Home > Travel Writing > The Divine Horses of Rajasthan

For most Western visitors, India is a culture shock at best. This is a land of extremes, of dazzling riches and overwhelming poverty, of ear-shattering noise and whispered inner peace, of drabness and vivid hues. Here, one billion souls jostle for space in a seething sea of humanity, a bewildering kaleidoscope of colour, sound and aromas, which confuse and disorientate, then entice and enchant.

To explore this dizzying subcontinent is to fall headlong into a chaotic cauldron where every sense is assaulted and expanded. To do so on horseback is to blow one’s mind completely!

India is a country better known for its holy cows than its divine horses. There are few private stables in the country – only the very wealthy can afford the privilege of riding for pleasure. There is a strong equestrian focus within the Army, which still maintains a working cavalry; and traditional horse sports such as polo have a passionate following. For the majority of Indian citizens, however, horse riding is a pastime only for an elite few.

For all its restrictions in terms of facilities and numbers, India is a wonderful surprise for horse-loving adventurers. A handful of commercial horse safaris take travellers far beyond the polluted, groping cities into the fascinating rural regions, where the urban madness is tempered by timeless traditions and a peaceful way of life. Here, way off the beaten tourist track, one can get close to the heart of the subcontinent, experiencing the complexities of Indian life first-hand.

The epicentre of India’s horse culture is the desert state of Rajasthan, a parched and monotonous wasteland where 56.5 million people eke out a living in historic cities, simple villages and on rural farms. This is one of the poorest states in India, cursed by a harsh environment, with drought regularly threatening the livelihoods of ordinary people.

The vistas here are stark, with a cloudless hazy sky, sparse, spiky vegetation and a grey, dusty ground underfoot. Square fields, fenced by boxthorns, often lie barren in anticipation of the annual monsoon, which may never come in these times of climactic chaos. The villages, densely packed centres of commercial activity, are equally dusty, with holy cows and camel carts competing with honking lorries for the narrow, pot-holed road-space.

For all its natural drabness, however, Rajasthan is ablaze with the colours of a rich and exotic culture. Iridescent greens, canary yellows, chilli red and electric blues abound in a sea of turbans and lavishly embroidered saris – the effect is simply dazzling, a joy to behold, and reflective of the warmth and hospitality of its people.

This is particularly true in the northern region of Shekhawati, a place relatively undiscovered and untainted by tourism. Here, in the tiny village of Dundlod, you’ll find the Royal Equestrian and Polo Centre, the only horse safari centre in the country to be recognised and affiliated with the Equestrian Federation of India. The stables are owned by the charming and handsome Kanwar Raghuvendra Singh, known to everyone as Bonnie.

In Shekhawati, to be a wealthy white tourist is a curiosity; to be a visitor on horseback is a miracle, a truly fascinating sight. At every village, riders are greeted with enthusiastic shouts and waves; sari-clad women giggle shyly at their daunting presence, and children dash across fields of mustard seed for a close up view of the strangely-dressed equestrians.

It is this effusive hospitality that makes riding in India a special experience – but what makes it a true adventure are the horses themselves.

The pampered equine stars at Bonnie’s stables at Dundlod are a beautiful and enigmatic breed called the Marwari, a strain relatively unknown to the Western world and largely neglected in its native India. Bred as battle horses for the ruling Rajput nobles in medieval Rajasthan, this horse, descended from Oriental stock, is fiery, proud and intelligent. It has a strong, arched neck and high head carriage, topped by distinctive lyre-shaped ears, which, when pricked, form a perfect arch. A fine, silky coat and long, dewy eyelashes are other evolutionary traits, designed to ease the burden of desert dwelling.

In medieval times, when the rule of the Rajputs was at its peak, the status of these warhorses was unparalleled. Heroic exploits were recorded in literature – tales of horses leaping onto elephants in attack, of amazing feats of endurance, of bravery and loyalty. The horse was declared divine, superior to all men - accordingly, only the Rajput families and the ruling warrior caste were permitted to be associated with these exalted beasts.

