Articles > New Caledonia

I was tired, overworked and stressed – and in desperate need of a holiday. There was a five day window of opportunity before the work onslaught would recommence, so time was precious. I wanted tropical – palm trees, warm water, underwater vistas. But I also craved exotica – a foreign language, a cultural challenge, good food.

That discounted most of the Pacific. On this occasion, Fiji and its coconut simplicity just wouldn’t cut it.

But New Caledonia – perfect! A two and a half hour flight from Sydney – just long enough for a glass of French wine and a movie. No visas, no vaccinations. Tropical waters, the promise of white sandy beaches … with a bit of French ooh la la thrown in for good measure. Long weekend, here I come!

New Caledonia is Australia’s closest foreign neighbour, located north-east of Brisbane on the Tropic of Capricorn. It’s been part of France for about 150 years, which might explain why most Australians know so little about it. It consists of a handful of islands - the beautiful coral atolls Ouvea, Lifou, Mare and Tiga, which make up the Loyalty Islands; the sublime Ile des Pins, known rightfully as the ‘Jewel of the Pacific’; and the main island, Grande Terre, a long strip of land surrounded by the world’s second largest barrier reef. Noumea, the main city and capital of the territory, is located on the south-west coast of this island, while the rest of the island consists of mountains, seaside villages and rambling cattle ranches.

A visit to the outlying islands requires more time and commitment than I could afford, so unfortunately, they remain visions from a brochure - unspoilt, simple, picture-postcard perfect, places on my “must-do” list for when my schedule becomes less hectic. Most visitors to New Caledonia do pop over to the Isle of Pines for at least two days, and I would certainly recommend this to those craving palm trees, crystal clear waters and the sensation of fine, white sand between the toes.

My brief holiday, however, was restricted to Noumea and its surrounds - and it was an experience that really took me by surprise. My expectations of a hokey Pacific outpost – think Nuka’lofa in Tonga – were so far off mark it wasn’t funny. I’d expected shell markets and coconuts, mangy dogs and rampaging roosters. What I didn’t expect was sophistication, order and wealth. If there’s poverty in Noumea, I certainly didn’t come across it – the city, with its wide clean streets, chic bayside restaurants, French cars and terraced modern apartment blocks overlooking several marinas, really deserves its tag of “a 1st world city in the 3rd world”.

Nearly half of the entire population of New Caledonia – 213,000 in all - is based in Noumea, most of them of European origin. The city’s wealth comes largely from the nickel-mining industry, which also provides the bulk of employment. Unlike other Pacific nations, New Caledonia does not rely on the tourist industry for survival – in fact, tourism is still in its infancy, which may, in fact, be the cause of frustration for some visitors.

For instance, the city is a good 40 minutes from the airport, which makes for an expensive cab ride to your hotel. There is really no alternative, so either pre-arrange a transfer, or be prepared to cop a $150 fare. Then there’s the shopping – or lack thereof. Yes, you can buy duty free French goods such as perfumes or clothing, but they are still outrageously expensive and certainly no bargain. There are few handicrafts to talk of – and the only so-called local products appear to be imported Tahitian pareos (sarongs) and shell jewellery. The fashions? Well, if you’re into the loud ‘Mother Hubbard’ designs of the local Kanak women, you’ll be in heaven! I can proudly say that for the first time in a 25 years history of travelling, this shopaholic returned with no useless souvenirs or nick-knacks – but not for want of trying!

I was also surprised how few of the locals speak English – my lousy high school French barely cut it outside of major hotels and restaurants. I must admit, however, that I found this a wonderful challenge – I wanted exotica, after all, and here it was in abundance!

Then there is the delicate subject of money. New Caledonia, being French, is expensive – but certainly not as prohibitively as Tahiti. The average price for a main meal in a restaurant is about $40; and expect to pay at least that for a very average bottle of French plonk. A beer will cost you around 500 francs (or $7 Aussie dollars) in a hotel; while a coffee is around 400 francs, or $5 dollars.

For those on a budget, however, is it possible to be well sated by heading to a local charcuterie, or delicatessen, and stocking up on continental cheeses and cold meats, as well as delicious French bread and wine. What could be more European than a picnic on a pebbly beach, watching windsurfers and overtanned men and women frolicking in the blue, warm waters?!

