Australasia > Australia > Queensland > Whitsunday Islands > Sailing > Articles > Sailing the Whitsundays

Let me say up front that I am not a sailor. Even if I win $21 million in Saturday’s Lotto draw, a yacht won’t be high on my list of ‘must have’ purchases. To me, it seems like too much hard work, too slow, too confining as a means of adventure. Not to mention the claustrophobia and extreme sea sickness I suffer, the thought of which leaves me green before even leaving the dock.

So it was with some trepidation that I accepted a trip to the Whitsundays featuring a night on a luxury yacht. However, a good journalist must embrace all challenges … so armed with a herbal travel sickness remedy, I prepared for a night of silent torture and fake smiles of enjoyment.

All hail Travacalm! And all hail the Pacific Sunrise! Between them, they have cured my phobia about life on the high seas. Not only did I manage to get through my 24 hours on board – I didn’t want it to end! Finally, I could understand the lure of sailing – at least, at this level of luxury. It was, in a word (or two) … sheer bliss.

The Pacific Sunrise is a fantasy 28 metre tropical trader with soaring masts, shiny hardwood decks and plush fittings. Yet just two years ago, this pretty Fijian-built vessel was little more than a wreck, neglected at a New Zealand marina with a gaping hole in her stern. Most potential buyers considered her too risky an investment … until Tasmanian master shipwright Dan Baker came along and saw beyond the rotting woodwork and oozing engine to a vision of her former glory.

It took seven months and bucketloads of cash to get the Pacific Sunrise sea-worthy; and another six months finessing her for the job at hand. Yet for Dan and his first mate Kate, the back-breaking labour and occasional heartbreak were all part of fulfilling a dream – and living a passion which they are now thrilled to share with the world.

The moment you step on board the now fully-restored Pacific Sunrise, this passion is evident, not just in the genial attitude of the hosts, but also in the level of luxury. Whereas most boats this size accommodate up to 40 guests, this one features just eight suites – most the size of a regular hotel room, with ensuite bathrooms and air-conditioning. All but two have double or queen size beds instead of bunks, and they are all tastefully decorated with artefacts collected during voyages through the South Pacific.

Accommodating so few guests, there’s plenty of room to spread out, enjoy the views and soak up the winter sun. There’s a library and DVD room in case of bad weather, a roomy dining room, and a comfy back-deck where we lounged for hours, observing dolphins and even three humpback whales that made an on-cue appearance for our cameras.

Meals on the Pacific Sunrise also far outstripped my expectations, with gourmet delights such as local painted crayfish, beer-battered bugs, spanikopita with béarnaise sauce and freshly made salads. The aroma of home-baked bread and muffins wafts temptingly in the salt-sea breeze, and there’s a seemingly endless supply of bubbly and delicious fruit-based cocktails on hand.

The Pacific Sunrise sails through the heritage-listed Whitsunday region, as well as out to the Great Barrier Reef on a six-night journey. Our brief sojourn between Hayman and Hamilton Islands included an overnight mooring off sublimely beautiful Whitehaven Beach, truly a miracle of nature with its 99% percent pure silica sand. We also stopped for a bracing snorkel off Border Island, which delighted with its impressive array of coral and abundant fish life.

As the Pacific Sunrise gracefully rode the admittedly quite choppy seas (have I mentioned how effective Travacalm is?!) I was struck with an obvious, yet compelling epiphany – the Whitsundays region is incredibly, mindblowingly beautiful, a place to pause and admire one of nature’s most eloquent expressions. The azure waterway is dotted with 74 continental islands, largely pristine wildernesses with forested peaks and isolated white beaches. Civilisation in the region is sparing, yet seems to be strategically and conveniently placed to capitalise on the yachting traffic. Bareboaters can call into Hamilton Island for supplies or Hayman Island for a night of indulgence, or moor at the lovely Peppers Palm Bay Resort, where they can use laundry facilities as well as enjoying a delicious gourmet meal.

For landlubbers like myself, the Whitsundays are equally seductive from shore, with a range of accommodation for every budget. Topping the list is Hayman Island, which for years has carried the reputation as Australia’s premier luxury resort. This island prides itself on its superlative levels of service and accommodation, and in particular for its incredible kitchen which boasts 50 international and Australian chefs.

For the gourmand, Hayman is a tour-de-force, with five restaurants to choose from including an Asian restaurant centred around a ceremonial tea house, an Italian trattoria, and La Fontaine, the island’s signature restaurant offering formal dining amid Louis XVI furnishings and Waterford crystal chandeliers.

