Review of Grange Hotel, by Ben Cooper

Looking up at The Grange Hotel's handsome regency facade, a thought crosses my mind that, surely, must have occurred to plenty of other arriving guests: 'Nice... but is it really worthy of a place in The Sunday Times Travel Magazine's 100 Best Hotels in the World?' After all, this isn't the sun-kissed vineyards of Tuscany or some deserted Bali beach; this is York. On a mizzly January morning.

Having shaken ourselves down in reception like a couple of wet dogs, we're greeted warmly and efficiently. Behind us a rather splendid stairwell snakes skywards from an inviting seating area. It quickly becomes clear that The Grange is a canny beast, and chooses not to reveal all of its charms straight away, but instead slow-feeds them to its guests.

Upstairs, Room 12 - one of 36 - is spacious and tasteful. The blue vine-patterned furnishings set an elegant tone, marred only very slightly by the unsightly (but necessary?) trouser press. The bed, though, is truly divine: a huge, voluminous affair that devours you as soon as you stretch out on it.

Surveying the scene a little more closely, a beady eye for detail is evident everywhere. An umbrella sits in the cupboard alongside a full-length mirror (so often overlooked); the fluffiest of fluffy white bathrobes hang in the black and white tiled bathroom; turndown and the way in which towels are folded hint at the use of a set square. Simple things, done well.

Away from the rooms, in terms of facilities The Grange doesn't really do unnecessary frills or fripperies. A couple of beautiful, high-ceilinged function rooms divide their time between business meetings and weddings; there's plenty of on-site parking space. But on the whole it trusts in the atmosphere instilled by its striking premises to win you over.

Both of its dining options are well-regarded. But while the Cellar Bar is a relaxed affair, it's The Ivy Brasserie that picks up the plaudits. In the morning it's certainly an agreeable space: in greys and muted reds, it's more contemporary than the rest of the hotel; light pours in through the high windows; staff buzz around with smiles and hearty breakfasts of locally-sourced ingredients.

It was only as we checked out after breakfast that it really hit me: The Grange is deceptively good - an old-fashioned English hotel without the chintz or stuffy self-regard. Because it's so unfussy and unpretentious, the fact that every single element of your stay has been absolutely impeccable sneaks up on you. And that's it, basically - the secret to its success. You don't need sweeping views of the Tuscan hills when you manage to do that.