Africa & Middle East > Tanzania > Northern Tanzania > Serengeti > Birds > Articles > Safari in Style

It’s 6 pm on a November Monday and I should be worrying about my tax return. Instead, I’m lounging in a scuffed leather armchair with a G & T in hand, eyes drifting out over a grassy valley, the colours fading into darkness as the sun sets.

I’ve spent the day bumping across the plains of the Serengeti with a ranger, seeing the straggling end of the great migration – hundreds of wildebeest trudging stoically to greener pastures in the south. They were flanked by groups of zebras, trotting haughtily across our path. At a waterhole, hippos paused in their wallowing to eye us from beneath heavy pink lids. We spotted vultures, hyenas and dozens of different types of antelope, and a family of lions – complete with three playful cubs – ambled past our Range Rover. It’s been an exhilarating day, and now I’ve got a four-course supper to look forward to.

This is how to do a Tanzanian safari in style: luxurious, small-scale lodges, good food and wine, expert rangers and an abundance of wildlife. It’s an easy holiday – direct flights, transfers in light aircraft and a finely polished army of ground staff means I’ve taken in the best of the northern safari circuit in a week. I’ve travelled between Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara and two stops in the Serengeti, which means I’ve seen a fascinating cross-section of landscapes: the self-contained ecosystem in the crater; the soda lake and forests of Manyara; a lush riverside location at Grumeti Camp; and classical rolling savanna at Klein’s Camp.

As if luxury living, stunning locations and an abundance of animals weren’t enough, I’ve also got a clear conscience. Rainbow Tours has an excellent record of responsible tourism – low-impact holidays which benefit local communities. So I can kick back and enjoy my trip knowing that my tourist dollar is filtering through to local Tanzanians. Another good reason for forgetting about that tax return.



What to pack
The key to packing for a safari is comfort. Bumpy roads, dust and heat add up to a fairly uncomfortable ride, so pack wisely. Although you won’t be lugging around your own baggage on this sort of holiday, don’t take more than you’ll wear, which realistically will be a fresh shirt or t-shirt every day, a light jumper, a few of changes of shorts or trousers, and a change of clothes for the evenings. Loose, cotton clothing is generally best – shorts or trousers and a t-shirt or lightweight shirt are comfortable for during the day.

Also be sure to take a light jacket or fleece – early mornings and evenings can be chilly, especially at the Ngorongoro Crater. Avoid bright colours which may scare off animals; stick to khaki and beige. A wide-brimmed hat will keep off the rays when it’s hot, and take comfortable walking shoes, as well as sandals. Some of the lodges have swimming pools, so bring along a swimsuit, too.

Although evening meals are elegant (crystal and silver are de rigueur at the smartest lodges), you don’t have to dress up for dinner. Smart-casual is fine – jeans or a skirt and a shirt/blouse is normal. A jumper or wrap is also a good idea.

When in the cities or when transferring between lodges, bear in mind that Tanzania has a large Islamic population (and a conservative Christian population for the rest) so women should cover up – don’t show your legs above your knees, and keep shoulders covered if possible. Men should never walk about without a shirt. Shorts and vests are fine in the lodges and parks.

Clothes aside, binoculars are an absolute essential. You’ll often be looking at game from quite a distance, and birds are hard to distinguish without some magnification. A lightweight pair with a magnification of 7X21 is perfect. Take all the film you’ll need, and a tough dust- and water-proof camerabag. Although you can buy film out there, you can’t guarantee the quality of what’s on sale.

The African sun is all you’d expect, so don’t venture out without a good slathering of factor 15 sunscreen. Protect yourself from mosquitoes with a good Deet-heavy insect repellent (this can be used during the day to stop tsetse flies from biting, too).



Dispelling the myths

Five-star safari: Being on safari doesn’t have to mean roughing it. These lodges are luxurious and the food top-notch. But don’t expect every mod con – air conditioning, satellite TV and internet access are (thankfully) not available.

