Review of Chewton Glen, by Liat Joshi

Chewton Glen, on the edge of the New Forest, has frequently been lauded as the grand dame of English country house hotels. Its accolades range from five red AA stars to a Michelin star for the restaurant, and inclusion in many a list of top hotels.

But despite its charms, Chewton's management is aware that its stuffy image might be off-putting, so they've introduced a few nods to modernity. The restaurant's dress code has been relaxed, now merely preferring 'gentlemen' to wear jackets instead of requiring them to. Some of the public areas and one or two bedrooms have been refurbished without a scrap of chintz - although most of the place is still bedecked in florals. They've even fitted Bang & Olufsen sound systems in the rooms, although the CDs provided are unlikely to appeal to the younger guests Chewton is trying to attract - our rooms included Cliff Richard and Johnny Cash albums - not the sort of thing you'd find somewhere like Babington House.

It's a shame Chewton is trying to compete with the boutique hotels, as it does 'traditional English country house hotel' as well as anywhere. It has all the positive features expected of such an establishment - the croquet lawn, the manicured grounds, the afternoon teas - but none of the negative ones - the plumbing doesn't creak, the showers are forceful enough to keep even American travellers happy and the rooms are well sound-proofed.

In the restaurant, a largely youngish French team serves largely oldish English customers with an unusual mix of efficiency and friendliness. There's also a surprisingly lively atmosphere in there; this isn't one of those dining rooms where people talk in whispers and you can hear a teaspoon drop. The food mixes French and English ideas, uses plenty of local ingredients and lives up to expectations given the Michelin star. The five-course Menu Gourmand is particularly worth a go.

The newly built spa is noteworthy for its huge circular hydrotherapy pool; with trompe d'oeil ceiling that has tiny, star-like lights that come on at night. The hotel spa essentials are all there too - gym, exercise studio, treatment rooms, etcetera.

Even the smallest of the bedrooms, the Bronze rooms, are a generous size and Silver rooms, one level up, would easily be labelled junior suites in lesser establishments.

Many of the bathrooms have double showers and baths with room for two - and Molton Brown goodies to use in them. Add to these, complimentary half bottles of champagne and Valrhona chocolates on arrival, the smoothest of sheets, Frette bathrobes and Chewton is a pretty good bet for a saucy weekend away.

While the bathrooms mix modern and older styles, the bedrooms are firmly traditional. The owners have individually designed each one so details vary, but typically they have quite staid floral furnishings, mahogany antique furniture and fluted lampshades.

But despite the fact Chewton Glen doesn't provide the contemporary chic on offer elsewhere, even the most fervent boutique hotel fan will find it hard not to be seduced by the luxury and undoubtedly excellent service on offer.