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The rain is pouring down heavily from dark, low-hanging clouds above the rooftops of Barcelona, drops of water rushing through the streets and crashing against shop windows. It is not even 10pm in the Catalonian capital, but streets are deserted, locals probably observing safely from behind their windows this freak summer storm. Crossing Plaça de la Universitat, I pull out my black Cram Hotel (a modernist hotel in the Eixample district) umbrella, brave the furious wind in search of a local eatery, make a right on Carrer de Pelai and find happily a yellow sign flashing “D’Or. Tapas, Bocadillos, Cerveses”. The interior suggests a familiar, old style hang-out for locals rather than tourists. I dry myself, grab a stool and order grilled fish, pintxos (snacks) and a beer. I smile to the waitress. It is time to chill, finally.

Pinpointing what makes up the soul of a large city is the fun, stimulating part of being a tourist, I think. Driving from the airport several hours earlier, I pick up my first clues: the Catalonian flag with its four horizontal red stripes and gold background fluttering alongside the official Spanish flag, a giant ad of Ronaldinho in his Barça football shirt advertising for Nike and construction cranes supporting a new development project. A city shaped by heritage, pride and innovation.

Barcelona is Mediterranean and cosmopolitan: it exudes the bohemian spirit of an old commercial port but at the same time evinces a sense of trendy, international glamour not seen in most cities along the Mediterranean coast. The municipality of Barcelona has executed supremely well a process of re-generation and transformation beginning post-Franco’s death in 1975, continuing with the 1992 Olympics which saw a giant aesthetic operation along its seafront and progressing to this day, with a strategic plan to brighten up and re-develop yet more districts, without compromising on the city’s original charm. The inspiring and successful results have resonated well with tourists and businessmen, art lovers and VIPs. It’s an encouraging example of urban renewal.

Barcelona is home of some of the most striking examples of Modernist architecture. I had studied at school the 19th neo-classicism of the Academy, and subsequent reaction against it, in terms of style and subject matter, through the works of the French impressionist painters. However, it is this trip to Barcelona that opened my eyes to the creative and eclectic styles of artists seeking a new language through architecture. I was vaguely familiar with Antonio Gaudi (the structural harmony, anthropomorphic shapes and colourful chimney stacks of Casa Batllo, the sinuous curves and iron rails of Casa Mila, the magic world and coloured ceramics of Park Guell overlooking the city and of course the unfinished church of La Sagrada Familia), but not at all with Lluis Domenech I Montaner, whose Palau de la Musica Catalana completely blew me away (3 years to build, 30 artisans involved, 100+ yrs old, the “garden of music”, tribute to Catalan music, light streaming through stained glass, spectacular ceiling) or Puig I Cadafalch (Casa de les Punxes, Casa Amatller).

While bronze statues of honourable men punctuate London squares, colourful public artworks/sculptures seem to be the preferred choice in Barcelona. That aspect of the city reminds me more of Chicago (Picasso, Miro, Chagall, etc…) and new business enclaves of La Defence in Paris or Canary Wharf in London. Those seen on this trip included the cartoonish Barcelona Head by pop artist Roy Lichtenstein in the marinas of Port Well, the delicate David i Goliath by Antoni Llena and the golden Peix by Frank Gerhi (both near the Hotel Arts) and the mosaic by Miro near the Boqueria.

So many sites to see, so little time in four days! The Mercat de la Boqueria off La Rambla de Sant Josep is my first stop on Day 2. What must be the jewel of Barcelona’s network of municipal food markets sparkles in colours! Locals and discerned tourists alike mingle amongst stands covered with fresh products from fruits to charcuterie, under a Covent Garden-like canopy that stretches across the central courtyard of 19th porticoed square. After taking some photos, I leave this bustling space, check out the quiet Plaça del Rei where it is said that King Ferdinand greeted Christopher Columbus upon his return from America, walk back up to the Plaça de Catalunya, a square surrounded by banks and department stores, and then go see Casa Batllo, Casa Mila as well as the nearby Hotel Omm with peeled back metallic foils gracing its façade, and the intriguing Casa de les Punxes, all in the L’Eixample district. Next day, I make my way to the Park Guell, the Olympic Park with its seafront sculptures, the charming district of Barceloneta with great little fish restaurants, the Arc de Triumf in La Ribera and the incredible Palau de la Musica Catalana. So much more to see, including the large Catedral, the Palau Guell and lots of small squares, museums, restaurants, and beaches.

With nine buildings classified as World Heritage Sites, a dozen districts each with a distinctive style, delicious Catalan cuisine, charming weather and a forward thinking attitude, Barcelona has much going for it. It won’t be long before I come back here.

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