Review of Le Royal Meridien Bristol Hotel, by Vitali Vitaliev

One of Europe's most renowned luxury hotels, the Bristol was opened in 1899 on the site of a demolished baroque palace on the fringes of Warsaw's Old Town. It soon became a familiar and popular landmark of the Polish capital, a favourite haunt of the rich and famous. It was the first dwelling in Warsaw to be equipped with central heating in the early 20th-century.

Having survived two world wars, the Bristol was subjected to barbaric redesign and utter neglect under the communists - to such an extent that it had to close down for restoration in the late eighties and was reopened in its present-day state by Poland's all-time heroine Margaret Thatcher in 1993.

Most of the hotel's original features, including the stunningly plush and spacious Column Bar in the lobby, and its art nouveau design have been meticulously preserved. The new speedy lifts were squeezed into their late 19th-century cages (this is probably why they sometimes malfunction).

One of Bristol's undisputed attractions is buffet breakfast in the Michelin-starred Malinowa (Raspberry) restaurant. The choice on offer is second to none in Poland and, possibly, in the whole of Central Europe: caviar, smoked fish, eggs cooked in every imaginable way, an array of mouth-watering desserts and much, much more. The main restaurant, somewhat misleadingly called Marconi, specialises in Mediterranean cuisine and has live music on Sundays.

Each of Bristol's 205 rooms is unique in its layout and design. Yet they are invariably comfortable and equipped with all necessary facilities (including walk-in wardrobes and a separate study in some business suites).

Almost all of the rooms have inspiring views of Old Town. The luxury hotel's most expensive Paderewski (or "Presidential") suite boasts paintings, fireplaces, period furniture and a secret room, from which one could (and still can) escape into the street unnoticed - a useful little feature if we remember the tempestuous history of the 20th-century Warsaw.

These days it can also prove useful for an accidental guest who has suddenly realised that he can't afford to pay his bill (over 2000 euros per night). The hasty escapee must be warned, however, not to fall into the trap of jumping into one of the hotel's own taxis waiting at the entrance, for they officially charge twice the sum shown on the metre.