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Battle of the Beachhead | Mark Eveleigh
This particular beach is the only one in the world where massive numbers of endangered Pacific Olive Ridley turtles swarm in the phenomenon that is known in Spanish as the arribada
Buffalo Soldiers | Mark Eveleigh | Indonesia, Nusa Tenggara/ Southeast Islands, Bali
As they draw closer I notice the painted horns that are flattened along the backs of the stampeding bulls and the carved wooden dragon that rides between their heads
Bulls, Booze and Bedlam | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Navarra, Pamplona
Even Hemingway – who invariably chose to study ‘violent death’ from a well-appointed balcony – never claimed that running with the bulls was the sort of activity for sensible, well-adjusted citizens
Candy-Coated, Stream-Lined Rocket Ships | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Catalunya, Barcelona
The icing on the cake is undeniably the candy-coated, streamlined rocket-ships that are the great spires of the Sagrada Familia Basilica
Chefchaouen: Forbidden Citadel | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Chefchaouen
There is an ancient town, in Northern Morocco, whose rows of ice-blue terraces seem to be bracketed, shelf-like, onto the walls of the Rif Mountains
Cockfighting in Bali | Mark Eveleigh | Indonesia, Nusa Tenggara/ Southeast Islands, Bali
Two hundred men are yelling and gesticulating in what seems like total pandemonium. The air is thick with clove-scented cigarettes and saffron-coloured dust
Desert Storm | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Southern Morocco, Sahara
For two days we had been driving towards the desert and then suddenly, one sunny afternoon in a Moroccan market town, the desert came to us
Divine Horses of Rajasthan | Mark Eveleigh
“Riding a Marwari is like looking at the world through the sights of a rifle,” my riding companion had said earlier that morning
Don Justo and the Home-made Cathedral | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Madrid, Madrid
Eighty-year-old Justo Gallego Martínez has spent the last forty-four years building a ‘home-made cathedral,’ single-handed, in a village near Madrid
Fez: The Imperial Beehive | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Fez
Small boys tout for business: “Little guide, little price,” they squeak as they tag along at your elbow
Granada: Europe's most African City | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Andalucia, Granada
‘An African paradise set under the Sierras like a rose preserved in snow’ is possibly the best description that Granada will ever be awarded
Hi-Tech Old-town | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Andalucia (Cordoba), Cordoba
It is strange that this most traditional of historical cities should be spearheading a move in the most high–tech city tours
In Loving Memory: Saint Valentine | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Madrid, Madrid
The Catholic Church recognises several St Valentines but, with more than enough saints to cover almost every trauma in life, even his sacred role has been usurped in Spain
In the Hoof-prints of El Cid | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Castilla-La Mancha, Toledo
Old Castile has seen its share of rogue riders in times-past and we were following in the hoof-prints of the region’s most famous hero-hoodlum
Journey into the Red Zone | Mark Eveleigh
My would-be ambushers were a bandit tribe known as the Dahalo, who looked like they were set to make my trek through the lawless region of the Zone Rouge more of an adventure than I had bargained for
Jousting With Giants | Mark Eveleigh
The enthusiasm with which Strider tackled the near-vertical walls of these gullies was a testament to the bumper sticker on the back of Steve’s saddle - Best 4x4xfar! - and I knew that he could outrun an elephant…but I wasn’t too confident about my chances of still being with him when he’d done it
Spend a little ‘quality time’ in that Garden of Eden and it soon becomes apparent that every living thing has decided to dedicate its life mission to your torment
King of the Hill | Mark Eveleigh
When Aldous Huxley visited Guatemala in the early 1930s he found communities who, in their misguided fervour, actively worshipped Judas Iscariot as a god
