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The restrained understatement that typifies the Amangalla conversion is echoed by the approach to Amanwella, the chain’s beachfront hotel just under two hours drive down the coast near Tangalle. The dirt track has no sign from the main road and you would be easily forgiven should you question whether or not this actually leads to a luxury hotel. Then, quite abruptly, the rutted red earth turns into a regal red gravel drive - you know all is well.

The bay itself is idyllic. Unusually, the perfectly sheltered sandy cove is set slightly off to the west and thus affords sunset views. Framing this view are two small headlands, where relentless waves come crashing over boulders into a series of rock pools. To complete the scene, the bay is home to a small fleet of local fishing boats. The proportions of the impossibly slender palms swaying above this picture are echoed by those of Francois Richli, the veteran Aman manager who has achieved almost cult-like status amongst Japanese ‘Aman junkies’ due to his languid lanky stature and sardonic wit. The relaxed aplomb with which Francois presides over Amanwella rivals that of the surrounding palms and has clearly rubbed off in the staff. In apparent contrast to the relative old-world formality of Amangalla, the mood here is ‘beach’ - relaxed, calm, no agenda.

The overall design is bold and a dramatic statement within the context. One cannot help noticing some elements of Geoffrey Bawa - the noted Sri Lankan architect - in the framed linear concrete spaces, but there is considerable innovation in the mix. Many elements work immediately - the vast 46 metre asymmetrical swimming pool poised above the bay; the huge empty spaces, reflective pools and subtle lighting in the restaurant washrooms; the steel and kitul palm furniture in the bare but intimate dining room, which serves a spartan modern menu but proves refreshingly simple.

Other elements will take time to gel, as recent planting creates more privacy between rooms and adds a softer feel to the stark and dominant angularity. It is hard to imagine the urban-chic beach bar ever looking anything other than displaced and somewhat surreal. It does serve a mean burger, but it must be the only one in the world served without chips. In a similar vein, the pursuit of form sees to have overtaken functionality - for example, strips of concrete laid in the lawn to accentuate rigid lines are slightly raised from the surrounding lawn, leaving one guided from the restaurant to the washrooms by torch to avoid stubbing your toe.

The rooms
In true Aman tradition, the rooms are a feast, the finish and the detail being of impeccable standard. The sliding ‘yellow bulau’ doors glide effortlessly, allowing for a combination of spaces between bedroom and bathroom; the latticework panels and brown olive terrazzo are perfectly complemented; the eye for contemporary excellence evident from the Bose mini-system to the standard of every tap, fixture and fitting. Functionally however, questions remain, not least the ‘goldfish bowl effect’, which may quickly be overcome after a period of luxuriant tropical growth creates more seclusion from the currently exposed vistas. Watch this space.

Come for:
- Volleyball on the beach with local fishermen
- Good pounding surf and an idyllic beach
- A mean burger without chips

Not suitable for:
- Those who like to spend much of the day naked in their room
- Those that expect chips with their burgers

Eating in, eating out
For dinner, we ate Sichuan pepper and salted quail with lime, cured seer fish with lychees and thyme, mahi-mahi fillet with bok choy and hollandaise potatoes and prime beef with pesto-coated mash - all were excellent. Breakfast was a fine feast of tropical fruit, bacon and eggs and good strong coffee. Lunch was a mean burger - but without chips.

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