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Swish seaside resort for the Spanish aristocracy at the beginning of the 20th century, Santander's cool climate means it will never make it to the top of the sun-seeker/beach-lovers holiday list. But its bustling fishing quarter, fascinating museums, tree-lined boulevards and elegant cafes - where you can sit out sipping orujo de Potes and watching the world go by - make this Atlantic port a great place for an out of season weekend break.

Set at the heart of ‘green Spain’, an excellent network of roads links Santander with the Spanish Costas, Portugal and the main ferry ports. But if the city itself has a sophisticated visage, with more than a third of Cantabria given over to nature reserves, this is a wild region of cliff-lined coasts, winding roads and rugged scenery, framed by the mighty Picos de Europa mountain range.

LAP UP THE AUTHENTIC ATMOSPHERE
Laid back Santander is a city with fine sandy beaches, rocky coves, elegant boulevards and stunning architecture strung out along the Cantabrian coast. Out of season, when the tourists have gone home, it’s a wonderful place to soak up some of that authentic Spanish seaside atmosphere. This is a place where you’ll want to take time to amble and admire the glorious architecture of yesteryear, or bask in the bustle of busy street markets or saunter over to the bustling port and revel in odours of sardines grilling on a spit and the healthy tang of salt in the blustery air.

RAGS TO RICHES
Deriving its name from the martyred saint, Sant Emeterio, whose severed head was brought here in the third century, Santander’s story is one of ‘’rags to riches’ - several times over!

The centre of numerous naval battles during the Reconquista, a prosperous wool trade with Flanders transformed the hard-hit city into one of the most important seaports of the Castilian kings. In 1497, however, soldiers accompanying Margarita of Austria to Santander for her marriage with the crown prince of the catholic kings, carried the Plague with them. This unwarranted wedding present killed three quarters of the city’s population.

Trade with her America cousins gave Santander a new lease of life during the 18th century, but disaster struck again when the freighter Cabo Machichaco exploded in the bay, killing thousands and destroying countless ancient buildings.

At the turn of the 20th century the ship-wrecked city was launched once more by King Alfonso XIII, who made Santander his summer retreat. The seaside resort became one of Spain’s most fashionable watering places and rich bankers and Europe’s crowned heads came here to have fun, until calamity struck again in 1941 when a house fire got out of hand and destroyed most of the city’s old quarter.

FROM PLAZA TO FISHING PORT Stretched out Santander is split into two sections: the centre with its shops and historic architecture and the El Sardinero district where you’ll discover sandy beaches and chic villas, as well as a former royal palace and a popular casino.

The Plaza de Generalisimo, opposite the stunning modernist-style city hall, makes a good starting point for out-of -season strolling. This bustling square lies at the heart of Santander’s shopping district and your wallet will scream at the sight of all those shops selling Spanish antiques, leather goods, and vivid ceramics created just down the road in Santillana del Mar.

With eyes wide open take the Avenida de Calvo Sotelo to spot stunning samples of Santander’s 19th- and 20th-century architecture, including the Post Office and Banco de Espana. From Somorrostro Hill - where the cathedral now stands and the old walled city once stood – you’ll have fabulous views. Monument-lovers will want to visit Santander’s oldest preserved building, the fascinating – but confined - Crypt of Santísimo Cristo, whilst sweet-lovers will want to pop into a pasteleria and try some of the mouth-watering pastries for which Cantabria is famed. Order creamy sobaos pasiegos and quesadas pasiegas, or puff pastry treats like pantortillas de Reinosa and polkas de Torrelavega, and take them with you to Pereda gardens.

When the weather’s good this pretty park, dedicated to local-born writer José María de Pereda, makes an ideal spot for a leisurely picnic. After that you can saunter refreshed along the paseo de Pereda, or stop off in one of the terrace cafes which abound on this historic street and sample the local specialty, orujo de Potes, a sweet liqueur which packs a surprisingly powerful punch.

The Puerto Chico marina is just a short hop away from here. This area was once home to Santander’s fishing fleet, but now these intrepid seafarers have moved to Maliano docks, where they sell glittering sea-bass, sole, hake and sardines fresh from the sea, to restaurants like Las Penucas and Rhin who serve mouth-watering fish dishes alongside other Cantabrian specialties made with clams, giant crabs and goose barnacles.

STROLL TO EL SARDINERO A half hour’s walk along the villa-studded Reine Victoria avenue, with it’s fabulous views over the bay, will lead you to the glittering coves and fine sand of Santander’s El Sardinero beach district. Fringed by the vast Magdalena park, El Sardinero is dominated by the Palacio real, which was King Alfonso XIII’s 20th century summer retreat. Kids will love the park’s zoo full of seals, penguins and polar bears, as well as the galleons owned by famous Santander sailor and adventurer Vital Alsar, whilst parents will probably prefer the spikier pleasures of the Jardines de Piquío tropical gardens.

On a stormier note, if the rain starts pouring down its worth knowing that most of the city’s museums are free. Shelter in two of the best at the Museum of Fine Arts, which houses Cantabria's most important collection of paintings, or the Maritime Museum which has everything from the history of ship building to tanks of sting rays, turtles and sharks.

And if you’re feeling lucky why not act like Santander’s 20th-century Spanish aristocrats and head for the Gran Casino to sample Blackjack and Poker and all the other heady pleasures, which were later forbidden during Franco’s strict regime?

WHEN TO GO
A temperate climate and a surprising amount of late-season sunshine make Santander ideal for an autumn break, but don’t forget your brolly just in case.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
The Parque Cabo Mayor covers more than 100000m2 and constitutes one of Santander's most important green spaces. With its Cabo Mayor lighthouse (built in 1839 its the oldest in Cantabria) this park makes for spectacular walking on windswept days.

When the sun is shining its fun to take a 15-minute boat ride out to El Puntal beach and climb some of the most spectacular dunes in Spain.

WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE
Santander’s tourist office in the Pereda Jardins is easy to find. Turismo de Santander, Jardines de Pereda, Santander, 39004; tel: 942 216120. Or visit their website at: www.ayto-santander.es

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