular ambience here are a rare experience that is as much visual as gastronomic.

The ride is around the harbour lasts half an hour and costs around HK $50, paid in advance. Often enough, there is a bowl in the boat and should you wish to, you can leave a tip. If you plan to visit just the restaurants then take one of their ferries, which are dotted along the pier.

After the boat ride, a walk along the Hong Kong Tsai Street is quite enjoyable. The Hung Shing shrine, old fashioned and dedicated to the Lord of the South Seas, and the Tin Hau temple, dedicated to Heaven’s Queen and Guardian of Seafarers are also close by. From Aberdeen you can go to the many slicker attractions like Ocean Park. Aberdeen’s sabres, daggers and firecrackers may have given way to touts and trinkets but this is perhaps one of the few places where one can still experience the original Hong Kong.

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