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Retail Therapy

by Sally Howard

Being addicted to retail therapy in a city at the helm of world haute couture is truly an affliction. But Simona Iulini Levy found the perfect antidote: becoming Milan’s premier personal shopper…

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It may be the axis on which the world’s haute couture turns, but Milan’s famous cobbled fashion streets, claims personal shopper Simona Iulini Levy, are easy to navigate if you have the know-how. Unless, that is, you’re balanced atop towering heels, as I am today, having felt compelled to abandon my functional sneakers in honour of the style-setting Italian city. ‘Yes, if you’re dedicated to fashion, you do wear heels in Milano,’ laughs Simona, as I wrestle my ankle free of a cobble for the forth time in ten minutes.’ Then, with a conspiratorial wink, ‘We have to experience pain for fashion, no?’

Simona Iulini Levy, an impeccably coordinated five foot five, is undoubtedly dedicated to fashion. Having worked for Giorgio Armani and Romeo Gigli in Milan, in 2003 she decided to go it alone as a Milanese personal shopper to the holidaying international elite, hoping to sate her own shopping addiction as a happy extra. Her client list is top secret: ‘my clients, they confide in me,’ Simona trills in her sing-song accented English, ‘and often I become a new ear for their problems, too. Last week I sat in a café with a client for eight hours, just talking, talking…’ It is warmly rumoured, however, that Simona has been called upon to dress a number of Hollywood’s sartorially challenged elite.

‘We are used to good and beautiful things in food, design and fashion in Milan. And we will dress well even to go and buy milk,’ Simona continues, arching her jet-black eyebrows, which rise and fall as she speaks, punctuating her conversation like question marks. ‘The Milanese have their own sense of fashion. Which means mixing something less known with something really trendy and new, perhaps with vintage clothes. Something peculiar for colours and shades.’ Is this not a little complicated for those without Italian blood coursing through their veins? ‘No, it’s simple, a simple science. You can still look like a Milanese bombshell even if you’re buying last season’s lines, if you buy timeless pieces. Certain looks will last a lifetime: a classic navy blazer by Armani; leather driving shoes by Tod’s; or a black Gucci cocktail dress. That’s what it’s about, having a strong basis to your wardrobe – then using shoes, bags and jewels to change the face of your clothes, like make-up.”

Simona tailors her personal shopping days to customer demands: clothes, accessories, antique furniture; even more obscure requests. ‘Yes, I have been asked to shop for dogs’ clothes. We have some bizarre places, such as Francesca Trezzi (www.francescatrezzi.com), with entire collections for dogs. They’re like kids to some people, no?’ But the mainstay of her work, which Simona evidently relishes, is the wardrobe makeover: ‘In half an hour I have to interpret the client, to understand them. Maybe they are mothers, perhaps businesswomen, or celebrities. They have all lost their feminine side, and I give it back to them. And it’s great because we are in a very feminine time in fashion now. We have colours, we have lace, gold – glamorous clothes that can make you happy.’

A self-confessed fine-design fetishist, Simona is certainly a happy shopper. Her passion for Milan’s stores is infectious, calling to mind a breathless Holly Golightly, face illuminated in the light of a Fifth Avenue shop front in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. ‘You know, if I’ve had a stressful day – and I have two young children, so I often have a stressful day – I just go and look at a beautiful pair of shoes and, you know, all the worries go. I feel calm.’ Simona walks us through a little of her favourite Milanese retail therapy below.

Shopping guide
Oro, incenso e mirra (gold, frankinsense and myrrh) Via San Fermo 15, 02/6554492 Sepia walls, the heady scent of incense and a precariously low-slung chandelier serve as the backdrop to Oro’s antique Middle Eastern jewellery, unique light fittings brassware and mid-20th century furniture finds.

Le Solferine Via Solferino 2, 02/655.535 SIMONA: ‘Shoes are my passion, what woman doesn’t love shoes? This shop is great, because a traditional shoe shop, but it’s really directional, it’s great for younger women.’

Abito Qui P.za Mirabello 5 02 29002518 SIMONA: ‘Arbito is a pun. It means, ‘yo abito’ means ‘I live here’, but ‘abito’ alone is a piece of clothing. Giorgio Borgiato and his designer wife Grazi run this shop, and another one nearby. They used to be architects, and now she designs clothes, and he buys great antique furniture and unique housewear and sells it here. It’s great because it’s really hidden away off the square, only this small plaque lets you know it exists.’

Abito Qui 2. V. S. Fermo 9, 02 6590673 A lifestyle/clothing concept store and the sister to Abito Qui. The clothes, an exotic plumage of fine silks, rattans and crepes, are all made in Italy, and impeccably finished. ‘People understand good quality,’ is their moto. The ultimate for the older lady, who has one eye trained on the high fashion barometer, and one on all-weather practicality.’

10 Corso Como 10 Corso Como, 02 653 531. SIMONA: ‘The Corso Como area, to the north-west of central Milan, is increasingly fashionable. I use this shop as a measure of the client. It’s like an Aladdin’s Cave of all styles of contemporary clothes, with something for every age. I watch the way clients’ eyes go. And then I get a good idea of where to take them next. It’s run by Carla Sozzani, the sister of the editor of Vogue Italia, Franca. Carla constantly reinvents her unique mix of shops, grouped around a beautiful courtyard.’ Luisa Beccari, Brera Via Formentini 1, 20121 39-2-876365 The fact that this store is currently undergoing renovation – reducing it to a stark, stripped white interior –only makes Beccari’s exquisite, diaphanous designs more dreamy by contrast. Beccari is the dark horse of Milanese haute couture. Although her girlish, romantic, floral designs have graced the pampered limbs of Catherine Z-J and Sarah Jessica Parker, she’s isn’t – yet – a household name. Get in there before Victoria Beckham’s patronage does…

Le Soulier de Satin Via Formentini 1 20121 Milano T 02 8699 6720 ‘They make unique shoes here… bespoke shoes to order. It’s really hidden. I hope I’m not going the wrong way,’ Simona laughs as we wind up a darkened stairwell, heels resounding hollowly. As we reach the top, tantalising glimpses of light throw up fine shoes serried in obedient ranks, in what seems like a private apartment. ‘You can come here, have a cappuccino, sit on the terrace, as if you’re at a friend’s house. And you get to look at amazing shoes…. Heaven!’

Viktor & Rolf Via Sant’Andrea14 20121 +39 02 796091. SIMONA: ‘This crazy Dutch label exploded here in Milan this year. The store alone is a masterpiece; you feel as though you are entering their universe. Their key pieces on the catwalk this winter are structured suits with big collars. For a simpler look, you can go for one of their silk Grecian dresses or quilted cropped jackets.’

Biffi Corso Genova 6, 39.02.8311.601 SIMONA: ‘I sometimes just go here by myself just to see what’s new and how they display it; it’s an inspiring place. You can buy offbeat younger designers, and more established labels such as Marni and Fendi. The sales (first weekend in Jan) here are very good.’

Shelf awareness
More insider tips from Simona

The Milan sales usually start on the first weekend in January (that’s the 7th in 2006) and last for six weeks at least. The last week is when you’ll find really good bargains. But you won’t come across the hysteria you might in London. “We don’t do hysterics,” says Simona.

The ultimate capsule wardrobe: You need a very good tailor-made jacket that can be matched with jeans and white shirts. A very nice black cocktail dress too, so you are ready for anything. These are the staples.

The Milan furniture fair in April is big news. It gets better every year. Italy strong design history in furniture too. This is definitely one to watch.

Contact Simona at: simona@theartofshopping.it, or on +39 3470600769


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