Review of The Chedi, Muscat, by Harry Ring

Being constantly referred to as 'the best boutique hotel in Oman' could be something of a let-down when it transpires that the hotel in question is in fact the only boutique hotel in Oman. This lack of choice might concern style-conscious travellers who have ventured past Dubai's metropolitan mayhem into Oman. But who needs variety when the Chedi is this good?

The Chedi lies on a stretch of beach in the Muscat area - a loose term for the 30 km string of towns connected by the country's main motorway. The hotel itself is several kilometres from the motorway, so road noise is not a problem. Aerial noise however, is something to think about since the hotel is close to the airport, (Seeb International is not much as far as major hubs go, but enough to cause a few complaints). The beach here is more exposed than further down the coast, and there are no reefs to snorkel over. But did you really come to the Chedi to do something as hectic as that?

The hotel is certainly stylish. Emphasis throughout is on clean lines and rich, warm tones, rather than the ostentatious gilt you might have expected. The lobby is a cool and airy invention - a large courtyard, covered by a sweeping canvas canopy from which dozens of softly glowing lamps dangle serenely. Walk straight through and you are out into the grounds - very Zen; the cool sound of the exquisitely manicured water gardens almost takes the heat out of the desert air. Dotted about are the villas which contain the rooms and suites. The majority of the accommodation does not have a direct sea-view due to the long lawn leading to the beach, so if you get a suite, don't assume that you'll automatically get the view.

Of the two pools, the Serai pool is up by the main building and is a little bit of Beverly Hills bang on the Indian Ocean, all hanging white sheets and ultra-modern gazebos. The Chedi pool is down on the beach and is just as glam - even more so since this one is for adults only. Speaking of which, the Chedi generally does not really like to take kids, though they will at a push.

When night falls the atmosphere and pace adjust themselves again perfectly. A lot of thought has gone into the lighting here, and it pays off in spades. The lobby and outside spaces gradually fill up with guests and visitors - the fantastic restaurant is a deserved crowd-puller. The only bar is in the restaurant so it doesn't get rowdy, and unlike most hotels in Oman there is no nightclub at all. Whilst a few eyebrows may be raised at this decision, it has definitely kept in line with the unruffled composure of the Chedi, and in my opinion was a wise choice. Those wishing to burn the candle at both ends can head elsewhere.

At the weekend, a keen eye might spot a high proportion of Dubai and Abu Dhabi number-plates on the fleet of dazzling autos in the car park. If something is going to make a luxury-loving Emirati brave the infamous traffic and a 5 hour drive, then it must be pretty special.

The rooms

All suites feature a huge sunken terrazzo bathtub, a secluded patio and some pretty tasteful furnishings. A particularly useful feature is the complimentary decanters of vodka, gin, and whisky which are refilled as you drink them. (To someone who once went to extreme lengths to get a drink when was growing up in Oman, this was a heart-warming touch, which brought a nostalgic tear to my eye.) Suites are also supplied with two iPods, preloaded with 1500 tracks. That'll take your mind off those pesky aeroplanes.

Standard and deluxe rooms are fine - the main difference is room size, and both are big enough. Deluxe do have slightly better features, such as Bose sound systems, and are not that much more expensive so consider them!