With the arrival of colonial rule, however, these animals were rejected as being too showy, too undisciplined, altogether “un-British”. The breed declined into oblivion, even to the verge of extinction.

Rajputs, however, themselves stripped of their privileges, remained loyal to their battle companions. In the 1930s, the late Maharaja Umaid Singh of Jodphur began buying up the horses he could identify as being representative of the breed. Raja Narinder Singh, the oldest living Mewar prince, also turned his hunting lodge on the outskirts of Udaipur into a breeding centre.

Bonnie Singh is also a man of considerable historic stature. He is the direct descendent of the Rajput ruler, Kesari Singh, who built the castle at Dundlod in 1750. Although he now has no official status, Bonnie, who still resides in the castle, is the undisputed leader of his community, and a champion of the humble folk of Dundlod.

Ten or so years ago, Bonnie, astute businessman that he is, jumped on the tourism bandwagon, converting his family fort into a heritage hotel, modestly luxurious with unique, charming rooms and an impeccable level of service. As an added bonus, he cornered the riding safari market, attracting curious overseas visitors to this otherwise remote part of Rajasthan.

Bonnie’s love affair with the Marwari horse began in the ‘80s, when he was location scout for the Hollywood movie, ‘The Far Pavilions’. Filming was well underway before the movie producers realised an essential element was missing – authentic Indian horses. On behalf of the film company, Bonnie scoured the local area, finding 25 horses for the film. At the end of the filming, Bonnie found himself in possession of a whole stable of horses and a new obsession – the Marwari.

His stables are now the largest breeding centre of Marwari horses in the country, and his prized stallions and mares are now being exported to the United States where they sell for over US$25,000.

Incredibly beautiful, Bonnie’s riding horses are also hardy, fit - and fast. The safari rides are conducted at a cracking pace, a command to “trot” inevitably leading to a full-on gallop through the dunes, for three, four, perhaps more kilometres at a time. For riders used to leisurely trails on a loose rein, this can be an exhausting, if exhilarating experience – a high standard of horsemanship is mandatory, and riding fitness a definite advantage. Long hours in the saddle, combined with the furious pace make this a truly physical adventure.

Countering this, however, is the luxurious treatment you’ll receive on the rides, beginning with a “red carpet” traditional welcome at Dundlod Fort. After an introductory ride around the surrounding dunes, guests then head off on their safaris accompanied by an entourage of 30 staff members, including grooms, chefs, tent pitchers and flag bearers carrying the colours of Dundlod.

A number of rides are available exploring the fascinating Shekhawati region and beyond. The most popular ride climaxes at the annual Pushkar Camel fair, a colourful and historic event which attracts around 200,000 people and 50,000 animals each year. Smaller, and less touristy is the local Naguar Fair, where many Marwari horses exchange hands.

One of the highlights of riding in Shekhawati is the opportunity to explore ‘havelis’, local mansions decorated with beautiful frescoes. Once belonging to wealthy businessmen, many of these homes have fallen into disrepair, and are only now being appreciated and restored as fine works of art.

There are no ‘orange and sandwich’ breaks on these rides – lunch consists of a three-course hot meal, delicious curries, wine – you name it. And at the end of the day, there are comfortable beds, set up in impressive Imperial Raj-style canvas tents – a cosy end to a wearying day in the saddle. The occasional night is also spent in the comfort of family-owned palaces and forts, converted into simple, romantic and highly evocative hotels.

Riding in India is not for the faint-hearted. The hours in the saddle are long and dusty; the horses are spirited and demand constant concentration; and conditions along the trail can be primitive. The rewards, however, are immeasurable – the joy of riding gallant and spirited horses…experiencing the genuine warmth of the Indian people…and an enriched understanding of a complex and fascinating culture.

Read more travel writing by Julie Miller