Let it Rain Down: Zimbabwe | Mark Eveleigh | Zimbabwe, Zambezi National Park, Victoria Falls
It seems that the average Zimbabwean had apparently not read those press reports. Or perhaps it is simply that the famous Zimbabwean friendliness is too deeply rooted to be wrenched out by power-crazed propaganda
Madagascar – The Island Continent | Mark Eveleigh
In the 13th century Marco Polo reported rumours of Madagascar’s incredible riches: "more elephants are bred here than in any other province . . . they have leopards and lynxes and lion also in great number"
Meals on Wheels | Mark Eveleigh
I wondered if a couple of tonnes of Japanese metalwork would be able to stand up to this much elephant
Medina Mercedes | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Fez
Known to Fez’s legion of guides as ‘Medina Mercedes,’ there are an estimated four thousand horses, mules and donkeys working in the labyrinth of alleyways that make up Old Fez
Mistletoe and Vino: Christmas in Madrid | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Madrid, Madrid
Many bars won’t even open before 4am and will stay busy until 10. There are restaurants here where the waiters won’t blink an eye if you ask to reserve a table for 3am
Morning of the World | Mark Eveleigh | Indonesia, Nusa Tenggara/ Southeast Islands, Bali
The Balinese believe that when they die they will find heaven to be very similar to the earthly paradise that the gods have loaned them
Morocco – The Northern Frontier | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Chefchaouen
Legend has it that Hercules once pulled the two continents of the Old World apart at the point where Djebal Tarik (now Gibraltar) and Djebal Musa, the two Pillars of Hercules, lie today
Mythical Creatures of Madagascar | Mark Eveleigh
Anything is possible on an island where the bat-eared, rat-toothed, fox-tailed, long-fingered aye-aye turns out to be, not the fantastic taxidermic hoax that it was first declared but a product of natural selection
Old Man of the Forest | Mark Eveleigh
For the moment Gunung Leuser is still probably the best place to see this most enchanting of apes in the wild
Out with the Old, In with the Nudes | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Navarra, Pamplona
“Pamplona is changed of course,” wrote Hemingway, during one of his last visits to the fiestas of San Fermin, “but not as much as we are older. I found that if you took a drink it got very much the same as it always was”
Overland Uncovered: South America | Mark Eveleigh | Peru, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, Cuzco
I, for one, had been happy to arrive in Quito and not to return to the cold-water flophouse where I had been mugged during my last visit
Overlanding Uncovered: Africa | Mark Eveleigh | Kenya, Nairobi, Nairobi
Apart from a bout of malaria, a box-jellyfish attack, a baboon raid, a lost passport, and one girl getting mauled by a lion, the trip went off with surprisingly few mishaps
Part of the Stampede | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Navarra, Pamplona
The town hall plaza and all the cobbled streets of the old town become a swirling river of white costumes, flashing with the scarlet flotsam of bandannas and sashes
Saving Mr Stripes | Mark Eveleigh | India, Rajasthan, Ranthambhore Nature Reserve
On the day that the last wild tiger dies we will have committed an unpardonable sin. For, as the Minas believed, on that day we will have killed a god
Saving the Rhino | Mark Eveleigh | Kenya, Nairobi, Nairobi
Shida is what you might call a ‘problem child.’ He is a fifteen month-old black rhino calf - and a quarter-ton of blustering adolescent bravado. Even his name means ‘Problem’ in Swahili
Secrets of the Lost World | Mark Eveleigh
By the light of only the tiniest sliver of moon, I climbed the stone face of the Great Pyramid in the area known today as El Mundo Perdido - The Lost World
Ship of Stone | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Castilla-Leon, Segovia
Legend has it that, way back in days of yore, the Devil fell in love with a beautiful girl from the Spanish town of Segovia
Spain: Interview with a Bullfighter | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Madrid, Madrid
Bullfighting is classed as an art rather than a sport: not so much a contest as a life-and-death drama in which there’s only one natural outcome
