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Ask the French where they would most like to live and Nice frequently comes top of the list. Capital of the Riviera and 5th city in France, it has much of the charm of the Belle Epoque but it’s vibrant and young, full of colour and culture. It’s easy to explore on foot and sheltered by the Alps, boasts nearly 3000 hours of sunshine a year.

Promenade des Anglais
Reverend Lewis Way would hardly recognize the path he had cleared for his fellow countrymen in 1822, just two metres wide in places, but the name would make him proud. Today it’s grown into a broad seafront promenade which sweeps around the Bay of Angels and draws crowds from all over the world. It’s a place to see and be seen, stroll, jog, chat, enjoy the stunning views and luminous light. Once the exclusive haunt of crowned heads, artists and writers, it welcomes everyone, casual and chic side by side.

With all the palm trees and flower beds, you almost forget the traffic snaking past an impressive line-up of luxury shops, grand hotels, old and new, and the Ruhl Casino where fortunes are made and lost and glamorous shows staged in Moulin Rouge style. Among the promenade’s most celebrated buildings is the Hotel Negresco, the city’s landmark, named after the Romanian violinist and businessman who commissioned it for a select clientele in 1912. Step inside and take a look at the sumptuous hall, the antique furnishings, the fairytale ‘brasserie’ - the ultimate stop for afternoon tea - and you will feel swept off your feet by the unashamed opulence of the Belle Epoque.

Then of course there’s the beach, huge, spotlessly clean and pebbles but in Nice, that’s a sign of distinction. Who wants sand between their toes when you can lounge on extra thick extra soft mattresses under a sea of blue and white parasols? On this seven km stretch, public areas mingle with private beaches and their well-appointed facilities and restaurants at the water’s edge. But if you’d rather see it all above the crowds, hop aboard the open top bus which leaves from Quai des Etats-Unis, get on and off at any of 11 stops as you wish; a day pass costs18 euros and two days 21 euros.

Vieux Nice
Squeezed between Castle Hill and the Espace Masséna, the Old Town is a maze of ochre-coloured streets where tall houses jostle for space and washing hangs from the balconies among flower pots and half-closed shutters. You find tunnel-like alleyways, hidden squares, craft shops selling perfumes, traditional fabrics or Nativity figures, and cafes laying their claim to tiny strips of pavement. The air smells of herbs and coffee, olives, truffles, pastries and sweets but for a head-spinning kaleidoscope of colour and fragrance, you can’t beat the Flower Market on the Cours Saleya. Every day except Monday( reserved for antiques), all the blooms of Provence seem to gather here and in the morning you can also buy fruit, vegetables and the small but tasty local olives known as ‘caillettes’. Now and then you might hear a few words of Nissart spoken in the streets but no one is surprised for, having joined France for good only in 1860, this forward-looking city remains proud of her roots.

Wander through the lanes to discover a string of Baroque churches, the ‘Miséricorde’ with its flowing lines and golden colours, St Martin St Augustin’s and its Pieta by Louis Bréa, the ‘Fra Angelico’ of Nice, and the St Réparate Cathedral, all bright tiles, marble and stucco, and the place to pray for rain in times of drought. Look out for the elegant Court House, the Townhall and Préfecture, and the Lascaris Palace (rue Droite) in Genoese style, once home of a noble family, now converted into a museum displaying Baroque decorative arts and a unique collection of 18th century apothecary jars.

The harbour
Built in the 18th century by the Duke of Savoy who ruled at the time, hailed as a ‘port of clear waters’, it’s a busy place where ferries set sail for Corsica, liners dock for the night and luxury yachts outshine each other in the marina. But the last fishing boats still bob along the quay, their bright colours gleaming in the sun. The Niçois call them ‘pointus’ because of their shape. The catch is sold every morning (except Monday) in the rickety stalls of the Place St François or heads for the harbourside restaurants and bistrots which cater for all budgets and tastes.

