Review of Kasbah du Toubkal, by Joanna Monkhouse

Kasbah du Toubkal has incredible views of the High Atlas mountains and the summit of Jebel Toubkal (4167m), the air is fresh and clean, the greenery is lush, the valley fertile, and the peaks spectacular. The 40 mile, hour and a half drive south from Marrakech is best done in a 4WD but can even be tackled by an old Renault 4.

Arriving at the touristy village of Imlil, the base for climbing Toubkal, is nothing new to anyone who has spent any time in Morocco, but once the mule has been summoned to take your bags, you see the Kasbah up on the hill and make the 10 minute climb up through the walnut grove, the hassle is left far behind.

The Kasbah was built in the 1940s as the summer home of Caid Souktani but it was abandoned in 1956 when Morocco gained its independence and the Glaoui tribe lost power. It has been carefully and traditionally restored by Discover Ltd, the British owners, now under French/Berber management. There was no electricity until 1997 so the renovations were all done by hand, which makes the achievement even more remarkable.

The Kasbah is run on ecological principles, collecting trash from local Berber villages, recycling, filtering spring water rather than using bottled water and encouraging responsible tourism that respects rather than destroys the local cultures, habitat and population, for which they have won the Green Globe Award for sustainable tourism and in November 2002 won a Highly Commended British Airways Tourism for Tomorrow Award.

The carpet-strewn terrace has stunning views on all sides of the mountains and the Berber hamlets across the valley, a perfect setting in which to relax. Trekking is the most popular pastime here and many trips of varying length and difficulty, on foot or mule, can be organised through the Kasbah. However, if the mere thought of that is too exhausting, there are two giant chess sets laid out on another level of the terrace, and two traditional hammans where you can soak and steam yourself after your strenuous activities.

The candle-lit dining room is cocoon-like, serving delicious, traditional food (and tarte aux pommes!), freshly prepared to order in the kitchens, where guests are welcome to learn about the local cuisine. The Berber staff at Kasbah du Toubkal have invaluable local knowledge of the region and are friendly and helpful. The ensuite rooms are rustically luxurious - traditional decoration using natural materials and locally handcrafted furniture, tadelakt shower or bathrooms, with modern conveniences such as a cd player in each room and, of course, the fantastic views. The three Berber salons accommodate visitors in a simpler style. There are also multimedia conference facilities for 60.

The garden house caters for those looking for a bit more luxury - the large salon has breathtaking panoramic views from the two glass walls, looking out over the valley. There is a selection of board games and a wood burning stove ensuring ultimate comfort and relaxation after a long day's trekking. There is also a kitchen if you want to self-cater - but with food this good you'd be mad not to eat it at every opportunity!

In 1996, the Kasbah was taken over for a month and transformed into a Tibetan monastery for Martin Scorcese's film Kundun. Although it is more expensive than most other auberges, and there is no pool here, Kasbah du Toubkal is unique - the outstanding beauty of its setting, the warm Berber welcome, and the experience of staying in this mountain refuge is one that will stay with you for a long time.