Review of The Merrion, by Rory MacLean

The Merrion brings to mind not so much a private house as a noble estate in the centre of Dublin. Despite all appearances to the contrary, the luxury hotel is a relative newcomer. Created only a decade ago from four neglected 18th-century townhouses, The Merrion initially gives an impression of old world elegance: a neo-classical staircase sweeps into the reception area, the drawing rooms are furnished with deep button-back chairs and fine antiques, the air is fragrant with the scent of peat smoke, high Georgian windows open onto the enclosed, formal gardens.

The facilities

But there's nothing stuffy about this elegant and luxurious establishment. The public rooms are open and airy, filled with laughter and a remarkable, private contemporary art collection. The staff are unerringly pleasant, helpful and good humoured. Downstairs the Tethra Spa - with 18 metre swimming pool, steam room, gym and treatment rooms - is without doubt the finest health club in Ireland. It's no wonder that The Merrion continues to reap so many top travel awards.

Dublin's only two-star Michelin restaurant is the Patrick Guilbaud, situated in this luxury hotel and overlooking its delightful gardens: highly recommended is the lobster ravioli, Wicklow lamb and wild seabass with asparagus salad and truffle sauce. In summer half-lobsters are barbecued in the garden.

For more traditional fare, nothing beats The Merrion's sensational fish and chips - cooked in tempura batter, served with crisp, fat chips and with mushy peas - in the Cellar Restaurant. The Cellar is especially popular with residents and locals for Sunday brunch: eggs Benedict with Irish bacon, Bluebell Falls goat's cheese with garlic confit, Irish smoked salmon and mountains of creamy scrambled eggs. Go for it, and forget about your waistline.

The rooms:

None of The Merrion's 122 rooms and 20 suites are exactly the same. The desire to preserve the buildings' integrity - and to conform with planning constraints - forced architect and designer alike to use their imaginations. The result is accommodation of distinct individuality. The large, open suites on the first floor of the main house - especially Suite 182 -- boast breathtakingly high Rococo ceilings and views of Ireland's parliament - the Dail - across the road.

The Packenham Suite has its own minstrel gallery. Proportions feel generous throughout, even in the more modern Garden Wing. Air conditioning, high speed internet access and plasma screen televisions are standard, as are bedside Bose WAVE CD players. Beds are as wide as the Liffey. Bathrooms are finished in Carrara marble with power showers and/or bath (depending on category). The Penthouse occupies 2,800 square feet over two floors with a roof terrace and cedarwood hot tub.