Articles > The Other Riviera

Framed by dramatic mountains, Makarska lies at the heart of Dalmatia, on a stunning stretch of the Croatian coast strung with pine groves and pristine beaches, looking out to lush islands where the scent of wild flowers and herbs floats in the air. The sea is crystal clear, the sunset spectacular, sweeping red and gold across the water and the mountains and villages scattered on the slopes.

Stay by the sea
‘Grand lady of forests and beaches’ or ‘Pearl of the Riviera’, Makarska deserves every flattering name, as it curves around a wooded peninsula stretching out into the sea like a giant paw. On one side, pines battered by the north wind lean right over the beach, on the other church spires and galleons mingle their reflections in the harbour, among shoals of shimmering fish. Walk along the palm-lined Riva and its al fresco restaurants and you come to the old town, all stepped alleyways and winding lanes and tall houses with green shutters gathered around the church square and the market spreading its wares under the trees. The Franciscan Monastery houses a world famous Snail and Shell Museum and 50 000 ancient books and documents.

Meandering for almost 40 miles from Brela to Gradac, the Riviera has a resort for every day of the week, each one as lovely as the last, often a mere cluster of red roofs at the water’s edge, far below the ‘top road’ and its fabulous views. Beaches are mostly pebble, clean and dazzling white like the mountains, backed by shaded paths and flower-draped villas where pomegranates and mandarins grow in the gardens .Tucepi has the longest beach (nearly two miles), Podgora a sprinkling of fishermen’s cottages alongside new hotels, Brela sleek yachts and scenic trails, Kravica a pretty seafront guarded by the Rock of the Old Woman’s Tooth on the hillside.

Our villa overlooked the beach in Baska Voda, a small but bustling resort named after the mountain spring which empties its water into the harbour. A mitred St Nicolas stands on the jetty, blessing travellers and sailors, while a long necklace of coves unfolds along the shore. Boasting 2700 hours of sunshine a year, it’s a place to soak in the sun, try parasailing or first time diving, treat yourself to a mega-sized ice cream or a cool drink on a terrace then perhaps visit the archaeological remains, a museum or the pink and blue church which chimes the hours from morning to dusk. A massive old tree stands right in the middle of the road and the night market sells model boats, liqueurs, island stone, Dalmatian beachwear, springy dolls and much more.

Head for the mountains
In this idyllic setting, you’d be forgiven for venturing no further than the beach but a trip into the mountains is out of this world. Biokovo, they say, has ‘her roots in the sea and her head in the clouds’, reaching her highest point at St George’s Peak, close to 6000 feet, barely three miles from the shore. In this vast Nature Park, you soon leave the groves of black Dalmatian pines to climb into a barren land carved into fantastic shapes, sheer cliffs, ravines and caves and crevasses that send shivers down your spine. Yet over 1500 species of plants thrive in the wilderness and animals roam unhampered, from chamois, boar and moufflon to wolves and the occasional bear.

You could scramble up the steep stony trails, accompanied by a guide preferably, hire a horse at Vrata Biokova or drive to the top on a vertiginous single track road. None is for the faint-hearted but your reward is a superb 360° panorama over mountains and sea, islands and lakes and even the Italian coast by clear weather. Rest for a while by the lonely chapel on the summit and look out for old wells and cattle pens, or a rustic inn along the way for a tasty snack of cow cheese, prosciutto ham and chunky bread.

Also within the park but easily reached from Makarska are the Kotisina Botanical Gardens which display the unique plant life of Biokovo. Save a little time to explore the hill villages tucked above the vineyards, among them Topici with its roofs made of white stone, its deserted alleyways and panoramic ‘konoba’ tavern where just before dusk, the traditional peka stew begins to simmer on glowing embers.

Don’t miss Omis
When you head down to the Riviera, you catch your first glimpse of the awesome Dalmatian scenery in Omis. Enclosed by a cirque of forbidding limestone cliffs, the town hugs the banks of the Cetina river as it flows out of the canyon and into the sea, watched by the castle perched on a rocky spur. Climb the 183 steps to the top of the keep and even if you can’t manage the final ladder, you will enjoy brilliant views over the town, the river and the sea. At your feet is a maze of lanes and shaded squares, old archways, steps and tiny gardens clambering up the rock and beyond, the glistening marina and beaches dotted with tamarisk. But the river soon draws you back, its emerald waters flowing placidly under the bridge, canoes splashing colour here and there and a string of tourist boats bobbing at anchor along the banks.

For £3.00, a two hour cruise is a must, leading you through the gorge then up into the main channel, now surprisingly broad, now squeezing through the trees, past reed beds and fishermen’s huts, crumbling watchtowers and precipitous cliffs. You stop at Za Gosle, long enough to walk to the rapids, a few minutes upstream, and listen to the crickets singing in the trees. Refreshments are available and if you feel adventurous, the gorge is ideal for rock climbing and white water rafting.

A spot of culture
Buses along the Riviera run fairly frequently so Omis and neighbouring attractions are within reach. Just beyond Split is the World Heritage city of Trogir, a fascinating mix of medieval, Renaissance and Venetian architecture and a delightful place to amble along waterside boulevards and pedestrian lanes, pop into the museum or the richly decorated cathedral. The locals call it the ‘museum town’ and you would need more than a day to discover all the treasures hidden within the walls.

A few miles away, you come across the extensive ruins of Salona, a Roman city which grew rich on the salt greatly appreciated by Emperor Diocletian. His palace is also a UNESCO site and the most popular tourist haunt in Split, still accessed through the Bronze Gate which once stood at the water’s edge. Over 200 buildings remain, converted over the centuries, and as you walk through the tunnel and back into the light, Roman arches and columns take your breath away. There’s no better way to absorb the past than to stop on the café-terrace at the heart of this ancient colonnaded square.

Sail to the islands
Did you know that Croatia has over 1000 islands? Look out as you prepare to land for they are an amazing sight, so lush and green, long and thin or perfectly circular, bordered by white cliffs and beaches, crisscrossed by tiny ribbons of road that seem to lead to nowhere. You could spend days sailing around this romantic seascape but book a villa on the Riviera and you’ll have no problem finding a cruise to see an island or two.

Lulled by Croatian folk songs, we set off for Hvar on a shiny galleon as the last of the morning mist drifted across the mountains and dolphins frolicked in the bow wave. It took two hours of pure relaxation to reach the fairytale town of Jelsa on the pine-clad and mountainous eastern shore. There were bike and donkey rides on the quay, fishing nets drying in the alleyways, rose gardens, sunflowers, waterside restaurants and colourful Venetian buildings dipping their toes in the sea. The fragrance of lavender lingered on the square and now and then the brightly-coloured parasols fluttered in the breeze.

A cruise to the islands often includes a fish picnic, on land or deck, and ours was delicious. In these clean waters, seafood ranks among the best in Europe, served with salad or risotto, or grilled with herbs and a dash of olive oil. The best local wine comes at a price but has been known to gourmets ever since the ancient Greeks.

We returned via Brac, the third largest island, famous for its stone used to build the White House, and the picturesque resort of Bol clinging to the long broad spit of the Golden Cape, a favourite spot for windsurfers and sun worshippers. Board the land train or a water taxi if you must but the pine-shaded promenade will take you there, dotted with wonderful views over glowing beaches and the turquoise waters of the Adriatic.

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