Hayman’s management appreciate that many of their guests are seeking new and sophisticated dining experiences, and are constantly introducing innovative ideas to seduce food and wine lovers. The famed Chef’s Table is now a regular weekly experience, with diners invited to experience a six course banquet in the very heart of the island – its kitchen.

For our night of indulgence, Executive Chef Michael James prepared a magnificent surprise – a Middle Eastern feast in a beachfront cabana decked out as a Bedouin tent, resplendent with Persian carpets and billowing drapes. The menu followed the spice route from Asia through to Africa, the Mediterranean and the Middle East, and included spiced lamb and mint ravioli, a tajine of chicken with saffron and dates, and a red wine glazed beef tenderloin served with pomegranates and couscous. Simply, and exotically delicious! The meal was accompanied by sublime Australian and New Zealand white wines and topped off with baklava and Turkish delight scented with rose water.

More like a small township than a resort, Hamilton Island also offers a range of dining options, from pizzas at the marina to its beautifully-located signature restaurant, the Beach House. With views to die for, and the sound of water lapping just metres away, the Beach House is an evocative, if pricey place to dine (with entrees starting from $21, mains from $32 and dessert from $19) – perfect for a night of indulgence. But with at least 10 other restaurants on the island, guests will never be starved for choice – or starved, full-stop!

Hamilton is the largest inhabited island in the Whitsundays, and the only one with an airport, so little wonder it’s considered the gateway to the region. It has a choice of four hotels ranging from three to five star, plus there’s a range of self-contained apartments and villas available. The stylish five-star Beach Club is the piece-de-resistance, superbly located on the beachfront at Catseye Beach and featuring an exclusive bar and restaurant overlooking a private infinity edge pool. This is a couple’s only getaway – no kids allowed.

Hamilton is, however, primarily a family destination – the children will never be bored, with a plethora of activities including go-karts, a flying fox, a golf driving range and, of course, watersports to keep them occupied.

In complete contrast is the intimate and romantic Peppers Palm Bay – a child-free zone. And with good reason – there’s nothing to do here! Blissfully so … this resort is about chilling out, reading a book in the winter sunshine, perhaps going for a quiet dip in the calm sea, or lying by the pool. Little wonder it’s so popular with honeymooners – during the day, you’re unlikely to run across any other guests from the 21 secluded bungalows.

Once again, a delicious gourmet meal was on our agenda – and our (ever-expanding) stomachs were more than satisfied! The young chef at Peppers Palm Bay has exquisite flavour and subtlety down to a fine art, serving up a tasting menu featuring delectable delights such as ravioli of braised rabbit with truffle, burnt butter and sage, steamed duck Maryland in szechuan batter, and soy and mustard infused lamb rump.

Back on the mainland, Airlie Beach has long been considered a stepping off point to the Whitsundays, a backpacker haven with a lively and somewhat lowbrow atmosphere. But times are a’changing – real estate prices are booming, the millionaires are moving in, tastes are becoming more sophisticated, and Airlie Beach is starting to be viewed as a destination in its own right. The village is a veritable construction site, with new waterfront apartments and hillside resorts being built to capitalise on the stunning views, and marinas planned to house the multi-millionaire dollar yachting trade.

The newest kid on the block – and the first international name in town – is Azure Sea Whitsundays, a Mercure property run by the Accor group. Located a little out of town in a new development, these luxury apartments offer contemporary sophistication in a family-friendly environment. Each apartment is superbly fitted out with European appliances and quality linens, with large balconies embracing uninterrupted views over the Coral Sea. The three-bedroom penthouse is simply enormous, comfortably sleeping six, and features the biggest plasma screen TV imaginable! There’s also a gymnasium and 20 metre infinity-edged pool and spa that make a longer stay even more appealing.

But don’t think a state-of-the-art kitchen, a full sized dining table and a big telly could entice me to eat in – oh no, my gourmet tour of the Whitsundays still had a few more calories to go! Final stop for my now enormous belly was the Verandah restaurant, located on the waterfront at Airlie Beach. This brand new brasserie easily compares with the best city restaurants, with a sophisticated menu, an extensive cocktail list and quality wines served by the glass. Head chef Murray Williams has worked for famous Sydney restaurants Bistro Moncur, Claudes and the Manly Pier, and his experience at adapting modern cuisines shows in the diverse and interesting menu. And the good news? – it’s all very affordable, with entrees around $14 and mains from $22.

For me, a good holiday is one where I come back relaxed, tanned and satisfied, both aesthetically and physically. The Whitsundays provided all this and more – around five kilos more, I do believe! But over and above the great food, the excellent accommodation and the exemplary service I experienced in each destination, the beauty and tranquillity of the region really stood out. Australia really is very lucky to have such a jewel in its crown.

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