Review of Amangalla, by Jeroen Bergmans

Amangalla has a rich heritage that stretches back a century to when it was Sri Lanka's first luxury hotel. Back in 1865 the grand, seventeenth-century headquarters of the Dutch East India Company in Galle Fort became The New Oriental Hotel (or NOH). It soon became a favourite stop-off for luxury P&O cruises and by the Sixties and Seventies was a favourite haunt for rock stars who partied there in blissful obscurity.

But by the time the seventeenth-century Dutch fort was declared a World Heritage site in 1988, the hotel had become a faded, dusty flop house for backpackers. Legend has it that Nestor Brohier, the colourful propietress, would sit in the lobby flanked by her two dalmations and vet the guests as they entered, claiming there were no rooms available if they weren't appropriately attired.

But since it re-opened as the Amangalla in 2005, it has regained its glamorous status and is once again full of starlets and CEOs thanks to the magic touch of its new owner, legendary hotelier Adrian Zecha.

Architect Kerry Hill orchestrated the renovation of Amangalla, retaining the hotel's colonial charm by salvaging what was left of the original furniture, commissioning local craftsmen to reproduce more and filling the charming little library with tokens and treasures from the its colourful past. Old prints, maps and BOAC airline posters declaring 'Welcome to Ceylon' decorate the corridors and two original Ambassador cars shipped in from India provide a final, nostalgic flourish.

Chef Fritz Zwahlen has created an authentic menu of traditional local curries and Sri Lankan string hoppers as well as modern Mediterranean dishes to cater to less exotic palettes.

Amangalla's stunning modern pool surrounded by ancient frangipani trees takes centre stage in its 200-year-old landscaped, tropical garden. Behind it a secluded yoga and meditation pavilion is peaceful sanctuary for blissful contemplation. The candle-lit spa, The Baths, has become something of a legend in Sri Lanka. Its five, marble-clad treatment rooms offer exclusive luxury ayurvedic therapies ranging from three to 14 days.

Dedicated Amanjunkies will be delighted by the hotel's smiley, beautifully-attired personal butlers who are assigned to each room. With an intimate knowledge of Galle Fort's narrow streets, ancient ramparts, colonial churches and exclusive boutiques, they are the perfect guides around town. Visitors who want to relax after a couple of days exploring the charms of Galle Fort can combine their stay with a couple of nights at sister property, the boutique resort Amanwella, which is only a couple of hours' drive down the coast.

All 28 rooms at Amangalla are furnished with antiques, four-poster beds, free-standing bathtubs and rain showers. The hotel's secluded, two-story Garden House is a lavish private villa set back from the main building which is perfect for honeymooners.