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The first rays of sunlight filter through autumn leaves, russet and gold, impaling the early morning mist. Alongside the smooth gravel road, an ancient wooden waterwheel turns methodically, an effective watering system taming the boulder-strewn river running parallel. Also dotting the path are two-metre high piles of rocks, ‘wishing stones’ carefully placed over the centuries by scholars, traders and government officials as they made their slow descent over the rugged mountain pass.

This is the Mungyeong Saejae – the original trading route running south between Seoul and Busan in central South Korea. Now exclusively the domain of tourists, this road - dating from the Joseon period of the 15th century - still bears an ambience of mystery, secrecy and history. It comes as no surprise to discover that this beautiful parkland has been used as a film set – one half expects ninjas to fly backwards through the maples, crouching tigers and hidden dragons emerging from the shadows of the three imposing gateways marking the route.

Strangely enough, our small group of Australian journalists are the only pilgrims gracing this tree-lined roadway on this beautiful autumn morning. For the first time in a week, we are not sharing the experience with the hordes of Korean schoolchildren and geriatrics who flock to Korea’s many National Treasures. Simply a case of good luck and early rising – but it was certainly a rare and precious experience of ancient and natural Korea at its unadulterated best.

To their credit, Koreans are incredibly proud of their history and frequent significant sites with a fervour unfamiliar to most Australians. During its opening month, the brand new National Museum of Korea celebrated by offering local Seoul residents free entry. Queues on a Sunday stretched for over a kilometre – and people were prepared to wait patiently for the privilege.

In historic Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, entrances to age-old monuments host a constant stream of visitors. Happy, chattering children seem oblivious to the significance of their school excursion, focused more on posing for foreign cameras than on their requisite studies. Enroute to hilltop temples, nimble octogenarians forge up giant stone steps, testament to the age-defying powers of tai chi and ginseng. Like the children, they are full of curiosity about the ‘foreigners’ gracing their shores, and are proud that their history and culture is of interest to outsiders.

The historic city of Gyeongju, in the south of the province, is the most visited destination in South Korea outside of Seoul. It is often compared to Kyoto in Japan – the cultural heart of the country, a ‘museum without walls’ where ancient traditions are still embraced and on display for all to experience.

Gyeongju was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla, which arose at the turn of the 1st millennium and ruled most of the Korean Peninsula from the 7th to the 10th centuries. During its heyday, it was home to around a million people, and its prosperity was reported as far away as Egypt.

Today, much of the city is designated World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO, and is considered of profound historical importance. Many of its treasures are located in the heart of the city, conveniently all within walking distance; a short bus ride of about 20 kilometres will get you to its other mesmerising sights.

What appears to be gentle hills dotted around parkland in the centre of the city are in fact 23 royal Silla tombs. The most famous is known as the Cheonmachong, or the Heavenly Horse Tomb, which was excavated in 1973 and yielded over 10,000 treasures (most of which are now in the Gyeongju National Musuem). It is named after a particularly exquisite find, a saddle flap featuring a painted flying horse. This was a symbol indicating the high standing of the person buried – the belief being that horses which carried rulers on earth would revive in the afterlife and show their abilities by flying through the air.

A short walk from the tombs is a bottle-shaped stone erection – the Cheomseongdae Observatory. This is Asia’s oldest observatory, dating from the 7th century and built in the reign of Queen Seondeok. What appears to be a simple, chimney-like design in fact conceals subtle scientific significance – the 12 stones at the bottom symbolise the months of the year, and there are 30 layers from top to bottom – one for every day of the month. And of course, there are 366 stones used in its construction – one for each day of the year, give or take a few hours!

Tour groups will inevitably join the throng making its way up nearby Mt Tohamsan to one of Korea’s most cherished temples – Bulguksa (meaning Buddha Land). This beautiful complex is said to be the essence of Silla Culture, exemplifying its refined arts and Buddhist beliefs. Here, you’ll become aware of just how many National Treasures Korea actually has – every stair, pagoda and statue seems to have a numbered listing! (there are in fact 307 Korean National Treasures – six of which are found at this one temple!)

Korea’s Buddhist heritage is best observed at Seokguram Grotto, located at the top of the mountain. This artificial granite cave, constructed over 30 years from 751, features a 3.48 metre seated image of Buddha, cross-legged, serene-featured and undeniably beautiful. Unfortunately, recently-installed glass panelling restricts access to the statue, and photography of the image is banned. During our visit, locals had gathered inside the tiny grotto for a Buddhist ceremony, brightly-coloured lanterns decorating the ceiling, and the aroma of wafting incense adding to the spiritual ambience.

Gyeongju is not just about historic monuments and treasures – it also attempts to bring history alive by inviting visitors to share in ancient Silla artistic pursuits. At the Gyeongju Folk Handicraft Village, you can observe and even participate in the making of traditional ceramics – a fun and messy activity - or browse in 17 shops selling metalware, jewellery, wooden crafts and embroidery.

Folk dance performances are held daily at the Bomun Outdoor Performance Space, a crescent-shaped stage in the shadow of a five-storey pagoda in the centre of town. Beautiful young girls, clad in traditional wide-sleeved and heavily embroidered dresses, perform delicate fan and flower dances, while the climax is undoubtedly the dramatic Three Drums Dance, a high-energy performance combining rhythmic dexterity with acrobatic movement.

Further north in Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, the focus shifts to another era of historic significance – the 500 year Confucian period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Buseoksa Temple near Yeongju was built by the Great Priest Uisang in 676, and features one of Korea’s oldest wooden buildings (as well as four other National Treasures). Located on an imposing hilltop (count the 108 steps as you ascend!) this beautiful site – known as the Perfect Temple – offer spectacular views across the countryside from its many terraces and pagodas.

There’s an enchanting legend associated with this temple. According to folklore, when the monk Uisang was studying in Tang China, he caught the eye of a young maiden named Seonmyo – but being a confirmed man of god, their love was never to be. Having reached a state of profound enlightenment, Uisang returned by ship to Silla. In despair at losing her beloved, Seonmyo threw herself into the sea, becoming a dragon and protecting the monk on his journey home.

During construction of the temple in Yeongju, many pagans apparently tried to stop Uisang from completing his task. Just as failure seemed imminent, the dragon appeared, emerging from under a giant stone and defeating the pagans. The stone – located near the main temple – is now known as Buseok, meaning ‘floating rock’. Indeed, it does appear to be floating, unattached, above the pile of rocks below.

To immerse yourself in Korean culture and even more of its history, a visit to the Seonbichon Scholar’s Village at Yeongju is a must. Adjoining a wonderful old Confucian shrine and school, Seonbichon is a recreated village designated as a teaching place for traditional beliefs and arts. It features a craft centre (with calligraphy and tea-ceremony classes), a market place, traditional games such as tuho (a mixture between archery and darts) and food stalls serving traditional Korean fare. Accommodation in traditional houses is also available for those wanting a complete cultural experience.

Absorbing Korea’s complex and rather confusing history is a major undertaking for most western visitors. While the province of Gyeongsangbuk-do will provide an overview of 1000 years of history, you may well be exhausted by the complexity of the data found in its temples, museums and artisans village.

To consolidate all that information, and to put it all into a concise perspective, pay a visit to Seoul’s National Museum of Korea. In this attractive and spacious modern facility, it should all start to make sense. If not, just enjoy the aesthetics of the experience – the colour, richness and beauty of traditional Korea in all its glory!

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