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Tucked among the vineyards of Languedoc, Carcassonne is the ideal short break to get rid of your winter blues. The town is two cities in one, the old and the new separated by the river Aude and framed to the north by the Montagne Noire, last foothills of the Massif Central, and to the south, the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees visible by clear weather. The city claims two World Heritage Sites, the Canal du Midi and the medieval walled town and its castle perched on the hilltop.

La Cité
Dating back over 2000 years, the original settlement known as ‘La Cité’ survived waves of invasions and religious wars, became part of France in 1226 then fell into decline after 400 years or so, when the Treaty of the Pyrenees ended its strategic importance as a border post. By the 19th century, the walled town was little more than a quarry, fortunately rescued by local scholar Cros-Mayrevieille and restored to its present condition by Viollet le Duc. Today it rises as good as new on the right bank of the Aude, bristling with 52 towers and enclosed by a double line of fortifications.

Before you head for the windswept entrance of the Porte de Narbonne, look out for the bust of Dame Carcas to the right of the drawbridge. After her husband’s death in the Middle Ages, this lady defended the city and gave it her name as she rang the bells (‘Carcas sonne’) to celebrate the end of the siege.

Huge crowds visit in summer but in winter, you will have the paved pedestrian lanes to yourself, save for the 120 inhabitants who still live within the walls. The atmosphere is definitely eerie and only a few shops will distract you with lavender and linen, pastries and plastic swords. Untroubled by the rattle of the tourist train and horse-drawn carriages, you can stroll along the ramparts and gaze at the views over the new town and surrounding countryside. Replenish your energy with a heart-warming cassoulet (duck and bean stew) then visit the St Nazaire basilica and the château (guided tours, closed bank holidays). Beyond the basilica, pop into the Musée de l’Ecole (rue du plô) and practise your handwriting with purple ink and old-fashioned pen (open Feb-Dec). Like most medieval castles, the Cité has a torture chamber and haunted house but be warned, this is not for the faint-hearted.

Below the ramparts is a delightful maze of quiet squares and lanes well worth exploring but don’t miss the impressive mural depicting the history of Carcassonne on the main road, past the car park.

La Ville Neuve
Despite its name, la Ville Neuve has long ceased to be a new town. It was built in 1260 by king St Louis, a ‘bastide’ laid out on flat land on the left bank, in typical checkerboard pattern with long straight streets leading to an arcaded square, so the good news is, it’s impossible to get lost. The Place Carnot is the centre of activity especially on market days, Tuesday, Thursday and best of all, Saturday for the ‘big market’. This is not a tourist trap but a place to buy fresh local produce, olives, cheeses, garlic and more, and rub shoulders with town and country folks.

Few visitors venture down to the Bastide yet it is full of hidden treasures. See the Musée des Beaux-Arts (facing Square Gambetta, free entrance), St Michel’s Cathedral restored by Viollet le Duc after an extensive fire and St Vincent’s Church with the largest nave in southern France and a 54 metre tower used to calculate the Paris Meridian. The lovely chapel of Our Lady of Good Health is down by the Old Bridge and you find elegant mansions scattered in a variety of styles all over town. The 17th century covered market, Les Halles selling mostly fish and meat, is being restored. The modest Rue Piétonne, the main shopping street, is lined with boutiques and cake shops. Monoprix is the only place of any size but the usual hypermarkets lie on the edge of town.

The Bastide is surrounded by boulevards where men play pétanque under the trees or watch the world go by. Look out for the elegant Dome (Salle du Dôme) capped with coloured tiles and the remains of 16th century bastions. The ‘Tour des Boulevards’ is a popular stroll with plenty of seats, though not traffic free.

The Canal du Midi
Up to 50 000 visitors a year cruise on the canal but out of season, you can cycle or ramble along the old tow path and only swans or ducks will disturb the water. From Carcassonne, it’s fair but pleasant walk to the picturesque village of Trèbes, past a whole string of locks including a spectacular ‘triple écluse’ on the outskirts of the city. But if you don’t want to venture out, the canal flows right through the heart of town and from the bridge by the railway station, you can watch the boats enter the lock and tie up in the marina, just two minutes from the main street.

Designed by Pierre Paul Riquet in 1666, the canal was to be part of a major link between the Atlantic and the Med., stretching for 250 km, with over 60 locks, 126 bridges, 7 canal aqueducts (Riquet’s invention) and one tunnel. Waters from the Montagne Noire were channelled down to the highest point at Naurouze, the watershed between the ocean and the sea. Riquet invested life and fortune into the project but died in 1680, a year before its inauguration.

In the early days, Carcassonne refused to pay the required levy and the canal kept well clear of the city, an expensive mistake as cereals, wine and cloth underwent an extra journey by land. After much negotiation and many interruptions, this was finally rectified in the early 19th century, at the time of the great Napoleonic victories, hence the names of the bridges in Carcassonne, Iéna (Prussian prisoners were used as labour), Marengo and Peace following the truce of Amiens.

The last goods were carried in 1989 but today the barges are back, converted into luxury boats, mingling with cruisers and yachts. Speak to the lock keepers and they glow with pride. After all, the canal was first to secure the World Heritage Site status, beating the medieval Cité to the post.

Out and about
Carcassonne is a green city, with a number of parks (Gambetta due to reopen after works) and lovely walks along the river. Start at the Pont Vieux, where you can take pictures of the castle, and follow the left bank past the dam to Paicherou, a café with old-fashioned tea dances in summer, and beyond to the Garigliana bridge, then return towards the old town along the right bank for most of the way. You will pass the ‘parcours de santé’, a short keep fit track, equipped for exercises if you wish. For a shorter walk, cross the river on the causeway (le gué), though if the water is high, this will be closed. Other walks are detailed in a leaflet available from the Tourist Office.

Roughly five km from town, the Cavayère reservoir draws summer crowds with its sandy beach and water sports but in the winter months, it’s a true haven of peace. You can walk around the lake in about an hour with no one for company but ducks and water birds. To get there, follow the road behind the Cité or the GR36, or take bus number 7 but be sure to check the return times. The adjoining ‘treetop adventure park’ is closed in winter but if your children want a bit of fun, head for the karting circuit, route de Bram, open all year.

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