Review of Amanjiwo, by John Borthwick

If tourism is the secular religion of today, then the impeccable Amanjiwo resort is a temple. Gazing directly across the Central Javanese plain to the 9th century temple of Borobudur, Amanjiwo’s architecture pays perfect homage to that great Buddhist shrine. Around them both is rural Indonesia at its loveliest.

Amanjiwo is an easy hop-step from Denpasar, Bali: one hour by plane west to Yogyakarta then another hour — 40 km — by car. Or a short flight from Jakarta. Either way you arrive at Amanjiwo’s bell-shaped, sandstone rotunda to be greeted by an extraordinary view. Architect Ed Tuttle designed the arrival perspective so that one looks directly through the main building to view, four kilometres away, Borobudur perfectly framed in that portal. As if that weren’t enough, young Javanese girls in traditional sarongs dance in silhouette in the doorway before tossing a shower of fresh rose petals in your path.

Such an arrival might be hard act to follow, but with Aman’s customary élan, all else thereafter at Amanjiwo befits the occasion and the place. The temple-like architecture in blond stone is warm, not intimidating and there’s an intimacy to the bar, the colonnaded dining room and library that almost melts the building’s formal lines. Eventually, you retreat to a great, spacious suite – there are 34 of them — with tasteful artworks and an acre-sized bed. Look out past your private pool, and there are paddy views leading the eye towards the World Heritage temple and the distant volcanic peaks of mounts Merapi and Merbabu.

At some time in your room, be sure to request the resort’s healing pijat massage, a Javanese traditional technique that is therapeutic rather than merely a back rub. This deep massage, — not just a soft, pampering stroke — is done by older, local healers, considered to have “the gift” and is a real privilege.

Hedonism comes next, of course. Excellent dining in Western, Javanese or other tastes is a given. A plus is that the dining room and the terrace look out across the plain and tree tops to Borobudur that sits on a hill looking straight back at Amanjiwo. A really well stocked library (with internet access), a quality gift shop, spa and huge pool are some of the resort’s other pleasures. And then there are your daily excursions into the local villages (by horse-drawn cart, should you wish) and of course to the magnificently restored Borobudur.