Mind you, Australians in search of a tropical paradise may be a little disappointed by the strips of sand that pass for beaches in Noumea. They are fabulous places for people watching – the locals adore the beach lifestyle, and there’s nothing quite like having a real French-style coffee overlooking a crowded beach. To find the stuff of postcards, however – the palm trees, the deserted white sand lapped by aquamarine waters – you need to travel further afield, to the Ile des Pins or to the Loyalties.

A closer option, and an extremely popular excursion, is a day trip to lovely Amadee Island, a sandy coral cay situated near one of the only natural passages in the 1600 km barrier reef. This lovely dot, overlooking a marine reserve brimming with sea life, is dominated by a magnificent lighthouse, transported piece by piece from Paris in 1865. It’s certainly worth hauling yourself up the 247 cast iron steps to take in the view from the top, particularly at low tide when the surrounding reef is magnificently showcased.

While New Caledonia doesn’t need tourism, tourism in the Pacific certainly needs it – a fact that entrepreneurial operators are starting to recognise and exploit. Given an injection of capital, a dose of innovation and some creative planning, New Caledonia could one day rival its big sister Tahiti as the luxury destination of choice, particularly for Australian visitors.

According to George Dechaineux, the executive manager of the brand new Ramada Plaza in bayside Anse Vata, this development could take 10 years. George, who forged his career in the islands of French Polynesia, sees New Caledonia as an exciting challenge, and welcomes the opportunity of being a pioneer in what is largely virgin tourist territory. George’s aim is to create a luxury, service-based product, one that offers value for money and a point of difference from other Pacific nations.

At the moment, that point of difference is the French culture – particularly French cuisine. The Ramada, along with Air Caledonie Holidays, offers a gourmet package to entice Australian visitors, featuring two dinners at its revolving restaurant, 360-Degrees, plus a dinner at the legendary L’Eau Vive du Pacifique - a bizarre little restaurant run by singing nuns! The Ramada Plaza also offers the only luxury spa facility in Noumea, featuring delicious holistic treatments using the finest European products. The hotel suites are all modern and spacious, with kitchenettes and laundry facilities to cut down on in-house expenses.

Another property that has jumped on the luxury bandwagon is Coral Palms Island Resort, located on a small private island just 15 minutes by boat from Noumea. This is the first resort in New Caledonia to embrace the Tahitian overwater bungalow style – but it definitely will not be the last! The 25 luxury bungalows, which offer direct access to a pristine emerald lagoon, are constantly in demand, particularly from honeymooners seeking privacy and romance. The resort also offers 14 Ocean View rooms and 30 Garden View rooms, all recently refurbished, as well as a gourmet restaurant located by a magnificent pool.

There’s not much to do on Coral Palms except to lie in the sun, swim and relax. You can circumnavigate the island on foot in about half an hour, pausing to watch local kite-surfers in action, skimming across the lagoon and leaping into the air with jaw-dropping aerobatic agility. You can also don snorkelling gear for underwater exploration; the fish-life is impressive, though the coral is better experienced closer to the reef.

Once again, the emphasis at Coral Palms is on eating well. Its restaurant is highly regarded, and is popular with Noumeans who flock over by private boat or ferry on Saturday night. I was impressed that the locals have embraced this resort and its facilities – it felt like I was privy to local knowledge, which, as we know, is always the most reliable!

Back on the mainland, I was in for a surprise of a different kind – the magnificent Tjibaou Cultural Centre. There are few buildings in the world that can literally stop me, gobsmacked, in my tracks – this is one. Designed by the celebrated Italian architect Renzo Piano (best known for the Pompidou Centre in Paris), this amazing structure is a modern representation of ancient Kanak ‘Great Houses’, featuring ten wooden towers soaring majestically above the surrounding canopy. The building, which houses galleries, display rooms, lecture halls and a research centre, blends perfectly into the environment, emphasising Piano’s sensitivity to the local kanak culture and eco-system. It is also designed to be self-ventilating, perfectly situated to catch the prevailing breeze.

If there’s one must-see in Noumea, this amazing building is it. It’s a world-class facility, one which the Pacific should be proud of – up there with the Sydney Opera House as a unique cultural icon.

I came home from my brief sojourn to New Caledonia suntanned, two kilos heavier and well and truly relaxed. Mission accomplished. What I hadn’t expected was to be intrigued – to return wanting more. While it certainly qualifies as a short break winter destination, there’s more to this island country than just its capital city Noumea. Next time, I’ll take my time and explore further afield – delving deeper into the local culture, going off the beaten track, and finding that perfect, palm-lined beach. Some things you just can’t hurry.

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