Australasia > Australia > Victoria > Melbourne > Articles > Walkin Birrarung Tour

Looking at the Melbourne concrete and steel skyline it is hard to imagine what our city looked like prior to European settlement. With the hills and valleys of the surroundings either obscured by highrise buildings or removed all together, creeks that once flowed into the Yarra river now hidden below the busy city streets, and waterfalls that formed a natural bridge now only marked by man-built steel versions, it would take either a leap back in time or a gifted guide to peel back the layers and reveal a view of Melbourne¡¦s indigenous landscape.<> It was therefore a great privilege to meet up with Faye June Ball from the Koorie Heritage Trust and enjoy her revealing tales as we took the Walkin Birrarung tour.<> Faye happily describes herself as example of ¡§Physical Reconciliation¡¨, embracing both her Irish and Ingenious heritage. We meet in the shadow of the scarred polls in Enterprise Park next to the Melbourne Aquarium. The polls have been decorated by Victorian Indigenous artists, and poignantly represent various aspects of the indigenous community¡¦s life in Victoria. They are also a sad reminder of the river reds that once lined the river bank, and are positioned to mark the original river edge of the Turning Basin. The ¡§Turnin¡¦ Basin¡¨ a once natural expansion in the river that the European arrivals used to maneuver their ships.<> It would be an error to refer to Victoria¡¦s indigenous community as one group. Highlighting my shameful lack of knowledge of the history of my home state, Faye shares the fact that Victoria is in fact made up of over 30 countries, each with their own language, social moiety (totem) and traditions. The city of Melbourne is home to five separate countries, that combine to represent the ¡§Kulin¡¨ nation.<> As we cross the Yarra river using the Queens bridge we are in fact traveling from the Woiwurrung country to the Bonnerwrung country, in the same way that the indigenous community would have traversed the river for centuries. For before there was a Queens bridge, this section of the river was marked by a waterfall. This natural barrier separated the rivers fresh water from the sea water while also providing a convenient bridge.<> The countries that make up the Kulin nation share commonality of language of between 60-70% of words and phrases. Unfortunately our early European arrivals weren¡¦t listening too closely to these new words, and we have ended up with the Kulin word for waterfall ¡§Yarra¡¨ as the name of this waterway!<> Faye paints a picture of the area pre-1835 as we stroll the concrete path along Southbank. Along this side of the river, lush wetlands provided food for both the family groups and small communities that lived in the region. The neighboring Art Centre had to be designed to ¡§float¡¨ on these still existing but now hidden wetlands.<> The vegetation that so aptly supported the indigenous communities along the river is sadly gone, but we have a surprising reminder. Planted around the entrance to the Esso building at Southbank is a native garden rich in vegetation that the indigenous communities would have used as food, medicine and protection. The garden was designed with the assistance of the Royal Botanical Gardens and includes Sugar trees and Banksia trees, of which the flowers can be made into a restorative energy drink.<> Before heading back to the Cultural Centre, we make one last stop on the Princess Bridge looking towards the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground. This has always been a location for the community to come together. Long before the stadium was considered, the indigenous Victorian communities met on these grounds for Corriboree¡¦s.<> The walk is a gentle, enlightening experience that puts the city of Melbourne into a totally different prospective. It¡¦s a wonderful opportunity to let the concrete and steel, the crowds and the noise drift into the background and learn the stories of the Kulin nation ¡V after all this is Victoria¡¦s history.<>

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