Review of Hotel Albatroz, by Daniel Scott

It is hard to imagine anybody not enjoying a stay at the Hotel Albatroz. Everything about this property, situated just 30 kilometres from Lisbon, in the busy seaside village of Cascais, conspires to leave an indelible impression of loveliness.

First of all there is the grace of the twin nineteenth century Portuguese mansions it occupies. Then there is the hotel’s position, above the rocks on the waterfront, jutting into an often-grumbling Atlantic sea. Identifiably a Cascais landmark, around the corner from the marina and the old town and at the far end of the beach, it nonetheless retains the feel of a secluded villa. This is a notable achievement in midsummer, when the seafront becomes ludicrously oversubscribed and the only breeze in town seems to be the one fanning through the hotel grounds.

But above all, the Albatroz hits just the right note in terms of its unstuffy sophistication, sense of warm Portuguese hospitality and the creature comforts expected of a five star property.

Good impressions begin at reception and with the concierge, for whom nothing seems like too much trouble, and are confirmed by the whole Albatroz team, from charming General Manager Mariana Soares Franco to the chambermaids. The approach is gentle, smiley and respectful but never overly formal.

It feels comfortable lolling around all of the public spaces, whether it is beside the main egg-shaped pool at the front of the hotel or in the light and airy lounge. In inclement weather, it feels particularly snug pausing in the lounge with a book, or looking out to the turbulent sea through its large windows. Nor are you likely to be waiting here long before somebody recognises your need for a cold drink or a coffee.

At lunchtime and in the evening guests gravitate to the patio of the hotel bar looking out over Cascais bay, moving onto the intimate (just 10 or 12 tables) but spacious Albatroz restaurant, which faces back along the jagged coast to Estoril. Fresh Atlantic fish and shellfish are invariably the star attractions here, presented with style and individuality. A typical light lunch here might include prawns in garlic and lemon butter, followed by a squid risotto or a delicate lobster lasagne and rounded off with a gorgeously fresh and creamy chocolate mouse. If the restaurant needs any further recommendation then simply take note of the number of Lisbon business people who frequent it at lunchtime. Breakfast overlooking the beach here is a generous spread of fresh fruit (including mango, papaya and kiwi), as well as an unfailingly tempting selection of Portuguese breads, pastries, cheeses and meats.

Bedrooms in this wing of the hotel, to the left as you look out to sea, are traditionally furnished with dark wood dressing tables, old-style long-drop shutters and king-sized beds with big European pillows. Their only drawback is the potential for noise from the beach and an ancient plumbing system. In the main part of the hotel, rooms overlooking the pool are more colourful and feel a little younger and more feminine, with designer marble bathrooms and their own balconies. There are a few more modern rooms in the lemony yellow villa to the right at the front, with steps down to another small cliff-top pool.

Staying at the Albatroz on a long weekend visit to Lisbon works well. The centre of the Portuguese capital is just a half-hour train ride away from the nearby station and trains run regularly until late at night. Belem and its magnificent Renaissance monastery, chunky modern monument to the Age of Discovery and ancient tower, sits on the banks of the river Tagus between Cascais and the city centre. Cascais itself, and in particular the back lanes and alleys of the old town, is fun to wander around, with plenty of cheerful bars and restaurants, some upmarket shops and a market on Wednesday mornings. It is also an easy stroll along the esplanade to Estoril if you feel like a slight change of scene or want to lose your money at the enormous casino. Mountainous Sintra, with its famous Palace, castle, villas, gardens and luxuriant forest is also just five kilometres away and there are a succession of wilder beaches and coves stretching north around the Atlantic coast from here.

This hotel is one of three in the same fine Albatroz stable. The Hotel Palace Albatroz, which stands behind this property, is even more sumptuous (the library suite here is beautiful) and shares the same facilities. The Estalagem Villa Albatroz is the slightly more modest hotel of the three, a five-minute walk away, close to the marina.

With only 53 rooms (including 10 suites) the Hotel Albatroz retains the feel of a small property, where the high ratio of staff to guest helps you feel you are being properly looked after. Cleverly, the Albatroz also feels roomy, urbane and definitively Portuguese.