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Among the Sadhus | William Dalrymple
It’s a measure of the sheer antiquity of this extraordinary religion: as if Hinduism is a faith whose history is to be recorded not in human but in geological time
At Donna Georgina’s | William Dalrymple
Most Goans still consider their state a place apart: a cultured Mediterranean island, quite distinct from the rest of India. As they quickly let you know, they eat bread, not chapattis
At the Court of the Fish-eyed Goddess Queen | William Dalrymple | India, Tamil Nadu, Madurai
To the Tamils, this is a sacred landscape, and the origins of every feature are elaborately catalogued in the myths of Madurai.
Battling for the Buddha | William Dalrymple | India, Uttar Pradesh, Ayodhya
Religious disputes were to India in the Nineties what strikes were to Britain in the Seventies: more than annoying irritations, they define the sickness of a nation and an age
Dublin | William Dalrymple | Ireland, East Coast Ireland, Dublin
Sometime in the late fifties, the Dublin writer Brendan Behan was having a drink in the Cafe Deux Magots in Paris when he got into conversation with an American literary critic…
East of Eton | William Dalrymple | India, Madhya Pradesh, Gwalior
Yet if corruption has set into many of the old institutions of the Raj - the civil service, parliament and so on - one set of institutions that have vigorously resisted any accommodation with the post-colonial world
In Judea | William Dalrymple | Israel, Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Jerusalem
"Look at it!" said Fr Theopanes waving a hand at the dark rocky gorge beneath us. "There it is: the Valley of Doom. The Valley of Dreadful Judgement." Below us the monastic buildings of Mar Saba fell away
In Zanzibar | William Dalrymple | Tanzania, Zanzibar & Islands, Stone Town
The crossing took nearly four hours and it was late evening by the time we chugged into view of the Zanzibar coast. As the first minarets of Stone Town rose from the sea ahead of us
In the Kingdom of Avadh | William Dalrymple | India, Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow
On the eve of the Indian Mutiny of 1857, Lucknow, the capital of the Kingdom of Avadh, was indisputably the largest, most prosperous and most civilised pre-colonial city in India
Lahore: Blood on the Tracks | William Dalrymple | Pakistan, North West Frontier, Lahore
The railways are now such a part of the everyday life of the subcontinent that it is difficult today to take in the revolution they bought about, or the degree to which they both created and destroyed the India of the Raj
Last Stand of the Byzantines | William Dalrymple
It took a few seconds for our eyes to adjust from the bright light of the olive groves to the darkly frescoed gloom of the interior. Slowly, out of the shadows, there appeared an entire, glittering Byzantine court
On The Frontier | William Dalrymple | Pakistan, North West Frontier, Peshawar
Violence is to the North West frontier what religion is to the Vatican. It is a raison d’etre, a way of life, an obsession, a philosophy
Parashakti Cochin | William Dalrymple | India, Kerala, Kerala
As I walked pass, she jumped up, rocked unsteadily one way and the other, then lunged towards my face with her long, dirt-stained fingernails. I side-stepped, and she lurched after me, one foot dragging slightly
Primate Suspect: The Terrorist Apes of Jaipur | William Dalrymple | India, Rajasthan, Jaipur
There seemed to be a consensus among the crowd that Jaipur had virtually come under siege from its resident regiments of menacing monkeys...
Outside the cemetery I approached an old Creole woman. In the gathering darkness she had set up a brazier on an old oil drum and was now roasting corn cobs on the embers
Seidnaya | William Dalrymple | Syrian Arab Republic, The Southern Provinces, Damascus
At first sight, with its narrow windows and great rugged curtain walls, it looks more like a Crusader castle than a convent
If I really wanted to comprehend St. Lucia, said the politician, there was only one thing for it: I should talk to an obeah man. Or, better still, a gadee: a black magic woman
Surrey in Tibet | William Dalrymple | India, Himachal Pradesh, Shimla
Anarchy is to the porters of New Delhi station what order is to the clerks of the Credit Suisse, Geneva: without it they would be lost…
The Ganges | William Dalrymple
Below on the bank of the river, small groups of newly-arrived pilgrims were busy setting up camp. One or two - older men - were already standing in the shallows of the river, stripped to the waist
The Monks of St Anthony | William Dalrymple
The monks of St. Anthony's remain wonderfully Dark Age in their outlook and conversation. Exorcisms, miraculous healings and ghostly apparitions of long-dead saints are to the monks
The Sacred Music of Fez | William Dalrymple | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Fez
Today, almost all the mosques, madrasas, bazaars and caravansarais than Ibn Arabi knew eight hundred years ago are still extant, and mostly quite unchanged
The Temples of Kanchipuram | William Dalrymple
As cymbals clashed and temple drums clattered, the giant temple nagashwaram blew a succession of fanfares that echoed around the thousand-pillared hall like a great screech of peacocks
The Wasteland | William Dalrymple | India, Bihar, Patna
Two thousand years ago, it was under a Bo tree near Patna that the Buddha received his Enlightenment; but that was probably the last bit of good news that ever came out of Bihar
Under the Char Minar | William Dalrymple | India, Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad
Fibs, said Mir Moazam Hussain. "That's what everyone of your generation thinks I'm telling, at least when I talk about Hyderabad in the old days. Oh yes, you can't fool me. You all think I'm telling the most outrageous pack of fibs."