Spain: Literary Expats | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Catalunya, Pamplona
Over the centuries Spain has made ‘prisoners’ of many foreign writers who have come to travel here, to call it home and in several cases to fight for it
Spain’s Temples of Wine | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, La Rioja, Santa Domingo de la Calzada
Pilgrims travelling across this holy trail were once lured by the soaring sandstone towers of the village’s mighty church. But a new type of wayfarer is now arriving to pay homage at the most ambitious of Spain’s new ‘Temples of Wine'
Sumatra: On a Wing and a Prayer | Mark Eveleigh
Tattooed Dayak sailors from Borneo and swarthy Acehnese from the jungle towns of northern Sumatra offload endless cargos of hewn wood
Sunshine Coast to the Heart of Darkness | Mark Eveleigh
It's just another drive to the office for us by now," laughs Stella Marsden, as the Toyota rattled its way through our third hour of rutted dirt-tracks amid a cloud of talcum-fine 'bulldust'
Surfing the Golden Triangle | Mark Eveleigh | Portugal, Algarve, Ericeira
Around the northern fishing villages of Ericeira and Peniche there are countless reefs and beach-breaks and spots like Supertubes and Coxos have earned a near-legendary place in European surf-lore
Tangier: Journey into the Interzone | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Northern Morocco, Tangier
The ‘Interzone’ was a Babel of tongues and intrigues. A place where spies and double agents plotted with thieves, and adventurers drank with millionaires and contrabandistas
The Big Wet Red | Mark Eveleigh
Even ‘roos wouldn’t be seen dead on the Stuart Highway north of Coober Pedy and the only way for a driver to keep himself awake is to count the dry gullies
The Donkey's Advocate | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Andalucia (Cordoba), Rute
“This is the Mercedes of the ass world,” says Pascual as we stare at what is by far the biggest donkey I have ever seen
The Little Things That Change the World | Mark Eveleigh
“Nice millipede,” Dr Olson cooed as the creature began to measure itself out across his palm. “Look at all those legs. It’s a classic creepy-crawler!”
The Little Things That Change the World | Mark Eveleigh
There were millipedes, too numerous to count, and swarms of giant cockroaches, four-inches long, that seemed to triple in size when they flew
The Tomb of Kaddi-Kra | Mark Eveleigh
An immense natural amphitheatre lay spread before us, with patches of eucalyptus shining silver in the clear morning light and sporadic water courses that were marked by marching lines of red river gums
The Trail to the Last Oasis | Mark Eveleigh | Morocco, Atlas Mountains, Figuig
Long before I could distinguish it for myself, Okach pointed out a faint line of greenery in the peachy glare of the sinking sun
The World's Fastest Ballgame | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Catalunya, Pamplona
With his beret clamped under his arm and a cigar and a glass of patxaran liquor lodged in his thick fingers, Asensio seems to be the archetypical Jai Alai spectator
Thumbing the Back o'Beyond | Mark Eveleigh
When Crocodile Dougee and I made camp at the edge of Orange the sun was setting fast on what Sal called ‘a two-dog night’ - the Aboriginals regulated the temperature in their vast outdoor dormitory by dragging their hunting dogs ever closer as the nights grew colder
Trucking the Gringo-Trail | Mark Eveleigh
The ‘gringo-trail’ from Ecuador to Bolivia runs through sun-baked deserts and frozen Altiplano, following the ridge of The Andes through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery that the world can offer
Turkish Delight | Mark Eveleigh | Turkey, Marmara, Buyukada
It is said that the exiles were often driven half crazy by the scent of jasmine, honeysuckle and mimosa that pervades these islands
Voyage of the Toftevaag | Mark Eveleigh | Spain, Costa de la Luz, Puerto de Santa Maria
“Cetacean soup at two o’clock!” was the traditional call to action-stations from spotters in the crow’s nest of the Toftevaag
Waterworld | Mark Eveleigh | Brunei Darussalam, Brunei, Brunei
Kampong Ayer’s estimated twenty miles of boardwalks defy orientation for an outsider but the joy of the water village is simply to wander, aimless and wide-eyed