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A Short Walk in the Hindu Crush | AA Gill
if we measure wealth in terms of any of the things that really matter, then India would be hosting the next G7 conference and sending charity workers to California
Crucifixes hang happily with Stars of David and Fatima’s Hand. Dimpled pink baby Jesuses lie among the worry beads and rosaries. Fezzes steeple the side piles of yarmulkes
Born to be Riled | AA Gill | United States, California, Los Angeles
Restaurants will let you smoke if they can, and they just love it if you do: it adds a rakish, bohemian, devil-may-care atmosphere that the locals are too fearfully self-obsessed to provide
Dripping Yarns | AA Gill | Iceland, Reykjavik, Reykjavik
A city that looks like a tin model of Dundee, where the ground bubbles, a tree is a landmark and everything smells of rotten egg, where they have man-killer winds and grow the finest women in the universe
Game Boy | AA Gill | Tanzania, Northern Tanzania, Serengeti
Africa makes sense of all that ecology-biodiversity-sustainable-habitat stuff that sounds so like the special pleading of socially inept, bearded weirdies when applied to a field in back-garden Britain. Here it has the depth and grace of a religious conviction
Hunforgiven | AA Gill | Germany, Berlin, Berlin
Time between leaving Berlin’s Tegel airport and mentioning the war: eight minutes, ten at the outside
Last Exit to Whipsnade | AA Gill | United Kingdom, South East England, Whipsnade
Other men dream of traversing deserts on mopeds, circumnavigating in balloons, punting up the Orinoco or just walking to some pole. But me, I’ve always yearned to visit every brown sign on the M1
Look Who's Stalking Now | AA Gill | United Kingdom, Wales, Brecon
Like most British men, I am the first adult male in my family for 100 years never to have worn uniform
Mad in Japan | AA Gill | Japan, Kanto, Tokyo
Modern Japanese people get born Shinto, married Christian, buried Buddhist and work Mazda. Consequently they believe everything and nothing
To be born male and Italian is to have won first prize in the Lottery of Life. This is one of nature’s incontrovertible truths...
Out of Their Element | AA Gill
The great thing about the Kalahari is that it hates you. It doesn’t have a welcome mat or a lei to drape over your shoulders or a glass of complimentary sangria
Phoenix, Arizona | AA Gill | United States, Arizona, Phoenix
You can fly to Phoenix for less than you can to Nice at the moment. True, it's a long haul, but then I'm not doing the hauling. I'd rather fly for ten hours than drive for five, and actually I secretly enjoy long flights
Return of the Native | AA Gill | United Kingdom, Edinburgh, Edinburgh
Nobody knows what the original people of Scotland were – cold is probably the best informed guess, and wet
Patagonia is unfeasibly beautiful and vast. The beauty never lets up, it’s like ocular tinnitus, a repetitive deafening of the eye, a visual peal of bells that rings from dawn to dusk
If you see a car crash, your immediate reaction is: “Oh, poor passengers.” If on of the cars is a Rolls, you think: “Oh, poor car”
Scumball Rally | AA Gill | Monaco, Monaco, Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo is the sort of slum that rich people build when they lack for nothing except taste and a sense of the collective good
Selassie Come Home | AA Gill | Ethiopia, Addis Ababa, Addis Ababa
Yet if you shift the eyeline of history from its well-oiled western axis and look up from the hot, ancient south, Selassie is a monumental, titanic figure
At dark tables, couples drink Cuba Libres - the ironic name given to a socialist rum drowned in Yankee Coca-Cola
The Coolest Beauty Contest in the World | AA Gill | Iceland, Reykjavik, Reykjavik
I was sitting in a café in downtown Reykjavik and a woman I had just met gave me an odd look and said hesitantly, “You wouldn’t like to be a judge for Miss Iceland, would you, by any chance?”
You couldn’t have chosen a more handsome tribe to starve to death: they are tall and rangy, blue-black with high cheeks and broad foreheads with beautiful chevrons scarred on their brows
A disaster organised and and executed with the precipitate callousness, greed and sheer eye-bulging stupidity that only hands-on communism can muster
A personal account of the famine in Sudan, previously published in The Sunday Times Magazine, 1999
The Thin Line | AA Gill | Italy, Lombardy, Milan
Everyone looked as if, given the choice between a demon lover and the perfect handbag, they’d go for the bag
The Town that Russia Forgot | AA Gill | Russia, Baltic Coast, Kaliningrad
Only a very big idea and a steely will could have so relentlessly removed every scintilla of aesthetic pleasure from the vista
Cheshire is mock everything: mock gentility, mock Tudor Gregorian, mock family, mock style, mock casual and mock happiness. Cheshire thumbs its nose job at mockery
To the Manure Born | AA Gill | United Kingdom, South West England, Stoneleigh
Here, no equinity is left unworshipped: hitching, harnessing, plaiting, braiding, contests by age, height, breed and sex; they skitter past for three days, like Genghis Khan’s Girl Guides
Unforgettable travel | AA Gill | Botswana, Kalahari, Makgadikgadi National Park
Kubu Island sits on the southernmost tip of the Makgadikgadi Pan, Botswana: if you’ve ever wanted to know what lies behind the back of beyond, this is probably it...
Why Go To Edinburgh? | AA Gill | United Kingdom, Edinburgh, Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city of two distinct halves - the old and the new. Of course there’s nothing radical about that, except that here both halves are equally impressive, from the inspirational public housing projects to the sublime grandeur of the Royal Mile.