Review of Hatta Fort Hotel, by Vanessa Kaoukji

Open since 1981, and part of the Relais and Chateaux group, this is the grandfather of hotels in Dubai. Walking into the hotel is like walking back into the 1980's, but there is something about Hatta Fort Hotel that makes it one of the most charming places to stay in Dubai.

Situated in the Hajar mountains, you have to drive through Oman, albeit for only five minutes, on the hour long drive from the city. This is due to a strange kink in the border but means that Hatta Fort Hotel is not only a great getaway from Dubai, but is a good stopping point on a trip to Oman. The craggy scree-covered mountains attract hikers and Hatta pools, natural rock pools with turquoise waters only half an hour from Dubai, attract weekender's. Sadly these pools have become littered over the years and because both the Omani and Dubai governments turn a blind eye, it is up to the hotel to periodically clean up the area.

There is plenty here to keep even the most active guest busy. There are walking, hiking or running tracks around the property and into the mountains or the hotel can organise a trip to Hatta pools for a picnic. There is also clay pigeon shooting, golf and archery at the hotel. If you want to get a feel for old Dubai, have a wander around Hatta village. There is not much here other than a few café's, but the Heritage Village set up by the government, will give an idea of how things used to be.

A better display of kitsch cannot be found than in the bar in the main hotel. The barman refers to it as James Bond's bar, which is pretty accurate. Brown faux suede, mirrored walls, cream leather sofas, walnut ceiling - it's a fantastic place to enjoy a drink before dinner. Al Jeema restaurant is the more formal of the hotel's two restaurants (the other being open-air and overlooking the pool). It is not a very atmospheric room, but a couple singing covers of age-old songs keep the place alive. The food is good and staff will gather to simultaneously lift the silver domes off your plates.

The 50 chalet-style rooms are spacious and charming. Vaulted pine ceilings are what give them the chalet touch and although it is totally incongruous to have chalets in the mountains in Dubai, you can't help but fall in love with them. Bathrooms are small but clean. Every room has a balcony with a view of the mountains and bougainvillea climbs up the wall to the roof. The rooms interconnect on either side to other rooms, which is very convenient for families or groups of friends but it does mean that you can hear your neighbours coming and going. One other down side is that the highway runs just outside the hotel's grounds so although you can't hear anything from you room, lying by the pool you will hear lorries barreling down the road.

For its faults the staff here are very friendly and helpful. Many of them have been employed at the hotel since it opened and are like a part of the family. There is a charm here that nowhere else in Dubai has managed to capture, and nothing can beat the sound of the birds that accompany you from the main building to your room or the sight of the mountains.