Review of Amankila, by Caroline Major

Action, adventure and culture, or simple relaxation, sums up Amankila. An hour and a half away from the crowds, this gem of a luxury hotel nestles into the steep contours of the coastline in front of the mythical Mount Agung, Balis' tallest and most sacred volcano.

From anywhere in the hotel you can hear the sea crashing against the shore - bringing warm waters, plenty of fish and opportunities for leisure. A small fleet of catamarans and kayaks, along with the Aman XII, the Balinese Outrigger, and Aman VI, a powerful cruiser, stand by waiting to whisk you away for a morning or an afternoon fishing, snorkeling, diving , swimming, sailing or just cruising the coast enjoying a picnic.

Wicker baskets full of seductive goodies appear. Triple chocolate brownies, tropical fruits, homemade bread with salads and grilled vegetables unpack into a stylish display all served up with mint tonic, ginger tea and kopi bali. Order champagne if you're spending a relaxed day.

Back at the hotel, iridescent insects big and green or cobalt blue buzz around trying to escape the birds and geckos for whom they are dinner. Like the guests, they are attracted by the tall stands of coconut grovesminimalist swimming pools.

The villas are connected by Escher-esque walkways intercepting each other at different levels - each one with a fabulous view of mountain or sea. Whether you opt for an action holiday or simple relaxing it's hard not to feel that you don't want to leave when the time comes.