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A Library on Islam | Barnaby Rogerson
I often think about how to repack that boot full of books if I was sending a young traveller off on a journey
Agadez and the Air Mountains | Barnaby Rogerson
took some time for it to sink in that we were not looking at yesterday’s picnics but Neolithic hearths - completely undisturbed since they had been abandoned around 4,000 years ago
Aphrodite of the Beautiful Ass | Barnaby Rogerson | Turkey, Aegean, Cnidos
Lucian was here before us - some two thousand years before us - with his cheap jokes, his wise cracks and casual impieties
Bodrum | Barnaby Rogerson | Turkey, Aegean (Bodrum Peninsula), Bodrum
Right beside the hotel pool stands a ruined temple converted into a Byzantine church.
Gibraltar in History | Barnaby Rogerson
As a child on the Rock I heard many tales both mythological and historical; about the subterranean tunnel that connected the two Pillars of Hercules and of a fresh water well that yet raised and lowered itself with the tides
Have You Met the Colonel? | Barnaby Rogerson | Libyan Arab Jamahiriya, Tripoli, Tripoli
Libya creates a knee jerk response in conversation. "Have you met Colonel Qaddafi?" is followed by "is it safe?" After six years taking lecture tours round its unforgettable classical ruins, all I can say is
Each day as the dawn light ripples around the world, it awakens a continuous chant of morning prayer from the thirteen hundred million Muslim believers that are spread over our globe
Libya Sur Commande | Barnaby Rogerson | Libyan Arab Jamahiriya, Tripoli, Tripoli
I have plotted, schemed and tried to charm my way onto various expeditions into Libya and its Sahara over the last twelve years but this was my first command
Night Train from Stamboul | Barnaby Rogerson | Turkey, Marmara, Istanbul
Haydarpasha is one of the last temples of rail travel – a vast Saxe-Coburg-Gotha schloss that should, by rights, stand above the Rhine or above a firth in Sutherland, but is instead perched on the banks of the Bosphorus
North Africa Round-up | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Marrakech, Marrakech
Morocco is continuing to enjoy its well-deserved boom in up-market tourism. The growth in superb, characterful hotels in the old city of Marrakech and its surrounding suburban palmery continues apace. There can now be few cities in the world that can hope to match Marrakech's stock of stylish, ancient courtyard Riads
Not Smoking in Ethiopia | Barnaby Rogerson | Ethiopia, Addis Ababa, Addis Ababa
The miraculous is seldom far from the surface in Ethiopia, even in smoke-filled bars
Osama’s T-shirt and the Prophet’s Mantle | Barnaby Rogerson
I saw the face of Osama bin Laden just before Christmas, in a remote African town on the edge of the Sahara
Painters in North Africa | Barnaby Rogerson | Tunisia, Tunis and the North Coast, Tunis
Travelling through North Africa you do not need paintings. The streets are so triumphantly full of life, the markets so full of colour and the land so filled with light that you come indoors for a visual rest
Praise the Beauty of its Eyelashes: camel journeys in North Africa | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Southern Morocco, Zagora
Having admired their saddles in museums for years I remember the horror with which I faced my first wooden saddle on a real camel on the edge of the Sahara.
Prester John | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Southern Morocco, Sahara
I too have tried to quest after Prester John. A throw away line in an old French guidebook mentioned a 12th century fortress in a range of mountains on the edge of the Sahara
Roman Morocco | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Tangier
Every tour of Roman Morocco should start at Tangier, the three thousand year-old trading city that commands the one generous bay on the southern shore of the Straits of Gibraltar
Sacred Music Festival | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Fez
Amongst cushions, a mint-tea tent and an old fountain oozing before a garden pavilion, local Sufi brotherhoods play into the night
Sahara: The Garden of God | Barnaby Rogerson
It is sometimes referred to as the Garden of God: a place where the deity can walk without being disturbed by the evidence of man
Shopping and Sleeping in Marrakech | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Marrakech, Marrakech
A near inaccessible 60km-long Saharan beach had been swum at, an 11th century mountain-top fortress had been walked to and the remains of a 16th-century Sugar refinery had been explored…
Sicily with my Father | Barnaby Rogerson
A diet of Norman Lewis’s “The Honoured Society”, Simetti’s “On Persephone’s Island” and Michael Robb’s “Midnight in Sicily”, now filled every alley and piazza with dark, murderous Mafia secrets
The English Season in Morocco | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Marrakech, Marrakech
It is, as they say in Morocco, 'the English Season'. Like some strange breed of bird that migrates to its own discordant calendar the English have taken to visiting Morocco in February and March
The Four Faces of Algeria | Barnaby Rogerson | Algeria, Algiers, Algiers
There are deeper, more enduring currents that exist within the landscape, that elemental division of Algeria between the four faces of shore, mountain, plain and desert
The Sallee Rovers | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Atlantic Coast, Rabat
There never was, nor ever can be again, such a perfect example of a confederation of the brethren of the sea as that of the Pirate Republic of Bou Regreg
The Tissa Horse Festival | Barnaby Rogerson | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Tissa
During the horse festival Tissa becomes a vision of medieval splendour, like a precious illuminated manuscript brought back to life
Through a Glass Darkly: North Africa as seen through English travel writing | Barnaby Rogerson | Tunisia, Tunis and the North Coast, Tunis
For the reader of English there is a well-established body of North African travel writing which remains in print, cheaply and easily available in paperback
Tunis for the Weekend | Barnaby Rogerson | Tunisia, Tunis and the North Coast, Tunis
Tunis, ah yes. Well, I have always longed to see the ruins of Carthage. And so they should. Tunis is one of the great cities of the Mediterranean and if you live in Europe it is just a short flight away
Up the Nile on the Golden One - Dahibiya | Barnaby Rogerson | Egypt, Cairo and Giza, Cairo
Cairo cannot disappoint, most especially when you arrive during the last two nights of Ramadan
Venezuelan Gold | Barnaby Rogerson
My brother drops of a bag of coffee and a bag of sugar whenever he passes, and stays to hear the jungle gossip, about who is digging where, who has split up with who, and who has found gold or diamonds