North America > United States > Wyoming > Shoshone National Forest > Articles > A Bitterroot Smile

Inside every horse-loving man and woman lurks the heart of a cowboy. Whether we ride English-style or Western, childhood fantasies of ropin’ and ridin’ are etched into our souls, drawing us into dreams of wide open plains, of happy trails, of campfire singalongs under a starlit sky. A cowboy represents adventure, heroism and freedom – he is the embodiment of a pioneering spirit, of simple values and a carefree existence. He is our inspiration and our role model, galloping off into the sunset on his trusty steed…

This romantic ideal is at the core of the ‘dude ranch’ culture in the United States of America. Capitalising on the timeless appeal of Hollywood westerns, many working cattle ranches have opened their doors to paying guests, inviting them to share in their daily routine and experience a taste of Wild West hospitality.

There are literally hundreds of these establishments to choose from, all catering to different clientele requirements. Some, for instance, have a kitschy ‘theme park’ quality about them, offering a pseudo-western experience with chuck wagon rides, staged Indian attacks, square dances and cookouts. Others offer a more genuine working environment where guests learn new skills and develop their riding ability as they pitch in with seasonal cattle duties.

Some ranches offer resort facilities and an endless array of organised activities; others accommodate guests in simple, rustic cabins in keeping with Old West traditions. Whatever your holiday requirements, however, the motivation is universal – the realisation of dreams, the fulfilment of fantasies and the search for new inspiration.

A midlife crisis, for instance, was the catalyst for Billy Crystal’s western adventure in the classic Hollywood comedy, ‘City Slickers’. “Go and find your smile,” his tolerant wife advised before he headed off, spurs jingling, on Curly’s cattle drive.

Billy found his smile… and so have many others who have followed enthusiastically in his footsteps, inspired to have a similar, life-changing experience in the saddle.

It is to the glorious Rocky Mountain states of Montana, Wyoming and Colorado that most people head for their cowboy experience. Blessed with soaring peaks, breathtaking vistas and millions of acres of wilderness, these regions offer limitless riding opportunities in a vast frontier landscape.

Even in God’s Own Country, however, ranch experiences may vary. In some places you can ride all day in absolute solitude; others are located on a main drag, their riding trails compromised by encroaching suburbia. Some ranches have access to high mountains, but rocky, difficult paths may restrict riding opportunities. It is certainly worth researching what sort of ground you will be covering during your stay, as it may dictate the pace of the riding and your subsequent level of enjoyment.

Few ranches allow their guests to gallop around at will, however, regardless of terrain – liability issues have resulted in many rides being conducted exclusively at a walk. Serious riders should question the pace and frequency of the outings, the size of the riding group, and whether guests are evaluated on their horsemanship before setting off on the trail. With a little research, it should become obvious what sort of establishment you are dealing with.

Another point to consider is whether the ranch owns its horses, or simply rents them for the season. While this may be the cheapest option during a brief vacation period, ranches that lease their horses have little control over the quality or education of their animals. A ranch that breeds and trains its own horses is more likely to offer a safe and supervised riding environment where the welfare of the horses is as paramount as that of the rider.

On some American ranches, increased safety concerns and insurance demands has resulted in the demise of a beloved Western icon – the cowboy hat. On Wyoming’s Bitterroot Ranch, for instance, all riders, including wranglers, must wear hard helmets on the trail. “What matters is the safety of my guests and my staff,” says ranch owner Bayard Fox, who, despite 65 years of riding, also dons a regulation black crash cap. “If that makes me unpopular, that’s just bad luck.”

Despite fashion being off the agenda, Bitterroot Ranch still manages to capture true western spirit and adventure in its exciting, challenging riding program. Here, the cowboy experience comes naturally - there are no contrived scenarios, no campfires or boot-scooting sessions, and no artificial drawls. What you have instead is the simple formula of good horses, fun-loving company, hard work and awe-inspiring Wyoming scenery – the real stuff of legends.

