Review of Four Seasons Des Bergues, by Brian Johnston

This luxury hotel stands right on the edge of the Rhone River where it leaves Lake Geneva, as if wondering whether to dip an elegant toe into the chilly waters. The Hotel des Bergues is the dowager duchess of Geneva hotels. Opened in 1834, it was Geneva's first hotel, and you could hardly beat the location, right in the city centre and just minutes away from the old town and financial district. Most of the rooms and public areas at this luxury hotel have views over the lake and distant Alps, with Geneva's fountain adding a majestic touch.

Once you step inside the lobby, guests of this luxury hotel will see that elegant order is what this famous hotel is all about: the marble floors shine like mirrors and the cream drapes hang to luxurious effect, every crease arranged to perfection. Once the haunt of European monarchs and now of diplomats, business people and European high society, this luxury hotel manages to avoid the stuffiness of many top hotels, and its service is surprisingly informal and friendly; even the conference centre manages a great deal of charm.

The facilities

From decoration to delicacies, this luxury hotel's decadence is not just in the style or architecture but indeed in the quality of cuisine. Traditional and elegant, Il Lago serves the finest Northern Italian dishes accompanied by luxurious French, Swiss and Italian wines. Intimate and private, the atmosphere of Il Lago is perfect for a romantic dinner or quaint breakfast. Le Bar des Bergues is available for light snacks and cocktails.

An oasis from the city at this luxury hotel is the spa and ESPA treatments. With the intent of rejuvenation and complete indulgence, here guests will enjoy a selection of spa therapies as well as ancient techniques. Herbal tea baths start things off to relieve stress and tension, what follows is up to the guest to decide because treatments and concepts are tailored individually at this luxury hotel. Up-to-date fitness facilities are available to guests as well to create a body and mind balance.

The rooms

A total refurbishment of the hotel in 2002 has added a lot of useful modern amenities but has thankfully not distracted from the historic atmosphere of the 103 rooms in this luxury hotel. Many of them (and all the suites, which have balconies) overlook the lake, though others have courtyard and city views. The furnishings are French (Directoire and Louis Philippe styles), the chandeliers crystal, the bathrooms marble, but none of it is heavy; indeed, the impression is one of bright airiness. Rooms at this luxury hotel are decorated in light blue, pink and green pastel shades. Cushions with floral prints match the actual flowers in scattered vases, while graceful occasional lamps and decorative pieces add a homey touch. And if potential guests think French elegance sounds a bit uncomfortable, fear not: oversize towels, thick bathrobes, and mattresses like gargantuan marshmallows will have future guests of this luxury hotel snuggling up in no time. Somewhere among it all, the hotel has hidden up-to-date conveniences: flat-screen TVs that can be turned towards you, heated towel racks, DVD players, high-speed internet access and steam-resistant mirrors.