Your call: Starts are often early, and - though its unusual - game drives can last all day, so don’t be shy to say you’d rather miss one out. You are on holiday, after all, and kicking back with a book by the pool is perfectly acceptable!

The Big Five: Don’t set your heart on seeing the Big Five (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo). Rhino and leopard are notoriously hard to spot, and there are plenty of animals which are just as fascinating, such as hippos, cheetahs, monkeys and the prolific birdlife.

Scorching savanna: Yes, the African sun is strong and you’ll need high-factor protection, but it can get surprisingly cool around the northern circuit. The Ngorongoro Crater is 2,300 meters above sea level and is famously chilly, especially at night. I generally experienced hot, dusty days and cool evenings.

All about the animals: You’ll be here for the game, no question about it, but that doesn’t mean you can’t learn something about the local population, too. Some of these camps, such as Klein’s Camp, work closely with the local Masai community and can arrange cultural trips to nearby villages.

Unique features

Bath with a view: Few experiences can match that of returning to your room at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge after a game drive to find the bath drawn and fire blazing – and all this with uninterrupted views over the magnificent crater.

Night sounds: From the snuffling of buffalo and the grunts of grazing hippos, to the reverberating roar of a lion or the eerie howl of a hyena, you’ll be entertained in every lodge by a different nightly cacophony of beasties.

Masterminds: The game drivers have a truly encyclopedic knowledge of the flora and fauna of the parks – be sure to ask plenty of questions, as the curious tit-bits you’ll learn about the animals are limitless.

Out of Africa: I had a distinct aversion to small planes before this holiday, but soaring over the endless plains of the Serengeti, spotting herds of wildebeest, or a pink smudge on a lake – hundreds of flamingoes – was a real highlight.

Food for thought: Remoteness doesn’t necessarily mean back-to-basics cooking: CC Africa lodges are renowned for their excellent cuisine, and I ate extremely well during my week-long safari. Expect cooked-to-order breakfasts, three-course lunches, tea and cakes, and gourmet suppers.

First impression
This wasn’t my first time to Tanzania, and I’ve been on quite a few safaris in Southern Africa, but I can confidently say this was one of the best. For starters, Tanzania offers such a wide range of ecosystems – from the misty bowl of Ngorongoro crater, to the shimmering plains of the Serengeti, Tanzania pretty much fulfils all the African ideals.

The brochure promised high standards of accommodation and service, but the lodges were more luxurious than I’d expected. Opinions differ on super-luxury lodges like Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, and those wanting a rustic experience (and can do without the services of a private butler) should stay elsewhere. The other lodges, however, skillfully combine comfort and style with a feel of being in the Africa bush. Rooms at Lake Manyara Lodge, for example, are isolated treehouses, giving guests a real sense of sleeping out in the forest (albeit it in 500-count Egyptian cotton sheets).

But back to the animals – that’s what everyone’s here for, after all. I didn’t see the Big Five (leopards remained elusive throughout my stay), but I did see just about everything else, and given the immense knowledge of the guides, even the tiniest creature can become deeply intriguing.

Value for money
Let’s not beat about the bush: this isn’t a budget break. The hotels are expensive, and flights to Tanzania are pricey too. But do bear in mind that the prices include just about everything: flights, transfers, all meals and drinks, park fees, etc. So once you’re out there, you only have to pay for souvenirs from camp shops, and tips to rangers and butlers (roughly $5-$10 per day for a butler, and up to $20 per day for a ranger, but this of course depends on the service). It’s also a good idea to ask your camp manger, who you’ll have plenty of chances to chat with, about tip rates.

Is it you?
This kind of luxury trip seems to appeal to both safari virgins and old hacks, as it offers luxurious accommodation (to ease you into the “Africa” experience) but also has superb game-viewing to keep game-chasers happy. Most of the people I met were professional couples (a few on their honeymoon), although families also pitch up during school holidays. The excellent standards of food, accommodation and service make this a very enjoyable – and easy – safari experience. Those with a lust for adventure might, in other words, find it a bit too comfy.

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