For those unfamiliar with the territory, the state of Wyoming is an intriguing panorama, its ever-changing moods a constant and delightful surprise. Baking desert badlands, carved into eerie moonscapes by nature’s deft chisel, give way to dusty fields of fragrant sage and flowering prickly pear, the perfect location for a headlong gallop. Rocky outcrops, resonant with the ghosts of outlaws, lead to death-defying gorges slashed by mountain streams raging with glacial run-off. As the altitude changes, so the scenery softens to the aroma of pine and aspen, dense forests opening to woodland meadows dotted with wildflowers – lupin, phlox and the exquisite red blooms of the Indian paintbrush. Winding trails emerge onto lofty ridges, offering expansive views of the snow-capped peaks of the Continental Divide, a sparkling tiara against an endless blue horizon.

Nestled into this chameleonic location is Bitterroot, the last ranch in a remote valley bordering the Shoshone National Forest. The closest civilisation is 40 minutes away at Dubois, an historic outpost with the appearance of a Hollywood film set – wooden boardwalks, log buildings, good-ol’-boy saloon and pick-up trucks galore. This was once the stomping ground of Butch Cassidy and his notorious gang; who hid out in the nearby Badlands during their bandit reign.

Part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the Shoshone National Forest consists of 2.4 million acres of some of the wildest countryside remaining in the lower 48 states, a rich habitat for elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goats and grizzly bears. It is also home to Bitterroot’s cattle during the summer months, providing lush grazing pastures in over fifty square miles of high mountains, heavily-timbered forests and the valleys of the Wind River.

An important part of the Bitterroot calendar is the annual cattle drive, where guests participate in the routine of a working cowboy, driving the cattle deep into the forest. This is time-consuming and unpredictable work, requiring long hours in the saddle at elevations of up to 10000 feet – a physically demanding experience for both horse and rider. For first-time cowboys, it’s an intense and fun challenge, one that requires both independence and teamwork with your fellow wranglers as you apply new skills learnt on the job.

The most rewarding partnership, however, is that of horse and rider as they attempt to predict the movement of the mob. Many of Bitterroot’s delightful Arabians are excellent cow-ponies and know their job well, driving the cows and calves in the right direction with a feisty attitude, quick thinking and the occasional nip on the nearest bovine bum. As a wise old cowboy once said, “When in doubt, let your horse do the thinking.”

Bitterroot’s string of 180 Arab and Quarter horses are an impressive herd, handsome, beautifully bred and well-educated by Bayard Fox's wife, Mel. In the corral, Kenyan-born Mel rules with an iron fist in a velvet glove, demanding high levels of discipline and horsemanship from staff and guests alike. For some, this is their first foray into western riding, and old-school English habits must be discarded as they learn to control their mounts on a loose rein, with minimal interference.

Complementing Mel’s strict, eagle-eyed instruction, Bayard charms and delights with his devil-may-care attitude to life on the range. 76 years young, this fit and wiry rancher is a passionate and entertaining guide as he shares his knowledge of his custodial land and its fascinating history. With a cheeky glint in his eye, he spins yarns of pioneering days, of Butch and Sundance, of long winters and encounters with wildlife. “If you’ve been to Wyoming, you’ve seen the world,” he tells his guests proudly.

Age has certainly not wearied this accomplished horseman who has ridden in over 30 countries. After apologising for the collective ages of himself and his 28 year-old horse Traveller – a partnership of over 100 years – Bayard surprised us all by wheeling his trusty steed around and giving him his head, bounding up a hill and across the sagebrush plain like a streak of white lightning.

As my little Arab mare strained to keep up with this furious pace, dust flying from under pounding hooves and wind whipping through her mane, I began to appreciate Mel’s philosophy of absolute trust in my horse. Sure-footed on the undulating hillsides, comfortable on the scrubby trail, our mounts were powerhouses of equine energy, galloping with unrestrained joy. Holding them back was never an option; they would stop when they had had enough.

This is the cowboy experience at its purest – riding willing horses in wide open spaces, unfettered by fences, roads and artificial barriers. By letting go, by trusting, by opening one’s mind to new experiences, a new level of freedom is reached, one which helps you find a new perspective on life.

It certainly helped me find my smile!

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