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With almost 1,200 islands, a Mediterranean climate and crystal clean waters, Croatia is once again one of Europe’s premiere summer vacation areas. The islands, from rocky outposts to lush isles, offer arguably the best yachting in Europe. To cruise the islands in summer is to step back to the glory days when Croatia was the playground of Europe’s elite. Throughout the summer, vessels from 12 foot skiffs to fully appointed luxury yachts are docked in the tiny harbours that pepper the islands. But with so many islands to choose from, where should one steer their yacht?

Hvar
Rocky, rugged, picturesque. The cliffs drop down to secluded bays with jagged rocks and turquoise water. Small villages dot the bays wide enough for small harbours; the white houses with orange roofs creep up the mountainsides. The pace is slow. The locals stop to talk with friends stationed at their regular tables with small, empty cups of coffee on them. Nobody is rushing; the weather is still warm, and the sunlight is bright against the pale buildings, making you squint even with sunglasses on.

Located just off the central Dalmatian coast, Hvar has fast become the island of choice for the upmarket international crowd. It receives an incredible 2,724 hours of sunlight a year yet is one of the greenest islands in Croatia. Very attractive is Hvar Town, which has a long seaside promenade and numerous rocky beaches and tiny bays.

Get your bearings with a view from the 16th century fortress; it overlooks Hvar Town and provided the locals with safety during times of siege. Then, explore the narrow streets that fan out from the piazza. You’ll find small galleries, lovingly made arts and crafts, wine sellers, and locally produced olive oil. The Hvar Theatre, founded in 1612 and the first public theatre in Europe, is housed on top of the old Arsenal and worth a visit, as is the cathedral, town hall, and the Franciscan Monastery.

But it’s the coastline that deserves the most exploration, for there are numerous bays to explore and also small islands which sometimes have simply a lighthouse and nothing else.

www.hvar.hr

Korčula
Located in southern Dalmatia, Korčula is one of the most diverse islands you’ll find anywhere. The dense forests lead down to indented coves while the rolling hills are peppered with vineyards, olive groves, and fields and fruits, cereals and vegetables. Traditional island culture still flourishes and the devout local population often partake of age-old religious ceremonies, so much so that in all the villages and hamlets, it seems every night is given over to song and dance.

The gem of the island, apart from the numerous deserted coves and bays, is Korčula Town. With its defensive towers and its cluster of red-roofed houses, it’s like a miniature Dubrovnik. The town hugs a small peninsular jutting out into the Adriatic, will the old town ringed by the metallic blue sea. The town requires a few days of relaxed exploration but if you want to escape this relative hustle and bustle, head out to the western edge of the island to the stunning Vela Luka Bay.

www.korcula.hr

Brijuni Islands
This group of twelve islands off the west coast of Istria is a national park and visitor numbers are strictly controlled. Only the two larger islands, Veli Brijun and Mali Brijun can be visited. During the days of communist Yugoslavia, these islands were the second residence of Maršal Tito, and it was here that he entertained world leaders and celebrities like Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Tito had the flora and fauna set up to his own liking and so there are now elephants, zebras and antelopes strolling amongst the 680 species of imported plants.

The islands have incredible natural beauty and remain a strange place because of the imported inhabitants and the islands’ history. In the last five years, the international yachting crowd has taken to Brijuni and in high season the yachts sometimes jostle for docking positions. It’s best to visit in the late spring or early autumn, before or after the summer rush. The Brijuni Polo Classic, an international polo tournament dating back to 1924, was revived in 2004 and now takes place every year in July.

www.brijuni.hr

Mljet
Be warned. If you visit the island of Mljet, you might become ensnared by its seductive allure and find yourself travelling back every year. It is visually stunning but there is something intangible about the place, something you can never quite put your finger on; but you think that if you visit the island again and again, you might finally figure out what it is. Odysseus stayed here seven years, and Prince Charles is also reportedly smitten with the island.

Over 72 percent of the island is covered in forest with the rest interspersed with vineyards and fields. The western half is now a national park, saving this natural wonderland from high-rise developments and the other trappings of tourism. The two spectacular saltwater lakes at the island’s western end, Malo Jezero and Veliko Jezero, are what draw the visitors. They are connected to the sea by a canal and are subject to tidal changes. There is a Benedictine monastery in the middle of Veliko Jezero and the Church of St Mary which is now a restaurant. There are also some interesting diving opportunities with a Roman wreck dating from the 3rd century and a Germany torpedo boat from World War II.

www.np-mljet.hr

Vis
With most of Croatia’s islands located within striking distance from the coast, sometimes with just a short ferry ride across, other times with a bridge, Vis offers the allure of the isolated. Set further out in the Adriatic, the island also has the fascination of the forbidden, having been a military base and off limits to the public until 1989. There are two interesting small towns, Vis and Komiža, both at the foot of large bays. The rest of the island’s rugged coast is dotted with coves and there are, like on all of Croatia’s islands, only a few sand beaches. But with that, you’ll never find beaches with people stacked cheek by jowl either.

www.tz-vis.hr

Lošinj
Located in the gulf of Kvarner, Lošinj is the pick of the numerous picturesque islands accessed from Rijeka. Both Krk, Cres and Rab are all worth visiting but Lošinj remains the most strikingly beautiful. The island is connected by ferry with Venice and thus the Italians come in droves in the summer. But they normally stick to Mali Lošinj and bask on the pine tree ringed beaches of Čikat Bay and leave the rest of this beautiful isle unexplored. Interesting day trips can be taken to the nearby islands of Susak and Ilovik, where local life seems untouched by the modern changes of fast paced Europe and the bays are deserted. It will probably be here, docked in one of the bays of Susak or while exploring the coast of Lošinj that you’ll be tempted to throw your laptop and mobile phone overboard.

www.losinj.hr

Sailing the Adriatic
There is no better way to see Croatia, the coastline and the islands, than by yacht. There are so many secluded coves and bays to explore. You’ll also enjoy deep channels which make sailing uncomplicated, steady winds and abundant anchorage. There are numerous quaint harbour towns where the dock puts you right in the town’s centre and good service at the main marinas. But there are some rules to follow.

You can row, motor or sail any vessel up to three metres long without authorisation in Croatia, but for longer vessels, an authorisation from the harbour master at you port of entry is required. Make sure you bring your boat certificate, the relevant documents which prove your sailing qualifications, and insurance documents. Also, a little bit of money to throw around when things get difficult doesn’t go astray.

There are 50 marinas along the coast, most with modern facilities and technical services. These are open throughout the year but it is always best to check in advance, especially in the off-season winter months when many of the locals don’t sail. If you are interested in chartering a boat, there are over 140 charter companies in Croatia as well as numerous companies located abroad. These boats can be chartered with a captain on a ‘skippered’ basis or without a captain on a ‘bareboat’ basis. To skipper a chartered vessel yourself, you must possess a valid recreational craft license and a radio certificate which can be obtained from all port authorities. Upon renting a vessel, you must fill out and certify a crew list; any changes to this list must be reported to the port authority.

For more information, visit the website of the Croatian Association of Nautical Tourism at www.hgk.hr or email them at hgkri@hgk.hr.

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