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The small town of Bidart seems to have only recently opened its arms to tourism - there are few hotels or restaurants and the shore is mostly undeveloped. The narrow streets of half-timbered houses wind down towards a series of rocky coves, harbouring calm, shallow water protected by sand spits. Currents can be strong away from the shore, and large breakers crash further out.

Guethary is a prettier, more gentrified town, its tiny centre lined with Basque houses and small boutiques. The downside is the beach, which by this coast's standards is poor. There are a couple of arches of rocky sand with calm water, but they are unattractive and will only really appeal to families with very young children, or surfers who head beyond the rocks to the big waves. Saint-Jean-de-Luz
BR> Saint-Jean's half-timbered architecture, fine sheltered beach and fishing port make it the coast's most enjoyable town. The centre is beautiful, its network of cobbled streets and beamed historical houses converging on an old-fashioned leafy square. The beach, too, is excellent, the wide arch of soft yellow sand shelving into calm water. Saint-Jean is a popular spot - parking in high season is virtually impossible - but tourism has remained small-scale and family-oriented, and the town is fiercely proud of its Basque character.


BR> Just across the Nivelle from St-Jean is Ciboure, most notable for its historical faades lining the river - the oldest house was home to the composer Maurice Ravel. Yet the subdued streets that stretch back from the river feel like little more than a muted extension of St-Jean; there is little to keep visitors here. South of the centre is a small busy beach, backed by bland apartment blocks. With St-Jean so close, there seems little point in staying here.
BR> The coastal road approaching Hendaye is spectacular, the steep cliffs, wild hills and crashing surf giving the area an irresistibly romantic air. Yet Hendaye is a disappointment. The centre, Hendaye Ville, is a vaguely depressing town, spilling along the banks of the Bidassoa river, which marks the border with Spain.

As it nears the coast it changes into Hendaye Plage, a modern strip of hotels and apartment blocks lining a sizeable beach. The beach is the resort's saving grace, with soft sand shelving gently into calm water, making it a good choice for young families. Although the resort is one of the coast's least appealing, it does offer decent modern amenities, especially for families and older couples, many of whom come for the local thalassotherapy centre. Bayonne
BR> A few miles inland of Biarritz, Bayonne is a working town and even in high season remains agreeably tourist-free. It straddles the Adour and Nive rivers and is lined with narrow streets and half-timbered houses with red and green shutters. There is an interesting Basque Museum, but the main attraction here is wandering through the quiet lanes and stopping off for a slice of gateaux Basque, the local cake filled with cherries or creme patissiere, or a gloriously rich glass of chocolate at the acclaimed Cazenave shop.

Inland villages
BR> For a pleasant break from the beach, spend a few hours driving through the inland villages beyond Saint-Jean-de-Luz. The trip takes you through rolling hills and forests - look out for pottoks, the wild ponies that wander on to the road.

The first village you come to is Ascain, with its Basque farmhouses and local market. From here, head on to La Rhune, the highest peak in the area.

A small train chugs up to 1,000 ft, providing great views of the surrounding hills unfolding down to the coast. The next village is Sare, a pretty huddle of houses with nearby prehistoric caves, followed by Ainhoa, which provides some fine examples of Basque architecture. If you've got time, head further inland up the Nive Valley, finishing in the historic village of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Read more travel writing by Francisca Kellett