Review of Madada Mogador, by The TI Review Team

By TI reviewer Tim Harding

At the top of a mysterious dusty staircase in the old town, and unknown to the general populace of the city (including taxi drivers), lies Madada Mogador, Essaouira’s finest boutique hotel.

The doorbell rang with the sound of birdsong, and then we were welcomed by Christelle and her friendly, helpful team into the cool, tall spaces of the hotel. The building itself is over two hundred years old, but the six year-old Madada has achieved a stylish balance of old and new. The communal area is lightly scented with amber musk from the spice market and makes a peaceful, uncluttered retreat from the tight, colourful corridors of the medina.

Above the foyer is the Madada’s rooftop terrace, offering what I suspect to be the best view in the city. From our breakfast table, we were treated to a panorama of the beach, the ships in the bay and the old marina, where fresh fish is transferred straight from the boats to the hands of the chefs in the waterside restaurants.

Behind us, Essaouira’s old town made for an exotic two-day break. An ancient walled merchant city, Essaouira is unusually relaxed for a Moroccan tourist destination. From Madada we could walk anywhere within ten minutes, through long alleyways filled with fabrics, spices and food. Restaurants range from idiosyncratic local parlours to unusually stylish efforts combining Moroccan cuisine with all the disparate influences picked up over hundreds of years as a busy port.

Madada’s terrace is certainly its most striking feature. We were lured there with freshly-squeezed orange juice as soon as we arrived, and spent much of our subsequent time there. Breakfast was fresh fruit, vanilla yoghurt, toast and Moroccan pancakes with honey, as well as some great coffee for those who have a taste for it.

Other culinary delights occur a few storeys below. The l’Atelier Madada is a unique cookery workshop affiliated with the hotel, and offers entertaining and delicious classes in creating Moroccan cuisine and French pastries, as well as fascinating tours of the souk. It’s also imperative to visit a hamam (Moroccan sauna/massage parlour) before you leave. Trust in Christelle to arrange it all.

Madada’s seven rooms are elegant, in a minimal, chic style. The dark wood furnishings and sandy stone walls are a comfort to the eyes after a day spent swimming in Morocco’s sun and colour. While our room was not especially large, the huge stone bathtub was a delight, as was the incense (but don’t let the oil burn! It stings!). Pretty much all the rooms have direct access to some sort of balcony or terrace, but the ones on the top floor have the views to remember.