Europe > Cyprus > Western Cyprus > Limassol > Articles > Cyprus: Island of Legend and Love

Islands are special but when you share a beach with the Goddess of Love, it’s simply bewitching. Legend has it Aphrodite was born on the shores of southern Cyprus and if you swim around the rock bearing her name, you might catch a glimpse of her face.

We missed it somehow but found so much of interest on this ancient land it didn’t seem to matter at all. Lapped by the clear waters of the eastern Mediterranean, Cyprus greeted us with fine resorts and beaches, scenic mountains and sleepy villages, and more cultural sites than we could see in a week.

Our lovely south-facing villa was tucked away on the outskirts of Limassol. This popular resort heaves with fun-seeking crowds at the height of summer but is pleasantly subdued out of season. Thatched parasols and sky blue loungers still dot the volcanic sands either side of town but the eight mile long promenade is almost deserted, snaking beyond a glistening avenue of palms towards pine groves and eucalyptus. Cargo ships drop anchor off shore, fishing nets are laid to dry on the quay.

A few steps away the 14th century castle glows honey-coloured in the sun. Visitors browse around its Medieval Museum then climb to the top for a bird’s eye view of harbour and town, crowned by the Cathedral towers. Minarets rise in the old Turkish district and a warren of lanes meanders into the distance, their blue shutters and balconies draped in bougainvillea. Here you breathe in a little flavour from the past before hitting the gleaming shopping centres and souvenir shops of the new tourist town. Leather shoes and bags, lace, embroidery, religious icons, silver and gold jewellery, temptation follows you every step of the way but when you need to top up your energy, just stop by the juice seller in the pedestrian street and he will squeeze oranges or grapefruit to order, for one Cypriot pound (about £1.20) a bottle.

Limassol is built up and big but offers seasonal activities for the whole family and if you like exploring, its central position makes it an ideal base. The impressive ruins of Kourion are just on the doorstep and it’s an easy drive to the capital, mountains and main resorts. The fine sands of Agia Napa are way out to the east, great for children, but most of the clientèle comes in search of bright lights and the hottest clubbing spots on the Med., though few are open in winter.

Larnaka is more genteel. It may be Cyprus’ third largest city, after Nicosia and Limassol, but we hardly noticed as we strolled along its spacious promenade, past golden mandarin trees, and laid claim to our patch on the endless ribbon of sand. A sturdy fort guards the southern end of the beach, offering sweeping views from the ramparts and occasional performances in the courtyard. Far below, fishing boats and yachts mirror themselves in glistening waters.

Take time to wander around the old town and watch the craftsmen chiselling silver, carving wood, shaping baskets and shell ornaments then head for a seafront taverna to sample the local fare. Grilled calamaries and swordfish from the night catch compete with fragrant meatballs, halloumi cheese from thyme-fed goats or meze, an all time favourite of 20 or more appetizers, a meal in itself and a colourful feast for all the senses. Add Cyprus sherry, orange liqueur or aniseed-flavoured ouzo, a glass or two of Commandaria, a sweet wine fermented in open jars in age-old fashion, and you may well dream of Aphrodite as you join the locals for the afternoon siesta.

As elsewhere on the island, Larnaka has its share of museums and churches but if you see only one, let it be St Lazarus’, its dazzling icons and chandeliers hitting you like a thunderbolt while in the crypt below, candles flicker around the open sarcophagus of Lazarus, miraculously risen from the dead. The Muslims have their own holy site where Mohammed’s aunt lies buried, on the shores of the salt lake on the edge of town.

In winter, the lake is alive with flamingos and migrating birds. They know no borders but for the Cypriots, the reality is different. Greek and Turkish flags fly either side of the ‘Green Line’ and although it’s now possible to cross, as long as you return before midnight, differences are slow to heal. You feel them acutely in Nicosia when you reach the no-go area or look down on the divided capital from the 11th floor of the Ermes store in the old town.

Nicosia, officially renamed Lefkosia, is the place to spend your cash on designer clothes and duty-free goods, stroll along the old Venetian walls framed by bluish hills and marvel at the six foot tall statue of Makarios III, the island’s first President, towering in front of the Archbishop’s Palace. In the delightfully restored Laiki Geitonia district, you might enjoy a village salad under a trellis, browse at paintings and Lefkara lace or watch the locals play backgammon in the shade.

Yet for the best local colour and superb scenery, nothing beats a day out in the Troodos mountains. They rise on the western side of the island, all pine-covered slopes and waterfalls and lush valleys tumbling down to the sea. You can drive to the top of Mount Olympus, the highest point at 1950 metres, or ramble along the fragrant trails, looking for dog rose or rare wild clematis or luminous strands of lilac rock cress. You might even spot a mouflon and her young scampering into the bushes. Up there the air is cool and on a clear day, the views stretch across the mountains to the north and south coasts. White villages cling to lonely hillocks, old Byzantine chapels and monasteries peep through the trees, lost in the wilderness.

In Kykkos, the grandest of them all, coach parties linger in the scenic restaurant and around the stalls selling honey, almonds and oranges fresh from the valley, but the real wonders lie behind the gates. There are cloisters covered in mosaics, precious religious artifacts in an atmospheric museum and stunning woodcarvings and icons in the church. Be sure to drive up to the campanile on the hillside and on to Throni where Makarios was laid to rest in a humble cave-like shrine. He chose this spot for its panorama over the island so you can expect a wonderful view.

To the west lies the beautifully preserved Akamas peninsula where a jeep safari takes you on a soft adventure to view the coloured rocks of the Avakas Gorge and the turtle nesting grounds of Lara Bay. You may even have another chance to meet up with Aphrodite who once bathed in a pool, now known as Aphrodite’s Baths, above the fishing village of Latsi.

Akamas is a wild and rugged land, home to juniper and pines, the odd carob and olive tree, and over 500 species of plants but make your way south towards Pafos and you come to rolling banana and citrus groves and vineyards turning to gold in the midday sun. Nestling at the foot of the hills, Pafos gleams like a gem with a pretty harbour, all bobbing yachts and fishing smacks, a part-moated fort battered by silvery surf and outdoor tavernas jostling around a palm-lined bay. There’s a string of sandy beaches, some private, and a colourful Saturday market to shop for local fruit and veg.

But above all, Pafos has an amazing wealth of ancient sites, from the Catacombs and Royal Tombs to Nea Pafos, the vast Archaeological Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site bordering the sea. Don’t miss the House of Dionysos and its famous mosaics, the remains of the Byzantine castle, the restored Odeon below the lighthouse and above all, spend a little time savouring the peace and the past, as you gaze at these ancient stones sprinkled among blue thistles and pines.

Aphrodite would approve. Not so far away, on the spectacular rocky coast fading to the east, she rose from the waves and fell in love with Adonis, the God of Beauty. They met in the twilight by a secret pool and to this day, the Rock of Aphrodite claims the most glorious sunsets on the island.

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