There’s no better place to enjoy sea bass or mullet though the local cuisine has more to offer, from fish soup with garlic and herbs to pissaladière –onion, olive and anchovy tart-, the true ‘salade niçoise’ with anchovies, fava beans and tuna or the famous vegetable ratatouille which simply melts in your mouth. With all this fresh food and olive oil and the cool ‘Rosé de Provence’, you couldn’t dream of a better diet.

But if you’re looking for a snack, do as the locals do and choose a Pan Bagnat (filled Provençal roll) or a freshly-cooked socca, a kind of pizza cum pancake with a wholesome base of chick pea flour. Then stroll around Place Ile de Beauté, a lovely neo-classical square coming down to the harbour, pop into ‘Our Lady of the Port’ who bestows blessings on fishermen and sailors or join a mini-cruise on the Trans Côte d’Azur for spectacular views along the coast.

The Hills
Above the harbour Castle Hill rises to over 92 metres, the highest point in Nice. The fortress has long gone but a canon is still fired at midday – a tradition initiated by Lord Coventry in 1861- and it’s well worth the climb (lift, road or 371 steps) past the Bellanda Tower and its Naval Museum, for at the top you are promised the ‘most beautiful panorama in the world’. It’s a double treat, with the sunrise viewpoint on one side overlooking the harbour, and on the other the sunset looking down on the rooftops of the Vieux Nice and the great curve of the Bay of Angels. The surrounding park is the perfect place to picnic under the pines as you listen to the refreshing sound of a man-made waterfall.

Meanwhile on the wooded slopes of Mont Boron, Elton John and other stars relax in secluded villas. The road winds up past breathtaking views stretching all the way to the Cape of Antibes, and myriad mansions of the Belle Epoque. Many more line the inland road up to Cimiez, remembering the grand old days and their royal visitors, Queen Victoria among them.

In the 13th century BC, the Romans settled on the ancient Celtic site of Cimiez and excavations have revealed a small amphitheatre and baths. Artefacts are displayed in the Archaeological Museum while the neighbouring Villa des Arènes houses the Matisse Museum. Not far away beyond the olive grove, the painter rests in a plain grave, near the delightful Monastery Garden and its Franciscan Church, famous for an unusual marble cross and outstanding Baroque altarpiece.

Culture
With a total of 19 museums and galleries, second only to Paris, you need to choose what you’d like to see. Some have taken over glorious palaces and mansions, such as the Fine Arts Museum in the former home of a Ukrainian princess (avenue des Baumettes), others reflect the New Nice and its spirit of avant-garde. Look out for the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (Promenade des Arts), its striking architecture in line with the Louis Nacera Library, or the Chagall Museum (avenue Dr Ménard) built under the artist’s direction to house his monumental Biblical Message, a series of 17 panels in his favourite colours, blue and green with just a splash of purple and red.

Another must-see is the St Nicholas’ Orthodox Cathedral, all pink brick and grey marble topped by glistening ceramic domes. Open in 1912 to serve the Russian aristocracy who flocked to Nice for the winter, it contains exquisite wood panels, icons and frescoes and is said to be the finest in Western Europe.

But in Nice, culture goes beyond museums and churches, spilling out into the streets throughout the year, as the Niçois celebrate yet another lively event. There’s the traditional Carnival and Flower Parades in February when the mimosa comes into bloom, the Cimiez Festivities in May, the Fishermen’s Fete in June, the International Jazz Festival in July and more every month.

Back to Nature
Nice claims 300 hectares of parks and gardens, and 150 fountains and ponds, so there’s always somewhere to relax and forget the crowds. Favourites include the forested trails on Mont Boron, the Hanging Gardens on the Paillon River and the adjoining parks (free concerts in the bandstand in season) and if you have a couple of hours to spare before your flight, you could explore the Parc Floral Phoenix, across the road from the airport (2 euros, free under 12). You might hear a plane or two but it’s a lovely oasis of flowers and trees with water features, butterfly house, herb garden and mini vineyard. Take a look at the nearby Square of Mosaics by Maurice Calca and if time allows, the Museum of Asian Arts is just next door.

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